If the sliding pins are not properly lubricated, pads will basically stuck to rotors and eat up the pads like a rubber eraser and lose MPG too. Also, rear pads can go out unevenly inner vs outer.

 

 

First, you are only seeing half of the pads. You're showing outers, remember there are inner pads.
Second, with the various functions related to safety and lane-keeping controlled by brake force, you will find rear pads wearing more and particularly the inners.
10000 is quick, though.

 

 

I'm not sure you're listening to the advice here. Rear brakes wear faster, and sometimes the inners wear more quickly than the outers on the rear. The wear sensor is embedded in the inner pad on one side. 10000 miles is not a long way to go before that happens, but so much depends upon your driving style in that fast, powerful very heavy machine, how often you trigger some of the safety mechanisms and that you also have cross drilled rotors which sometimes create more wear then do non drilled rotors. Certainly get another shop to do the brake job, you'll save money no matter how long the replacement set lasts. There's a trick with regard to the electronic parking brake, disabling it is something you can do on the menu just look it up on YouTube, you can also research it here.

 

 

It is not unusual for one to request visual verification on swapped out parts after basic maintenance like brakes even at the dealer FYI.

 

How does disabling the electronic parking brake decrease brake wear? The car isn't moving when applied.

 

Many manufacturers are using rear braking to decrease turning radius and improve handling. Laws of physics still exist no matter which car you drive.

 

How does disabling the electronic parking brake decrease brake wear?

oh my gosh, it has nothing to do with that. It has to do with a step required before you can remove the brake caliper in order to replace the pads. If you take it to an independent shop they need to either know how to do this from experience, or you need to do it for them using the car's menu system. There seems to be a little trick related to starting it back up, the same conditions have to apply as existed when turning it off. The car can't be running, for example, or it may not restore and then you'll be posting about the error message you have after your brake job.

 

X166 Owners. 2013 GL 450. I have a problem that is not normal brake wear. Front pads have 36k miles on them and look like they are less than 50% worn. 1st set of rear pads lasted 30k. Found OUTSIDE right rear passenger pad was down to metal. Wear sensor was mounted on INSIDE right rear passenger, inside pad was 60% worn while it's outside partner was down to metal. Replaced all rear pads and rotors (Textar OEM Pads, Zimmerman Rotors), all premium parts.

10k miles later, rear passenger OUTSIDE pad was toast again, down to metal. Inside pad 50%. I noticed the rear rotors are both nautically hotter than front pads after even 10 mile drive. I've read on this forum that the world of auto engineering have changed, and the rear now wears faster. Replaced pads AGAIN at 10k with clear uneven wear. Extra careful to clean calipers, caliper pins, boots, brackets, slide groves, and properly lubricate all with proper high quality brake part lubricant.

Decided to keep electronic parking brake DISENGAGED in case it was dragging on rotor. Noticed less heat on rotors, but still noticeably hotter than front. Engage parking brake and it's noticeably hotter.

Can be one of 4 things, or combo:

1) Both rear brake calipers sticking? Somehow passenger rear worse than driver rear, not sure why it would stick and wear outside, but not inside?

2) Brake hoses bad and not releasing back pressure to brake master cylinder, keeping brakes engaged/touching? Hoses 5 years old, fresh looking, proper shape and form, not collapsed or worn in any way. Applied pressure to rear brakes and released, then loosened brake bleed nipple, no high pressure spray or spurt typically means hoses no longer holding pressure - therefore not blocked.

3) The electronic parking brake is not fully releasing and is someone dragging/touching pad constantly? Again, why passenger outside pad getting eaten up? Does it use the passenger side exclusively? Again, noticed less heat on rear rotors with electronic brake completely disengaged, standard braking still works.

Any input welcome. I've been working on cars most of my life. I'm not Mercedes Certified for sure, but I fully understand how to use the electronic engage/disengage feature via onboard computer - in part thanks to contributors to this forum. I own two Mercs, a 2003 W211 185k, purchased new in Summer 2002, yes I've owned it for 16 years. And a 2013 GL 450 purchased as local Certified Preowned with 30k miles on lease turn-in.