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My biggest fight with getting my motor repaired instead of a used motor was the resale. I would never buy a newer car that has had a used motor installed. After all the work on my GL63, it runs like new and has a 2 year warranty on all of the parts that were replaced.
My dealership was so great with my wife’s GL that I sold my Audi and got a Mercedes GTS for me. Audi’s had issues with their 4.0tt as well. Bad oil screens that would blow up the turbos.
My 2013 x166 is at about 100k miles. About 1-2 years ago it started to develop oil consumption and coolant consumption that my mechanics can't really track down. But it's not too severe so I just occasionally top up and live with it.
I have been driving in cold temp (~0F) a lot this winter for our weekly skiing, about a month ago CEL came on, code read cylinder 5 misfirings, although driving was completely fine the car felt normal. I brought it to my mechanic he suggested changing spark plugs first because it has never been changed. CEL didn't come back for a month.
Last week on a cold day (< 0F), a few minutes into driving CEL came up, and this time I actually feel some rhythmic vibration from the engine if I try to give gas, I guess one of the cylinders was not firing/misfiring? I drove gingerly for about 10 miles to get to where we needed to be, then restarted the car, upon restart, there was no CEL and the car was driving fine again... A week passed so far CEL hasn't come back. I didn't have my OBDII scanner with me when the CEL came up so I don't know what code it was.
The episode of feeling that engine vibration was somewhat disconcerting, the last thing I want would be the whole family got stranded on our weekly long drive up to the ski mountain. Any suggestion on what should I do in the meantime, other than waiting for the CEL to come up again?
I drove mine for a year or so, I would not think that it would leave anyone stranded. For piece of mind, I would get each cylinder inspected w a scope, might as well change the plugs too. You would have a good baseline for the combustion, given you know how old they are.
Although it may be oil in your engine harness, could just be a replacing the sensors if they oil has not migrated too far.
That is where I would start, I am sure others will chime in.
I drove mine for a year or so, I would not think that it would leave anyone stranded. For piece of mind, I would get each cylinder inspected w a scope, might as well change the plugs too. You would have a good baseline for the combustion, given you know how old they are.
Although it may be oil in your engine harness, could just be a replacing the sensors if they oil has not migrated too far.
That is where I would start, I am sure others will chime in.
Already changed all plugs after the 1st CEL occurrence, so the 2nd one should be something else. Good point about oil in the harness, maybe that's where the oil consumption goes!?
When one of the cylinders isn't firing properly to the degree I can feel the vibration, I imagine I should try to drive gingerly and be careful with the throttle? Maybe not stranded exactly, but that would make a 250 miles drive really painful...
Last edited by byroncheung; 02-02-2022 at 05:27 PM.
So i see im not the only one who has a time and a half dealing with Endurance with my GL. I’m going through it tryna get them to cover my engine because i lost compression in cylinder #8 at 140,00 miles and is misfiring bad and they still tryna say its something i did (which ain’t the case) and every shop i take it to in Maryland who has dealt with them want me to come out my pocket with $15K just to tear down the engine so they can see the cylinder in person (since the borescope doesn’t count) to verify that the scoring on my block is from my piston ring failing. They are a sucky *** company to deal with
They truly do suck to deal with, Tink. I am lucky in that I spent about $4k on their 5 year, 100k warranty and have already gotten that money back in repairs I had them cover over the past 4 plus years. My warranty expires in July of this year and I'll pretty much break even. I plan on seeing if they'll cover the known issue with the badly ground valve angle from the factory that could be causing my bad compression in #5. If not, it's no big deal. I'm keeping my GL for another 5 years, and it's paid off next month. I plan to use my 88 Mustang for a daily for awhile, and drop the engine out of the GL to rebuild. MBWorld member (and fellow Nola local) Arsupisemnet offered to give guidance, and he has rebuilt quite a few M278s using some of his amazing engineer knowledge and now experience through trial and error. Looks like keeping your stock block and using sleeves is the way to go. I hope that you have success with Endurance, but if not, there are other options if you want to keep your GL.
So i see im not the only one who has a time and a half dealing with Endurance with my GL. I’m going through it tryna get them to cover my engine because i lost compression in cylinder #8 at 140,00 miles and is misfiring bad and they still tryna say its something i did (which ain’t the case) and every shop i take it to in Maryland who has dealt with them want me to come out my pocket with $15K just to tear down the engine so they can see the cylinder in person (since the borescope doesn’t count) to verify that the scoring on my block is from my piston ring failing. They are a sucky *** company to deal with
Yes, endurance sucks. 140k is pretty late for this issue to have shown itself, from what I read here.
2015 991 Turbo S, 2013 M3, 2018 X5M and some others
Originally Posted by silvergl
Doing the Lords work.
ha...I can't take credit for that. There are a lot of unfortunate situations here and I feel bad for everyone that had to go through a nightmare situation. Nevertheless, i am looking for a 7 passenger occasional road trip hauler and a pre-owned GL/GLS63 is on the short list. From the reviews here and discussions with my shop, it seems the best solution for an older model is to purchase a good aftermarket warranty since these issues can surface at any point and the repair bills can be very high.
Sounds like I'm having similar issues with my 17' GLE63S. Any recommendations on how to guide my SA to the problem at hand? Thanks.
get the cylinders scoped by a reliable indy. The dealer in Central NJ lied to me about mine. Twice actually. Once whenit was in the car and again after I had it pulled. Both times what they said were factually inaccurate.
get the cylinders scoped by a reliable indy. The dealer in Central NJ lied to me about mine. Twice actually. Once whenit was in the car and again after I had it pulled. Both times what they said were factually inaccurate.
they did, and then about a week after the warranty expired the "found" the problem, after being in the shop multiple times for the issue. mb usa did nothing to help.
Service advisor and AMG tech chased it down to a foul spark plug and ignition coil, hopefully that remedies the issue. Will keep this thread updated with any new findings.
Thanks for posting this, olcree1111. My 2014 ML63 has the dreaded codes on cyl 5 and 8. Would a visit to the dealer be the next step?
Quick update: Dealer is replacing both heads on the engine. No charge.They were pretty puzzled when I showed up with the printed paper, but my AMG63 only has 60k miles. Second owner.
Hi, @silvergl I have a 2015 GL550 with just over 100k miles that I believe is facing the common bore score issue. I haven't had it scoped, but the knock sounds similar to what others shared, and is heard more prevalent in the exhaust. Additionally, I'm finding some aluminum shavings in the oil filter. I may just dump it on a trade and eat the loss, but I'd love to hear your recommendations on places to perform a rebuild. I'm in the south Jersey area (Swedesboro/Mullica Hill). Thanks!
MBWorld.org Forums - View Profile: arsupisemnet Give arsupisemnet a shout. He can get you a new sleeved bottom end. Anything else for these is futile as it will fail too. I would have him do the bottom end for you, get some forged rods and pistons, throw bigger turbos on it and have some fun with the rebuild. You'll have an engine that is much more powerful and more reliable than stock,
I think it depends upon how much you want to spend. Arsupismnet does amazing work and is probably the highest end build you could get in one of these. I picked up a 40k mile engine from a website, Michigan breaker I believe. Tony Sandu at +16094489800 at City Auto in Hightstown did the work. The shop does not look like much, but his mechanics are BMW and MB certified, they got the job done quickly and completely at a fair price. Anything I cannot do myself I take to him.
You have to figure its a 10 yr old car now, the book value is probably $10k, depends upon how much you want to put into it. I love the car, buts its getting older.
I might drive it up to Tony while it still runs and ask him to take a look.
I had the exact same problem at ~75K miles in 2019, MB dealer gave a $11000 estimate to fix one cylinder head, left side that was impacted. After screaming at both MB customer service and the dealer about the crap quality, they offered a 1500 discount, and MB added 1100 to that. Still I was over 8000. I was told that the engine head comes as a complete set, valve sleeves and seals are not separately available.
I took it to a local ex dealer mechanic's shop and he has a relationship with a NASCAR engine builder, who said they recognized the valves and seals to be from a Nissan engine. They were drop in replacement and fit. I got the left head fixed for about 3500 in parts and labor. The car just hit 100k miles. No more issues. But I suspect the other side is a ticking timebomb, it will fail one day and need a $3500 repair. But, at least I know what to do. Apparently this was a NISSAN designed or made engine. Which I wouldn't believe unless the mechanic who fixed it told me.
Hello,
Thank you for sharing, hope your car is still going well.
Do you still remember what were the Nissan part numbers of the guides and seals you used.
Thank you!
Apparently this was a NISSAN designed or made engine. Which I wouldn't believe unless the mechanic who fixed it told me.
Not correct. It's not a Nissan designed or made engine. MB and most manufacturers do not build all their own parts and sources many/most from vendors/parts manufactures like Bosch, Beru, Brembo, ETC, ETC. For example, my old X164 GL used ignition coils from Delphi. The MB parts have MB on them but they are manufactured by Delphi. Was good to know since I could source them for $6 each at the time instead of paying triple or quadruple for the MB tax. It most likely has the same part that Nissan uses in some of their engines. Since it failed early, maybe it wasn't a good idea to use the same parts as them.