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That is what I found, no more silitec using....I am not expert.. "The cast-aluminum block is a closed-deck design to provide the desired strength. A special Mercedes-developed process called Nanoslide coats the aluminum bore surfaces with a thin, porous coating of iron for improved wear resistance with minimal friction."
From what I've read, they have been using in AMG engines and the first was the M156 and the OM642. Seems they spray the iron with a twin arc sprayed coating. The articles I read say friction is reduced by 50% and it is more durable. With that said, I don't have or could not find any first hand evidence of the long term durability. There are still AMG engines with cylinder scoring and it seems to be about the same rate as before. With that said, my data is not really scientific but from reading these forums it does not seem any more durable than the Silitec or Alusil engines prior to the switch. Would be interested in some real data if anyone can find some.
Read the entire thread. It explains the issues and fixes. If it’s a valve issue, it will show up when you do a leak down test. If there is no leaking from valves, do a compression test and see if there is low compression on any of the cylinders. Most people have had the issue fixed by replacing a valve seal. Others, like me, have had much worse outcomes.
Originally Posted by afr0deezyak
i am havinig the same cyclinder 8 misfire issue.
i changed spark plugs, O2 sensors and coils, refuse to go away
A little off topic here, but earlier in this thread there were several mentions of a "cylinder #5 misfire," and advice to Google it.
I did, and for some quirk of fate, it seems to run rampant in many manufacturers' engines. BMW, Chevy, Ford, Dodge - the list goes on.
I know #5 is the left front cylinder, but why so many hits on Google?
I might pick up one of these 2014 GL450 at the auction. How can I tell if it has this issue. Currently no CEL. Do I just rev it up a bit and scan for codes shortly after?
So some of y’all said that you could drive for years with the cylinder 5 issue.
However most of you that post complaints or are experiencing issues state the vehicle will run rough and basically not move and have several issues with misfiring.
So how long could you drive on this problem?? I’m guessing you cannot?
It also seems like this issue seems a bit more common than what was said from MB about the faulty press being used.
How do I know this? I spent a few hours on cars.com looking at carfaxes for higher mileage m278/m157 vehicles and I would say I saw the “cylinder head removed compression checked....etc etc” a bunch of times. However I saw the engine wiring harness issue way more often than this. I also saw
a few old (12-14) m157 engines with over 200k miles. A few m278 ones as well.
I had the exact same problem at ~75K miles in 2019, MB dealer gave a $11000 estimate to fix one cylinder head, left side that was impacted. After screaming at both MB customer service and the dealer about the crap quality, they offered a 1500 discount, and MB added 1100 to that. Still I was over 8000. I was told that the engine head comes as a complete set, valve sleeves and seals are not separately available.
I took it to a local ex dealer mechanic's shop and he has a relationship with a NASCAR engine builder, who said they recognized the valves and seals to be from a Nissan engine. They were drop in replacement and fit. I got the left head fixed for about 3500 in parts and labor. The car just hit 100k miles. No more issues. But I suspect the other side is a ticking timebomb, it will fail one day and need a $3500 repair. But, at least I know what to do. Apparently this was a NISSAN designed or made engine. Which I wouldn't believe unless the mechanic who fixed it told me.
I think Class action lawsuit is absolutely needed. Find a lawyer, they owe me one head service and another replaced.
I had the exact same problem at ~75K miles in 2019, MB dealer gave a $11000 estimate to fix one cylinder head, left side that was impacted. After screaming at both MB customer service and the dealer about the crap quality, they offered a 1500 discount, and MB added 1100 to that. Still I was over 8000. I was told that the engine head comes as a complete set, valve sleeves and seals are not separately available.
I took it to a local ex dealer mechanic's shop and he has a relationship with a NASCAR engine builder, who said they recognized the valves and seals to be from a Nissan engine. They were drop in replacement and fit. I got the left head fixed for about 3500 in parts and labor. The car just hit 100k miles. No more issues. But I suspect the other side is a ticking timebomb, it will fail one day and need a $3500 repair. But, at least I know what to do. Apparently this was a NISSAN designed or made engine. Which I wouldn't believe unless the mechanic who fixed it told me.
So I'm looking at buying a 2014 GL450 and now I'm nervous about it after reading this thread...
The dealership is doing their inspection on it today because they just got it in on a trade.
I had Valvestud pull the datacard for the car and its attached.
Engine is 278928 30 205094
Would this one be affected?
Someone said this earlier:
Topic l101.30-P-061835 01.30 cylinder head M278 engine with numbers after 2789xx 30 128000
I am going through the same issue. Bought a used 2014 ML550 from the local Mercedes’ dealer. Brought it back the same day because it was shaking slightly at idle at red lights. 2 days later they tell me low compression on two cylinders and they are replacing the engine. I guess it shouldn’t have ever made it onto the dealer lot after it was traded in. I guess that’s why it was traded in. They are covering the whole bill but I bet it’s going to cost them a fortune. I’m lucky it’s getting done and they didn’t even bat an eye and told me they are taking care of it. Good dealership. I can’t wait to get it back. You guys say about 3 weeks to get it done? They haven’t told me a time line yet as this just happened the other day and they are sourcing all the parts.
Last edited by Doubleredrolex; Nov 23, 2021 at 02:49 AM.
No CEL, no codes (using Autel Maxisys Elite), and only slight shake at idle after warmup. However, pulled plug and borescoped cylinder #5 awhile back. Anyone want to know what scoring looks like..here are the pics. Couldn't be more clear that the previous owner neglected some oil changes or overheated this M278. I've been religious about oil changes and have never overheated it.
So, anyone have a used M157 or M278 block I can buy for a good price? I'm not too concerned about cylinder damage on the build block since I'll be building a stroked/sleeved M157/M278 with the stock M278 turbos. Will probably upgrade the exhaust and add a mild tune while continuing to run my 120k mile stock M278 until I swap the built engine over a long weekend.
Sorry to hear everyone else who's had to deal with this issue, especially on lower mileage GLs and GLS models. I guess I can count myself lucky that is still drives fine and has plenty of power at higher mileage Cylinder #5 intake side scoring Can you say "deep" scoring? Cylinder #5 intake side scoring
.
No CEL, no codes (using Autel Maxisys Elite), and only slight shake at idle after warmup. However, pulled plug and borescoped cylinder #5 awhile back. Anyone want to know what scoring looks like..here are the pics. Couldn't be more clear that the previous owner neglected some oil changes or overheated this M278. I've been religious about oil changes and have never overheated it.
So, anyone have a used M157 or M278 block I can buy for a good price? I'm not too concerned about cylinder damage on the build block since I'll be building a stroked/sleeved M157/M278 with the stock M278 turbos. Will probably upgrade the exhaust and add a mild tune while continuing to run my 120k mile stock M278 until I swap the built engine over a long weekend.
Sorry to hear everyone else who's had to deal with this issue, especially on lower mileage GLs and GLS models. I guess I can count myself lucky that is still drives fine and has plenty of power at higher mileage Cylinder #5 intake side scoring Can you say "deep" scoring? Cylinder #5 intake side scoring
.
Thanks, these are some of the clearest photos on this site for the scuffing phenomenon.
I am going through the same issue. Bought a used 2014 ML550 from the local Mercedes’ dealer. Brought it back the same day because it was shaking slightly at idle at red lights. 2 days later they tell me low compression on two cylinders and they are replacing the engine. I guess it shouldn’t have ever made it onto the dealer lot after it was traded in. I guess that’s why it was traded in. They are covering the whole bill but I bet it’s going to cost them a fortune. I’m lucky it’s getting done and they didn’t even bat an eye and told me they are taking care of it. Good dealership. I can’t wait to get it back. You guys say about 3 weeks to get it done? They haven’t told me a time line yet as this just happened the other day and they are sourcing all the parts.
when the Mercedes dealer is doing the work under warranty I would never allow them to install an engine from a junk yard. You will probably just get another one with the same issues. If you had to pay for it yourself then yes it might be worth the gamble. If I was doing the work I would just take the heads off and bring them to a machine shop for rebuild.
Mercedes dealer doesn't not take engines from junk yard. They either installing rebuild one circulating in system (if available) or rebuilding themself (depends on the skills of mechanics they have) by sourcing used blocks in good condition if available .
Anyway those won't last any longer than the one you have.
In 2019 i had my 2013 E550 coupe m278 (no warranty, w 44k miles) engine start blowing smoke out of pass. side with no codes or CEL. I was told (by independent tech) a failed injector stuck open, dumped fuel and washed oil off the wall of cylinder 5. The piston scored the wall up. Took it to the stealership and they tried 4 new injectors and 1 new head before MB sent them a new block under Goodwill Assitance. Cost me about $4500 total but i did get a 3yr/36k warranty with the new block. I figured w/o Goodwill assitance it could have cost $15-20k to repair which not be worth it for a car that is worth $25-30K.
Last edited by wheatswake; Jan 18, 2022 at 09:08 AM.
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"The cast-aluminum block is a closed-deck design to provide the desired strength. A special Mercedes-developed process called Nanoslide coats the aluminum bore surfaces with a thin, porous coating of iron for improved wear resistance with minimal friction."
