Airmatic calibration - reset
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2024
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Airmatic calibration - reset
Greetings, all, I have been having trouble with my air Matic suspension on the 2010 GL 350. A while back I replace the compressor and front airbags (air springs). More recently I had problems with the fuse burning on the compressor so I realized that the level link rods were kind of stuck so I replaced them. I replace the front ones and I was still burning the fuse, probably because the compressor was working too hard to pump the rear which was also stuck. I have now just replaced the rear ones with whatever the dealer recommended for parts number which I bought from Autohaus AZ. It looks like they might be a tad little bit different in terms of length and now the rear is much lower and won’t go much higher even when I try to level it or raise the vehicle.
The question: do you think I need to re-calibrate the suspension to fit the slightly different size in the link rods?
even when I looked up the direct part numbers off the old link rods it still gives me the new part numbers as found on the website and as provided by the dealer.
anyone have any information or suggestions?
The question: do you think I need to re-calibrate the suspension to fit the slightly different size in the link rods?
even when I looked up the direct part numbers off the old link rods it still gives me the new part numbers as found on the website and as provided by the dealer.
anyone have any information or suggestions?
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 1,727
Likes: 493
From: Spain UTC/GMT +2 hours
W213 All-terrain
Firsts of all you have to change the compressor, connector and the relay.
A good compressor will not blow the fuse even if there is a leak in the system.
Compressor is time monitored by the suspension ECU and if the relay is OK, the ECU will be shut down before any damage.
The connector from compressor can be burned, so sparks can increase the chance for fuse blow.
A good compressor will not blow the fuse even if there is a leak in the system.
Compressor is time monitored by the suspension ECU and if the relay is OK, the ECU will be shut down before any damage.
The connector from compressor can be burned, so sparks can increase the chance for fuse blow.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2024
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Firsts of all you have to change the compressor, connector and the relay.
A good compressor will not blow the fuse even if there is a leak in the system.
Compressor is time monitored by the suspension ECU and if the relay is OK, the ECU will be shut down before any damage.
The connector from compressor can be burned, so sparks can increase the chance for fuse blow.
A good compressor will not blow the fuse even if there is a leak in the system.
Compressor is time monitored by the suspension ECU and if the relay is OK, the ECU will be shut down before any damage.
The connector from compressor can be burned, so sparks can increase the chance for fuse blow.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2024
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
At this point, I’m wondering if the new level link rods are a different size and (if anyone noticed is such a thing) and if re-calibration of the suspension is what’s needed to account for the slight difference in size, (which results in a different angle, sent to the suspension computer.)
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 1,727
Likes: 493
From: Spain UTC/GMT +2 hours
W213 All-terrain
I would clean if needed the rods, but the fact that a 40Amp fuse blows means that the main problem is the compressor, if the relay is still alive and can stop the compressor - and I think is still OK as your compressor doesn't run without stopping.
Read again my first post as the rods can't make the compressor to consume more....
Read again my first post as the rods can't make the compressor to consume more....
