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Installed Sprint Booster and certainly improves response for the gas pedal. Install was simple and I leave is set to Race setting 3, any higher and the pedal is very touchy. No power gained but response of the pedal again greatly improved. Photos show connection in car but excluded the included instructions which just tell you to lock car for 10min then work on the car and how to set the various modes.
How To:
Find pedal connector under the dash
Remove these 3 Torx 20 screws and remove panel.
**Note the foot air vents are connected in an odd manner to this panel and the vent opening does have a temp sensor in it.
Disconnect the connector and plug the Sprint Booster inline.
Connect all panels back together. Start car and ensure no codes thrown. Set the mode and setting on Sprint Boost controller. ENJOY!!
Got my cup holders for $100 shipped on eBay. Friend is sourcing me the harness from the factory and will come install all for me in the next few weeks. In the meantime here are some pics and details on how to swap the rollback cover. Buy any set you need and swap over existing rollback cover.
Cover removed and before wrapped in black vinyl to match my earlier wrapping of the interior.
To remove the roll back cover simply pull towards you the "plastic stopper" in front of the rollback at the front of the unit. This will pop off and allow you to slide the cover right on out. Slide in the needed cover, snap back in the stopper and done.
Battery under the front pass seat
Remove cover(s)
Amp was mounted in the pass side 2nd row seat. I had a larger amp but limited on space to easily hide. This is powerful enough and stays well out of the way.
Most importantly you can still move the 2nd row seat and have access to rear with no issues and looks like a factory wire loom setup.
Amp gets radio leads from the factory sub, I think is an amplified signal as I have to have the bass on Comand set to -6 to avoid it being too punchy, which takes out some mid. I have an amp bass control know which I will install and run once I remove the center console to do the cup holders.
Hard to see but wires run back to amp which was easy to do so I was told.
Sub in the rear.
Last edited by black06c230; Feb 26, 2018 at 08:55 PM.
As my buddy is always quick to tear the car down I didn't get pics of all the screws but the PDF diagram attached shows them just fine I think.
Out of the car and taking it apart, again he did this pretty quickly. Certainly helps when you buddy builds them at the factory and can do this pit stop style.
Checking the wires to the diagram to re-pin.
All done!!!
Wiring diagram. I didn't take the pics of the exact wire as he did it but you can use the below to create and pin the existing harness to save on the new harness if desired. I think he wants to clean up a few things so I might get a chance to get some detailed pics of the re-wired/pinned harness.
Super fancy MB crimping tool. Yep I had this installed literally professionally by a the same man who likely built it in 2012 using Benz tools, at HOME!!
So back a month ago had a minor 3 car accident on 4-20. No real injuries just soreness. Front car stopped for a school bus they didn't need to stop for, middle car had stopped traffic in his lane and made a lane change to our lane but the front car was stopped for the bus, course we see the front car stopped and are braking but middle car now suddenly appears. Hit the middle car and pushed him into the front car. Police found the middle driver at fault for an improper lane change. Now there is a battle with the middle driver's insurance company saying the officer made a false statement?!?!? Anyway we have our company handling the claim to get repairs done and not have to wait or anything else. The repair shop is Classic Car Motoring, a shop that does custom work for the Benz factory and paints all of Benz's show cars. They are the only Benz authorized repair center in Alabama, needless to say the insurance companies aren't a fan of the labor rate. I however see it as not my fault and we didn't cause the accident so we want what Benz approves of. Really just need bumper, headlight, fender, repair 3 wheels, replace 1 tire, repaint hood as there is a crack in the paint, and blend it all back in. Total cost is about $13k.
While there they will also be doing the calipers in red and welding up my electric exhaust cutouts!!! Can't wait to have it back and those mods too!!!
At repair shop stripped down.
Last edited by black06c230; May 20, 2018 at 10:45 PM.
I have almost exact same vehicle. I had the dealer fit the pins as they did it foc. But they claimed the back ones couldnt be done. Did you manage to do back ones as well?
I have almost exact same vehicle. I had the dealer fit the pins as they did it foc. But they claimed the back ones couldnt be done. Did you manage to do back ones as well?
yes the back are done too. Car should be back in about 2 weeks so can get pics then if needed.
Battery under the front pass seat
Remove cover(s)
Amp was mounted in the pass side 2nd row seat. I had a larger amp but limited on space to easily hide. This is powerful enough and stays well out of the way.
Most importantly you can still move the 2nd row seat and have access to rear with no issues and looks like a factory wire loom setup.
Amp gets radio leads from the factory sub, I think is an amplified signal as I have to have the bass on Comand set to -6 to avoid it being too punchy, which takes out some mid. I have an amp bass control know which I will install and run once I remove the center console to do the cup holders.
Hard to see but wires run back to amp which was easy to do so I was told.
Sub in the rear.
I have the same amp and sub in my CLS63 but for some reason it dont slap that hard what do you have your gain set at? have you ever conisdered wiring in a DSP or anything?
It was easier to get wire in the bass controll knob to control the sub when the center console was pulled doing the cup holders.
Side note it has been nearly 3 months since the accident and the car still isn’t back.
Long story short:
parts delays
put car back together
try to align find suspension damage
wait for adjuster and more parts
tear down what was just done and drop motor to replace enngjne cradle
At a current total of just over $20k. I am told we are getting it back tomorrow 7-19 and will have pics/vid showing repairs, red calipers and exhaust cutouts. The repair place is like a country retreat for Benz and other exotics.
So today was supposed to be the day but they found a problem with the steering rack. So now back to waiting for more repairs. So 7-20 is the 3mth mark, never thought it would take this long. Only plus is the shop is finding the issues before giving back which helps from not having to issue come up after repairs are done and paid for. Feel like would have to fight insurance comp to get it covered under the accident claim after pickup.
I forgot we also have the dash cam to install and going to order the car play box and install. Will detail all once the car is back.
Small update. We still don’t have the GL back. After all the above it was found that transfer case mounts were sheared off and the motor mount on the driver side was also damaged. When starting to work on the motor mount oil began coming out and it was realized there was a hole in the oil pan. Best guess is from the AC compressor flexing in the crash and putting a hole from a screw in it. So back to waiting on parts. Will also need to ensure find the metal chunk in the oil pan. If not I will press to either have a 1 year coverage on any motor issues or request they total the car at this point.
We are up to about $30k in repairs and We have spent $12k out of pocket on rentals which are to be reimbursed. Fun times. Hope to have it back in 2 weeks. While a pain glad the shop is finding these issues beforehand so there is no dispute in the crash as the cause. Plus at this point it would have been totaled out had they know of all these issues.
Roughly 30mph and breaking so less than that at impact. The theory is it hit just right and by leverage cause lots to flex and get bent and moved. It only looked like a fender, headlight and bumper. No damage to hood at all. Heck it didn’t even impact the trunk lid on the Civic we hit.
Hope it gets fixed quickly and turns out ok. Looks great but quick question. Why not a set of custom wheels? Seems a lot of work to stay stock. Some Vossens or find a deal on some Brabus wheels. Looks awesome, not bashing. Just wondering.
I like the AMGs for th GL plus it’s the GFs car and she is known to be rough on wheels. So got larger size reps in black to save the $$$ stock ones and cheaper to avoid damaging Vossens or other brands.
Small update is the oil pan that came in was the wrong one so now waiting again. Told the famous line of next week. That next week will mark 5mths since the accident. 😔
But they are gonna hook me up on all the extra custom stuff being done like the red calipers, exhaust cutouts, and paint rear chrome tailgate trim to match the body.
Have to swap out rentals yet again think to swap out the Rover Sport from this past month to a C63!!!
Latest update is car is back together half 5.5 months and today was to be pick up day. But after a test drive earlier in the day the front left suspension would drop after 5min and now won’t inflate back up. No signs of leaks in lines so will be loaded up on the glass transport truck and taken to dealership on Monday.
Lowred on links as seen in build but not thought to be an issue as it’s been fine on other short test drives. The one today was a 70mi test drive. Suggestions?!?
almost ready but then gives us the finger. Like it doesn’t want to leave the country club retreat there or has PTSD and doesn’t wanna get on the toad again!!!
Transport truck is nice.
Last edited by black06c230; Oct 5, 2018 at 11:15 PM.
Back from dealer from fixing the magical new suspension sagging. They did some software refresh and seems to have solved the problem I was told so we will see. Now still have to finish last few items from the accident and fingers crossed no more issues pop up when close to pick up.
Installed Sprint Booster and certainly improves response for the gas pedal. Install was simple and I leave is set to Race setting 3, any higher and the pedal is very touchy. No power gained but response of the pedal again greatly improved. Photos show connection in car but excluded the included instructions which just tell you to lock car for 10min then work on the car and how to set the various modes.
How To:
Find pedal connector under the dash
Remove these 3 Torx 20 screws and remove panel.
**Note the foot air vents are connected in an odd manner to this panel and the vent opening does have a temp sensor in it.
Disconnect the connector and plug the Sprint Booster inline.
Connect all panels back together. Start car and ensure no codes thrown. Set the mode and setting on Sprint Boost controller. ENJOY!!
So, how are your final thoughts on the Sprint Booster? You'd do it again?
I'm a dealer for them, and haven't even thought of offering them for this yet....
So, how are your final thoughts on the Sprint Booster? You'd do it again?
I'm a dealer for them, and haven't even thought of offering them for this yet....
Love it. Makes the throttle respond so much quicker. We tend to keep it on race setting 3 I think. Been so long since we drove it. I know higher than that and it becomes very touchy.
Car still not back but almost ready in the meantime I had them paint the rear chrome lift gate strip body body. Also a the rear star painted gloss black. The exhaust cutouts are also done. Will post up vids of the cutouts and pics next week. Have a few vids of the cutouts but don’t think they are that great.
I love your truck. How come you left some of the chrome and blacked out some? I am looking to do the exact same build with a few other touches. The chrome on the step and one the back is what I am worried about. and what about the rails on top? Can they come off? I have a 450 now and am going to get a 550 in a few months.
Would the sprint booster work with an ECU upgrade?
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