GL Class (X166) 2013-2015 after facelift became GLS (X166)

GL X166 Active Curve Sway Bar bushing replacement?

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Old Dec 29, 2022 | 03:36 PM
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GL X166 Active Curve Sway Bar bushing replacement?

I have a 2014 GL550 with Active Curve System (Option Code 468). My truck has been squeaking going over bumps recently. Dealer diagnosed it as bad bushing on the active curve sway bar (also referred to as stabilizer bar, anti-roll bar, and/or torsion bar). The dealer cost is $3300 parts plus $1200 labor. Online dealers have the parts for $1,8XX and this is a job that seems relatively straight forward so I will do it myself, but it seems unnecessary to replace the entire bar if just the bushings are bad. However, the dealer said is that the mount is not removable from the bar so you cannot just replace the bushings. I am wondering if anybody has experience trying to replace the bushings only or if I have to spend the $1,800 for a new replacement sway bar? Any input is appreciated.
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Old Dec 30, 2022 | 10:44 AM
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Why not lube to see it it lasts?
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Old Dec 30, 2022 | 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by rmcginty2@gmail
I have a 2014 GL550 with Active Curve System (Option Code 468). My truck has been squeaking going over bumps recently. Dealer diagnosed it as bad bushing on the active curve sway bar (also referred to as stabilizer bar, anti-roll bar, and/or torsion bar). The dealer cost is $3300 parts plus $1200 labor. Online dealers have the parts for $1,8XX and this is a job that seems relatively straight forward so I will do it myself, but it seems unnecessary to replace the entire bar if just the bushings are bad. However, the dealer said is that the mount is not removable from the bar so you cannot just replace the bushings. I am wondering if anybody has experience trying to replace the bushings only or if I have to spend the $1,800 for a new replacement sway bar? Any input is appreciated.
Get a quote from an independent shop and ask if they can replace bushings only.

“Normal” MB practice is that the bushings are glued to the bar and not sold separately. Aftermarket non-OEM loose bushings may be available.

Last edited by chassis; Dec 30, 2022 at 12:00 PM.
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Old Apr 3, 2023 | 06:49 AM
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14GL450
I found the squeeking sound came from the pasenger strut. After I removed the lower control arm, I held the bottom of the strut and shook it. The same squeeking sound as it went over the bump.

I ordered both struts to rrplace and the work is coming up this week.

I also checked the upper control arm, driver side is bad too. New parts also coming.

There is no point to replace just the bushings because the work you removed the entire part. I would rather spend a little more to have it pressed correctly.

Just some update.
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Old Apr 4, 2023 | 11:33 AM
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Please keep us posted, have similar issues and want to address.
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Old Nov 12, 2023 | 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by rmcginty2@gmail
I have a 2014 GL550 with Active Curve System (Option Code 468). My truck has been squeaking going over bumps recently. Dealer diagnosed it as bad bushing on the active curve sway bar (also referred to as stabilizer bar, anti-roll bar, and/or torsion bar). The dealer cost is $3300 parts plus $1200 labor. Online dealers have the parts for $1,8XX and this is a job that seems relatively straight forward so I will do it myself, but it seems unnecessary to replace the entire bar if just the bushings are bad. However, the dealer said is that the mount is not removable from the bar so you cannot just replace the bushings. I am wondering if anybody has experience trying to replace the bushings only or if I have to spend the $1,800 for a new replacement sway bar? Any input is appreciated.
I have the same problem for my w166 ML. This is INSANE. I read in another forum a user was able to order the bushings from febibs. But he was not able to remove the old bushings from the bar. The "clamp" was not designed to split.

Any solution for this???
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Old Nov 12, 2023 | 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by kkarb
I have the same problem for my w166 ML. This is INSANE. I read in another forum a user was able to order the bushings from febibs. But he was not able to remove the old bushings from the bar. The "clamp" was not designed to split.

Any solution for this???
No other solution, unfortunately. I bought a used one on eBay for around $700 and then a quart of the special synthetic oil for the system. It was a relatively easy repair. Hardest part was getting the under shield bc I have the off road package and a bunch of the bolts were rusted. Otherwise it was just remove the bolts at the end links, remove the bolts on the mount, and then there’s one bolt on each hydraulic line.
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Old Nov 15, 2023 | 09:33 AM
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There is a solution for removing a clamp - drilling welding spots out and putting it apart.
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