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I suggest you go to retrofitsource.com and purchase the 5k bulbs. I basically used two manufacturers (the above for the ballast) and (retrofit for the bulbs).
It's fairly easy plug and play and you just remove the headlight and the metal piece on the plug in and squeeze it on the bulb from retrofit source and replace back in the housing and stuff the ballast and wires into the headlight housing and close it up. The install literally will take you maybe 40 mins total from start to finish.
Hi, sorry I haven't been on here in a while. They work great with the Hylux Ballast and the Retrofit Source HID bulbs. Occasionally I will get the flicker but it is exclusively during dusk when my headlights are on and my interior lights aren't on. It has happened maybe 10 times since the install. So in reality I think it's pretty good.
This is a fantastic thread. I've decided to change my lights as well. Having halogen lights on a GL looks odd at best. I took this car to a shop to install the HID and it flickered nonstop. I'ved decided to give this a shot by ordering parts (or at least similar ones) mentioned on this thread. A couple of questions:
You're better off with a complete kit. I know if you mix the Morimoto bulbs with an off brand HID conversion kit, Morimoto won't honor the warranty.
Although more expensive than cheaper kits, Morimoto Elite XB kits really are worth it and will work without issue for your GL.
We're also authorized first line distributors for Morimoto so hit us up if you have any questions. We chose to distribute for them because of their reputation, quality, and reliability.
Thanks, AZN Optics. I don't mind paying a premium but want to ensure I get something that is viable. Unless I misunderstood Mstyle76, he couldn't get the Morimoto kit to work. Are you referring to a different kit?
Thanks, AZN Optics. I don't mind paying a premium but want to ensure I get something that is viable. Unless I misunderstood Mstyle76, he couldn't get the Morimoto kit to work. Are you referring to a different kit?
Morimoto has since released their Capacitor Links which they tell me will resolve the flickering issue on vehicles with pulse headlight circuits.
Thanks for the info! Has others successfully installed this setup for the 2013 or later GL?
Can you please post links of what I would need to purchase from your website? I'm aiming for an oem look?
So that's the catch. I have not personally confirmed these work on 2013+ GL as I haven't had an opportunity to outfit that year/model with the kit yet, but Morimoto told me that it does work with the new capacitors. Let me dig a bit with them to see if they'll share with me customer list and possible pictures confirming it works.
I can confirm the Morimoto XB35 kit works fine, installed it on my 2013 GL450 with no issues. You will NOT need the capacitor link. Got my HID kit from retrofitsource.
Here is the response regarding the capacitor link from RS:
Hey, It thankfully doesn't mean that yours would flicker without, it's just used to help cars with a pulsed DRL. Here's more info on that http://www.theretrofitsource.com/com...l#.VigGcfmrSUk Since your car should have a bulb out warning, you'd need the Canbus harness, but the Capacitor Link isn't needed or compatible with the Canbus harnesses. Have a great week and just let us know if you have any other questions at all, Charlie @ TRS
Morimoto response was that for the most part, just the canbus harness is fine, but there are some 2013+ MBs that have finicky wiring and will have this type of issue. What we can do for you is try out the kit and if your specific vehicle has no issue, you're good. If it does exhibit the issues mentioned, then we can try a capacitor or just process a return/refund.
Btw, cchintx, why did you order the 35w ballast as oppose to the 50w? Based on the thread, it seems like people prefer the 35w. Isn't the performance of the 50w better? According to TRS, both ballast wattage works.
Btw, cchintx, why did you order the 35w ballast as oppose to the 50w? Based on the thread, it seems like people prefer the 35w. Isn't the performance of the 50w better? According to TRS, both ballast wattage works.
Thanks,
Kai
35w has more longevity, burning cooler than 50w kit which is only slightly brighter.
Just an update with my Morimoto install, this happens only when it rains.
Every time I tap the brakes, the passenger side headlight turns off for about 3-4 seconds and comes on again.
Just an update with my Morimoto install, this happens only when it rains.
Every time I tap the brakes, the passenger side headlight turns off for about 3-4 seconds and comes on again.
Now the troubleshooting fun begins.
That's odd.... brakes should have nothing to do with your lights, but maybe you have a loose connection and the physical act of braking causes a power interruption. That'd be the only thing I can think of.
That's odd.... brakes should have nothing to do with your lights, but maybe you have a loose connection and the physical act of braking causes a power interruption. That'd be the only thing I can think of.
Thanks for the tip, hope I can resolve this issue quickly.
I ordered the Morimoto kit from Michael of AZN Optics. I should receive this tomorrow and I intend to install this Saturday morning. I'll report back on my progress/experience.
I installed the HID on the driver side this past weekend. I removed the ring from the halogen light and added it to the HID bulb but it won't close properly. Because of this, I had a hard getting the bulb into position mostly due to the tight work space. So far so good but I noticed that there's a comma shaped shadow of the light output. Is this normal? Also, people complain that the light is pointed too low to the ground. Is there a way to point the light higher? And if so, what's a good gauge of how high it should be pointed? Thanks!
Notice the comma shaped shadow...
Also, I'm installing the light on the passenger side tomorrow. I'll keep you posted on how it turns out.
I just finished installing HID lights on the passenger side and I see the same shadow.
What would cause this? Shouldn't there be no shadows and complete saturation of light?
Same shadow on both sides
I had the same issue when I tried to install HIDs. The bulb has to be positioned correctly inside the housing. You should try turning the bulb (probably 180 degrees).
Also, I had to use rubber washers to hold the bulb in securely (since the clip doesn't seem to work with the HID bulb). This might be the reason why it is pointing down...
Installing it with the metal washers was such a pain. What rubber washer did you use? And aren't you concerned that it will melt. When I installed the bulb, I start by pointing the electrode towards the ground and then we turn clockwise by ~90 degrees after inserting it into the setting.
Another issue I encountered today is when I had the light setting on "Auto" at dawn I received the error message "Check Left Low Beam" and when I get out of the car, the driver side light is out. Toggling between Off, On and Auto didn't help. When I drove later when it was darker, it was fine even on Auto. Why would this be the case? Thank you!
Installing it with the metal washers was such a pain. What rubber washer did you use? And aren't you concerned that it will melt. When I installed the bulb, I start by pointing the electrode towards the ground and then we turn clockwise by ~90 degrees after inserting it into the setting.
Another issue I encountered today is when I had the light setting on "Auto" at dawn I received the error message "Check Left Low Beam" and when I get out of the car, the driver side light is out. Toggling between Off, On and Auto didn't help. When I drove later when it was darker, it was fine even on Auto. Why would this be the case? Thank you!
I picked up some high quality rubber washers from Ace Hardware. They were a little big for the housing (so I had to trim them to fit properly). I have been using them for ~6 months and haven't run into any issues so far.
I think the "Check Left Low Beam" may be caused by the ballast you are using. I used the http://www.ebay.com/itm/MTEC-XENON-HID-CONVERSION-KIT-FOR-MERCEDES-BENZ-X164-GL320-2007-2009-GL-/380447283984?hash=item58946cdb10 It costs more, but it is guaranteed to not give you the low beam error. I only wish they made one for the X166 so we didn't have to use the washers...
Just reporting back out with the progress. So the current setup I have with the eBay ballast and the Retrofit Bulbs has been working great. The ONLY time it goes out or has any issues is at "dusk" or low sunlight (i.e. going through a tunnel the first few seconds, raining out - wipers on, dusk while hitting the brake hard). That happens maybe like 5-10% of the time, it's not always. It's almost so odd that it is somewhat connected when using my brake and when it is dusk only. You can tell when it might happen when the dash lights haven't turned on but the headlights turned on. What I do so it does not flicker is softly hit the brakes when coming to a stop during dusk. 100% of the time the light goes back on immediately when I hit the gas or depress the brakes, I never have to do anything to it to make it go back on except wait a few seconds.
When the lights are on and it is dark out it works 100% of the time and never has any issues with flickering.
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