Great quick writeup. That helped me get to a point where all I have left to do is separate the condenser from the radiator. I see the clips (2 sets per side) where the plastic is keeping the radiator from sliding off and separating the two. How did you get enough room to even clip those off, let alone do it the correct way of unlocking them, without completely removing the radiator? I have the entire assembly loose and out of the lower rubber mounts, but the AC lines on the driver's side are still connected. Those AC lines are causing me to not have enough room to move the radiator/condenser toward the engine enough. I downloaded AR20.20-P-3865MLJ from the WIS and it says to recover the R134a so you can remove those two AC lines, but I'm sure we'd all rather not have to do so. Also, did you slide the radiator down after removing the clips with wire cutters, or did it pop off towards the engine and away from the condenser? A bit of backstory: my cylinder #5 is badly scored and the dynamic compression test has it about 65-70rpm higher than all the rest of the cylinders. I did a leakdown and it's at almost 50%. After the leakdown test, I re-assembled everything and drive a few days without issue. Came into the garage on Tuesday and saw a large coolant puddle after starting the car and getting the dreaded "low coolant check" message on the center info screen. Like you, it took me a bit to isolate the leak, but mine is on the lower driver's side near the drain (petcock). So, I have a new MB radiator to install at almost the same time you are. My vehicle is also experiencing aging issues with the plastics (2013 GL550) and I've replaced all but one turbo coolant line. It seems all the coolant hoses are ok, but anything that is plastic and contacts the hot coolant has become brittle and very easy to break off. I hope your radiator replacement fixes your issues as well.

 

I used some small wire cutters to cut up the clips that are 6" from the top. Holding the radiator and condenser together. Then I was able to wiggle the radiator down and the condenser up to separate them. With the ground strap out of the way I had enough room to work it out.

Just lots of fiddling really. But getting all four trans line out helped.

 

I was able to remove my old radiator about an hour after my original post. As you said, lots and lots of wriggling. Unfortunately, when putting the new radiator in, the passenger side upper clips broke off and now I'm going to have to rig some type of zip tie system on that mounting point in order to lock the radiator and condenser back together. Thankfully, the driver's side clips are still intact. Not sure if I moved the radiator laterally when trying to get the bottom u-shaped mounts to link up, and they broke off, but that's something to watch for. I'm definitely leaning toward rigging up a new mount system. There is no option of buying another $600 MB radiator due to some stupid small clips. I have to get a 1/2 ACME to 1/4 fitting for my R134a recover tank, but then I plan to recover the refrigerant and do it the way the WIS directs by removing the two AC lines from the condenser. That way it all comes out and can be clipped together properly before being lowered back into place. I'm certainly glad to hear that you didn't run into the broken clip issue, but I hope others use my experience with the clips breaking as a cautionary tale. I've also go a small refrigerant leak that I need to find, so I'll add some dye when recharging the system (two birds, one stone). I'd also recommend getting two of the purple MB AC line seals and some HVAC oil to lube them before putting the AC lines back on the condenser. That way you've got a little insurance against leaks. I'm back at it tomorrow so wish me luck!

 

I replaced the radiator in my wife's 2013 GL450 this weekend. Thanks to the instructions listed above it wasn't too bad. In my case, the leak was actually a broken tee on the hose that's connected to the lowest point on the coolant reservoir (behind the left front headlight). That was temporarily fixed with epoxy, so more work to come. But the radiator is done.

A couple notes for others:

1). If you've not recently replaced your turbo coolant lines, you might as well do it all at the same time as i) you are going to inevitably break one or more turbo lines as they will be more brittle than dried cheese, and ii) removing the fan and radiator will give you a ton of extra space for the turbo line replacement.

2). I used ramps to get access to underneath the car. You should remove both lower splash shields - - there is a shorter one attached to the front lower bumper, and then the larger one that goes back to the crossmember in front of the transmission. With the panels removed and the car in the air , you can put a Home Depot bucket under the radiator drain on the driver's side which can be opened with a quarter/half turn counter clockwise.

3) While the coolant is draining, you can remove the 3-headed skinny coolant vent line on top of the engine. This line, or the parts it connects to may break, if not new - - you've been warned. Also disconnect the upper large radiator hose. And when the coolant stops draining out the bottom, move your bucket and remove the large lower radiator hose at the right side too.

4). You need to lift the fan out the top. Unclip the wiring harness and pull up in the fan while gently releasing the clips on each side of the fan shroud. The fan will wiggle out the top when freed.

5). With the fan out of the way, use a small pick to remove the "e" clips that secure the oil cooler lines. Be careful not to lose them. They are small. Two transmission lines are accessible from the top, two from the bottom. Have a towel ready as it will dribble ATF. While you are under the car, also undo the ground strap on the AC compressor side for good measure. Not sure this step is absolutely required, but it doesn't take much effort.

6) Remove the two oval plugs/caps on the top outer portion of the radiator that holds it in place. I used a screwdriver to pop them both out. Both plugs suffered damage to the clips but were reusable. You may need to buy new mounting plugs if you want the repair to be pristine (they are not cheap).

7). With the mounting caps out of the way, you can now push the radiator and condensor back towards the engine. It will hinge on the lower mounting posts. I [gently] used a pry bar from the top to separate the radiator feom the condensor. Be careful when doing this, but in my case it very easily snapped the little clips that hold the radiator to the condensor atbthe sides near the top. The radiator can now be moved independently.

8). If you push both the radiator and condensor towards the engine so that the top of both clears the front crossmember, you can then pull up on the condensor which will free it from the lower radiator clips/hooks. Consider wearing mechanics gloves for this step. There are sharp edges everywhere on the radiator and condensor.

9). Once the condensor is fully free from the radiator, pull the radiator up and out through the top of the engine bay. You may need to use a prybar on the bottom of the radiator to pop the mounting posts up and out of the rubber grommet. Once the radiator is out, now is a great time to replace any old turbo coolant lines, water pump, and/or the serpentine belt, if needed (not discussed here).

10). Reinstallation is the opposite of removal. It's fiddly stuff. I greased the rubber bushings and mounting points with silicon grease (dielectric paste). In my experience, I found success by installing the radiator posts in the rubber grommets first. With the bottom of the radiator installed, I tilted the radiator towards the engine and I lifted up the condensor to get the bottom "hooked" on the radiator brackets at the bottom. Once the bottom of the condensor is hooked to the radiator, wiggle the condensor left/right such that when you pull them together the upper mounting latches come together. Eventually, they should click together with a hard squeeze at the sides. From there it's generally downhill in reversing the disassembly.

11). Make sure to fully reseat the top plugs that hold the radiator in place. Make sure that the transmission oil lines fully "click" into place and can't come loose. Make sure the radiator hoses are also fully seated/clicked into place. In my experience, the 4.7L V8 is self bleeding, but a vacuum coolant filler is very useful for both verifying leak integrity as well as filling the system.

Good luck!