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Replaced connecting rods bearing with King Bearings CR6868CP from M272. Same size, just needed two packs since it is for V6. Was looking for set for M278, however two months backorder time kept me to alternative. Picture from pre-torque. Actual 90 degree torque clearance will be even tighter.
Looking good. What is the tool (tape) and method to measure bearing clearance? I have not seen that before, and have assembled an engine myself in the past.
Saturday. Replaced exhaust camshaft on the driver side because of the wear with one almost new (5k miles) from S550 M278 which i picked for a change on eBay. Assembled cylinder covers on both sides. Installed exhaust manifold with turbo, downpipe, all the shields on the driver side. Installed intake.
Sunday. Assembled whole fuel system and finally put engine harness. One of the wires running under the passenger side cylinder head. Installed right exhaust with turbo, put starter back in place, install engine mounts with engine support and all shields. Afternoon was in screwing bunch of bolts, basically assembling everything all the way around engine.
By 9 pm Sunday evening put engine back in the bay.
I usually work alone. But my dad helped me on the weekend, just because he was worrying that i will drop engine on the floor.
With this complexity of the work it is usually better to work alone, since you have to remember the orders of things to install, fasteners, and tools location.
For example in order to install engine support, starter, shields, and so on, on the passenger side of the engine, i had to install intake, then install fuel system, then install engine harness which stays on top, because there is a wire running along engine passenger side.
One thing were very unpleasant to discover - in case of starter failure you will have to take engine out.
Yesterday finished putting back everything underneath the car, will try to start it today.
There is a digital copy of MB WIS you can get on eBay for a change. Very useful and helpful. Don't know about Alldata.
Or you can officially subscribe to MB WIS online but it is several hundred dollars a month.
So an update. Finally assembled everything but body plastic for initial start yesterday night. Put oil, coolant. It took about 6 starting attempts to start engine - had to wait till fuel system will completely fill with gasoline. Engine started with no problems. No more vibration. Kept running for half an hour till it reached working temperature. Checked oil - no coolant in it. Which is good. No leaks. Waiting on the AC gauges till friday to fill in AC.
Run diagnostics with POS scanner borrowed from a friend. No errors but stored previously. Checked live data, engine smoothness. All good.
One thing - can't reset check engine light. Computer has previously stored errors from cylinder 5 misfire and so on. Can only be reset by MB scanner. Now thinking if it is worth buying chinese clone.
Today in evening - put back all the body plastic back and start driving around.
To the question of carbon buildup on the intake valves. These are valves from cylinder heads i replaced on my engine (which i presently rebuilding to have a spare set).
Seems like Intake Valve Cleaner been cleaning intake valves after all.
Thanks for sharing photos of the valves, these are much cleaner than i would have thought after 100K miles. Question i have - where did you inject the CRC spray cleaner into the M278 engine ?
To clean up intake valves i usually unscrew clamps on rubber connection between air filter and input pipe to turbo charger and slide spraying straw toward turbo pipe. This way you going to wash of you turbo as well at the same time. It is two people job since one will have to keep RPMs at about 2000 or something - the whole procedure is well written on the back of the can.
Thanks arsupisement. My concern here is the "dirty" wash from the turbo will go through the intercooler , MAP sensors, throttle body before making its way to the intake valves. How did these components look after taking the engine apart ?
Don't want to upset you but there is a plastic tube connected to passenger side rubber connection between air filter and intake pipe to turbo which vent all the nasty stuff from the engine insides (including oil vapors which is usually contribute to oil consumption). It is easy to see if you remove turbo intake pipe - everything will be soaked in oil film (giving you an impression of turbo failure) And that vented oil mixed with micro dust particles are the reasons for carbon build up on intake valves, intake manifold and so on. My intake components been more or less clean, due to washing.
Last edited by arsupisemnet; 10-16-2019 at 11:00 AM.
09-19-2019, 09:36 AM
