My 2015 Gl350
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2015 GL350
My 2015 Gl350
Hey guys like to introduce myself I just purchased a 2015 GL350 cpo with 23,000 miles on it. I traded in my 2010 ML350 bluetec with 60,000 miles on it. Acessory codes are 151, 258, dsl, po1, r55, 319, 399, 401, 413, 443, 550, 581, 729, 810, 843, 846, 848, 864, 996, 997. The ML was a blast and the only reason for trading it in after 8 years of ownership is the family wanted a bigger Suv. We test drove pretty much all the suv that where in are price range and decided to stay with our Benz. I own a couple of Volvo V70r and a 99 yamaha R1 with like 4,000 miles on it. I take car of my cars the best i can and truly believe in the doing the maintenance way before Mercedes suggested intervals. Anyway I hope to learn more and enjoy the new community I will post pics up soon.
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2015 GL350
Brought the car in for new air filters and new fuel filter today. Asked my service rep to check and see if any updates need to be instasled(they do)and to put in the newest navigation software(v9).
funny how a cpo car doesn't have this all installed already.
Ill be doing the oil myself within the next 500 miles.
funny how a cpo car doesn't have this all installed already.
Ill be doing the oil myself within the next 500 miles.
Last edited by ooklaa65; 03-05-2018 at 11:45 PM.
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2015 S550
The Mercedes Bluetec motors are friggin nightmares if you follow the regular recommended maintenance schedule and use the recommended oil. They are renowned for their oil sludge and massive soot clogging of the intakes and ports.
You need to read this article in its entirety. You may be able to lessen the nightmares if you follow this guy's advice about maintenance and oil. http://www.stephensservice.com/bluet...ssuesproblems/
You need to read this article in its entirety. You may be able to lessen the nightmares if you follow this guy's advice about maintenance and oil. http://www.stephensservice.com/bluet...ssuesproblems/
#10
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I have 2013 GL350. That article sounds really concerning. I feel like to purchase an oil extract pump and change oil every so a few thousand miles. Even the extended limited warranty was a few thousand more than the gas model. I love the torque, and it hardly ever downshift. Probably, I won't get a diesel model next time though.
![Frown](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
#11
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It likely affects all of them. I know I'd never buy one of those Bluetecs used. Fortunately for the OP he purchased a fairly low mileage example and can slow down the damage by following the article's advice regarding oil, change intervals, and air filters. But none of that is going to fix the problems of soot building up in the ports. It sounds like the EPA ensured that these motors are doomed for failure. And people wonder why diesels do not have nearly the popularity here that they have in Europe.
#12
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In fact, I did have my first orange check engine light around 60K miles. It turned out to be a sensor down the exhaust area somewhere. I believe there was a soot build up around the sensor. ELW covered and MB changed the sensor.
#13
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It likely affects all of them. I know I'd never buy one of those Bluetecs used. Fortunately for the OP he purchased a fairly low mileage example and can slow down the damage by following the article's advice regarding oil, change intervals, and air filters. But none of that is going to fix the problems of soot building up in the ports. It sounds like the EPA ensured that these motors are doomed for failure. And people wonder why diesels do not have nearly the popularity here that they have in Europe.
#15
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Brought the car in for new air filters and new fuel filter today. Asked my service rep to check and see if any updates need to be instasled(they do)and to put in the newest navigation software(v9).
funny how a cpo car doesn't have this all installed already.
Ill be doing the oil myself within the next 500 miles.
funny how a cpo car doesn't have this all installed already.
Ill be doing the oil myself within the next 500 miles.
since you're on the forum, I hope you know that CPO extension usually comes much cheaper when purchased from one of the Discounters often posted about here.
Also, if they sold you on a tire wheel package and you can still cancel it, contact me by PM immediately. It'll be worth your effort.
#16
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CPO is about marketing and not assurance that the dealer actually did that they were supposed to do. As consumers, we remain responsible for protecting our own asses. When I bought my CPO GL, I need a list of items that I wanted to be sure got done and I received service receipts for things like all the filters, wipers, brake fluid flush and transmission flush. I already saw that it had a recent oil change from the VMI. While the price of my vehicle was pretty much firm after my first round of negotiations, I was then able to negotiate in the value of all the service. Because the retail price of Mercedes dealership service is so far in excess of their actual hard costs to perform it, the general manager of the store pretty readily agreed to do this bit of labor and throw in those parts. The point here is that none of these maintenance items would have been done, just like in your case, CPO or not.
since you're on the forum, I hope you know that CPO extension usually comes much cheaper when purchased from one of the Discounters often posted about here.
Also, if they sold you on a tire wheel package and you can still cancel it, contact me by PM immediately. It'll be worth your effort.
since you're on the forum, I hope you know that CPO extension usually comes much cheaper when purchased from one of the Discounters often posted about here.
Also, if they sold you on a tire wheel package and you can still cancel it, contact me by PM immediately. It'll be worth your effort.
#17
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2015 GL350
I do my own maintenance, I do get busy and sometimes will pay for things to get done. I appreciate eveyones input and help but I know the car industry very well.. You can't always get the best prices on everything but starting with a sound vehicle is the beginning. I know all about how hot these cars run and I do my maintenace on my schedules not theirs. I looked at all my vehicles maintenance records and also had my car up on the lift and inspected the GL. Before I purchased my GL I new what the car needed. Unfortunately the mechanics work on flat rate and dont really give a crap. But you have to take the time to meet people so they do take car of your car.
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2015 GL350
Go to auto trader and you will see v6 blutec diesel engines with 180,000 miles for sale.
I love my Diesel and I know it will least my 10+ years with very minimal problems. The 8 years I owned my 2010 gl350 blutech I only had one problem with it and that was the urea heater went bad and this problem is well known threw out all new diesel cars not just mercedes. I bought the part online for and paid a mechanic on the side for a total of 1000 bucks. No other problems.
#20
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I look at it differently, I read this article a probably 5 years ago or more and in reality I did what he said on my own. Every car has its issues, if you change your oil every 4 thousand miles, air filters and fuel every 20,000, change all your tranny fluid, coolant, brake every 30,000 miles your taking out 95 percent of the problems related to this car. Now is takes more maintenance and money but anybody with a fuel version should be doing the same thing. I do this with all my volvo v70r I own.
Go to auto trader and you will see v6 blutec diesel engines with 180,000 miles for sale.
I love my Diesel and I know it will least my 10+ years with very minimal problems. The 8 years I owned my 2010 gl350 blutech I only had one problem with it and that was the urea heater went bad and this problem is well known threw out all new diesel cars not just mercedes. I bought the part online for and paid a mechanic on the side for a total of 1000 bucks. No other problems.
Go to auto trader and you will see v6 blutec diesel engines with 180,000 miles for sale.
I love my Diesel and I know it will least my 10+ years with very minimal problems. The 8 years I owned my 2010 gl350 blutech I only had one problem with it and that was the urea heater went bad and this problem is well known threw out all new diesel cars not just mercedes. I bought the part online for and paid a mechanic on the side for a total of 1000 bucks. No other problems.
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2014 GL350
I am original owner of a 2014 GL350 with approximatley 110K miles. All the maintenance work has been done at the dealership. I have had minor issues such as driver seat adjuster not working, vent registers breaking, and a broken center console storage bin door. All of which has been covered under an extended warranty. Other than that, the car has been solid and highly reliable. The engine has been/is strong. Perhaps the best SUV I have ever driven. My warranty is until 120K, so on the fence right now if I should keep the car longer than that or trade it in.
#22
My 2 cents, so long as you frequent the highway they are fine. It gives the DPF and EGR a chance to burn off the soot and prevent the sludge issues.
My Fiance drives our Gl350 2013, we have had it for about a year and added 10,000 miles, currently at 73,000. She takes short trips to work and around town, which is a problem as I found out. I had the evil oil cooler seal failure at 70,000 miles and while repairing that witnessed and cleaned up massive amounts of sludge in the intake tract and also downstream. I have all the records to prove the MB spec oil was used up till that point and that has nothing to do with it. Only way to fix these engines for long term reliability like the old days (300,000+ miles) is to delete all the e mission crap and that is working out very well now, while still driving the short commutes. I am running Mobil 10-40W diesel truck oil this go round and it has never ran better. Will be changing the oil again within the next 2000 miles to see how it is looking after doing all of the work. Also I had read 2013 models used the purple Viton oil cooler seals exclusively and this was not the case in my experience. When I pulled it off there they were, the dreaded red seals!. I believe I am an excellent mechanic, although fixing things is just a hobby. Easily the hardest repair, I have done. I thought I may never get it back together correctly, probably had 50 hours into it. But, once the HP fuel pump primed, she fired up and has been bone dry since.
Cliff Notes: Buy a Gasser next time and get the dang shop manual before you start to work on stuff
My Fiance drives our Gl350 2013, we have had it for about a year and added 10,000 miles, currently at 73,000. She takes short trips to work and around town, which is a problem as I found out. I had the evil oil cooler seal failure at 70,000 miles and while repairing that witnessed and cleaned up massive amounts of sludge in the intake tract and also downstream. I have all the records to prove the MB spec oil was used up till that point and that has nothing to do with it. Only way to fix these engines for long term reliability like the old days (300,000+ miles) is to delete all the e mission crap and that is working out very well now, while still driving the short commutes. I am running Mobil 10-40W diesel truck oil this go round and it has never ran better. Will be changing the oil again within the next 2000 miles to see how it is looking after doing all of the work. Also I had read 2013 models used the purple Viton oil cooler seals exclusively and this was not the case in my experience. When I pulled it off there they were, the dreaded red seals!. I believe I am an excellent mechanic, although fixing things is just a hobby. Easily the hardest repair, I have done. I thought I may never get it back together correctly, probably had 50 hours into it. But, once the HP fuel pump primed, she fired up and has been bone dry since.
Cliff Notes: Buy a Gasser next time and get the dang shop manual before you start to work on stuff
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#23
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2015 S550
My 2 cents, so long as you frequent the highway they are fine. It gives the DPF and EGR a chance to burn off the soot and prevent the sludge issues.
My Fiance drives our Gl350 2013, we have had it for about a year and added 10,000 miles, currently at 73,000. She takes short trips to work and around town, which is a problem as I found out. I had the evil oil cooler seal failure at 70,000 miles and while repairing that witnessed and cleaned up massive amounts of sludge in the intake tract and also downstream. I have all the records to prove the MB spec oil was used up till that point and that has nothing to do with it. Only way to fix these engines for long term reliability like the old days (300,000+ miles) is to delete all the e mission crap and that is working out very well now, while still driving the short commutes. I am running Mobil 10-40W diesel truck oil this go round and it has never ran better. Will be changing the oil again within the next 2000 miles to see how it is looking after doing all of the work. Also I had read 2013 models used the purple Viton oil cooler seals exclusively and this was not the case in my experience. When I pulled it off there they were, the dreaded red seals!. I believe I am an excellent mechanic, although fixing things is just a hobby. Easily the hardest repair, I have done. I thought I may never get it back together correctly, probably had 50 hours into it. But, once the HP fuel pump primed, she fired up and has been bone dry since.
Cliff Notes: Buy a Gasser next time and get the dang shop manual before you start to work on stuff![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
My Fiance drives our Gl350 2013, we have had it for about a year and added 10,000 miles, currently at 73,000. She takes short trips to work and around town, which is a problem as I found out. I had the evil oil cooler seal failure at 70,000 miles and while repairing that witnessed and cleaned up massive amounts of sludge in the intake tract and also downstream. I have all the records to prove the MB spec oil was used up till that point and that has nothing to do with it. Only way to fix these engines for long term reliability like the old days (300,000+ miles) is to delete all the e mission crap and that is working out very well now, while still driving the short commutes. I am running Mobil 10-40W diesel truck oil this go round and it has never ran better. Will be changing the oil again within the next 2000 miles to see how it is looking after doing all of the work. Also I had read 2013 models used the purple Viton oil cooler seals exclusively and this was not the case in my experience. When I pulled it off there they were, the dreaded red seals!. I believe I am an excellent mechanic, although fixing things is just a hobby. Easily the hardest repair, I have done. I thought I may never get it back together correctly, probably had 50 hours into it. But, once the HP fuel pump primed, she fired up and has been bone dry since.
Cliff Notes: Buy a Gasser next time and get the dang shop manual before you start to work on stuff
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
You might also want to try the recommended motorcycle oil. The turbos are a huge problem as the MB recommended oil can't handle the high heat that the motor and turbos generate....which destroys all of the protection that the oil is supposed to afford. If you have a warranty on your truck, be sure to get your service adviser on board so they don't put any notes in the system that could void your warranty due to not following mfr recommendations (which are crap).