GL Class (X166) 2013-2015 after facelift became GLS (X166)

Engine drop without lift ?

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Old Dec 4, 2025 | 05:22 PM
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2014 GL450, 2006 S500, 2003 ML350, 1996 C280 (Prev 1995 C220, 2002 CLK320, 1980 300SD Turbo)
Engine drop without lift ?

All my life I have wanted a lift - I now have the ability and space to get one installed - but its winter already and when you get older (I'm 43 lol) - your arms get shorter as your pockets get deeper

I'll get one in at Spring, but I was just curious - has anyone ever lowered their engine / removed the subframe using those over-engine bars? I saw someone in the w212 AMG forum that looked like did and imagined it would be easier on an SUV. Although I think resting the frame on jack stands is way sketchier than a lift (even though I guess I have done that all the time.)

Look forward to your opinions.
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Old Dec 11, 2025 | 04:25 PM
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2016 Gl 450
Originally Posted by RollTideW163
All my life I have wanted a lift - I now have the ability and space to get one installed - but its winter already and when you get older (I'm 43 lol) - your arms get shorter as your pockets get deeper

I'll get one in at Spring, but I was just curious - has anyone ever lowered their engine / removed the subframe using those over-engine bars? I saw someone in the w212 AMG forum that looked like did and imagined it would be easier on an SUV. Although I think resting the frame on jack stands is way sketchier than a lift (even though I guess I have done that all the time.)

Look forward to your opinions.
It's no big deal as long as the jack stands are suitable for the weight of the car and the engine is supported in the proper places. The question is can they raise the car high enough to do the job properly and comfortably? You didn't say what the job was BTW.
The lift obviously gives more height.
I was thumbing through a wis procedure the other day and it showed the factory engine support frame being set up for the M276 engine. There were multiple bracing points. In comparison my bmw 3 series was fine with just the left and right legs resting on the fenders/ supporting a crossbar type engine lift and it used a single attachment point.
There could be other ways of doing the job safely so let's see what anyone else posts here, otherwise I'd follow the factory technique.
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Old Dec 11, 2025 | 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Jvac
It's no big deal as long as the jack stands are suitable for the weight of the car and the engine is supported in the proper places. The question is can they raise the car high enough to do the job properly and comfortably? You didn't say what the job was BTW.
The lift obviously gives more height.
I was thumbing through a wis procedure the other day and it showed the factory engine support frame being set up for the M276 engine. There were multiple bracing points. In comparison my bmw 3 series was fine with just the left and right legs resting on the fenders/ supporting a crossbar type engine lift and it used a single attachment point.
There could be other ways of doing the job safely so let's see what anyone else posts here, otherwise I'd follow the factory technique.
Hey Jvac - thanks for the reply - I don't have a specific procedure planned, other than an inspection for some minor oil leaking I have noticed. Two winters ago I had to replace the cooler lines on the turbos for the notorious plastic breaking points near the engine. I didn't know about the rubber hose alternate fab some people have been doing, so I just replaced the factory cooling lines. I probably had every imaginable contraption of long pliers to do it and it was absolutely terrible. I actually can't believe I pulled it off with the engine in to this day because WIS says it was an engine out procedure.

It just seems so much crap with this m278 is only reasonably done with the engine out that got the question asked. Plus my main mentor these days is Tasos and all his "check ups" start with complete engine removal lol
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Old Dec 12, 2025 | 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by RollTideW163
Hey Jvac - thanks for the reply - I don't have a specific procedure planned, other than an inspection for some minor oil leaking I have noticed. Two winters ago I had to replace the cooler lines on the turbos for the notorious plastic breaking points near the engine. I didn't know about the rubber hose alternate fab some people have been doing, so I just replaced the factory cooling lines. I probably had every imaginable contraption of long pliers to do it and it was absolutely terrible. I actually can't believe I pulled it off with the engine in to this day because WIS says it was an engine out procedure.

It just seems so much crap with this m278 is only reasonably done with the engine out that got the question asked. Plus my main mentor these days is Tasos and all his "check ups" start with complete engine removal lol
Haha I see I have much to learn from you all. Mainly I'm just trying to stoke some conversations here to see what useful info I can pick up. I too have at least one small oil leak I have been monitoring for a while now and it's indeed hard to get a good look at anything with all the plumbing wrapped around this motor. And while on the subject, is it true these engines don't use gaskets for things like oil pan? From the wis docs it looks like the parts are mated with Loctite sealant instead but I'll have to look over again more closely.
When I have time I will share the wis document I was looking at. It at least gives some clues as to where and how to support the engine even if one wouldn't be using a factory hoist rig.
I have a set of the quick jack lifts that are fantastic for working on my small sedan but unfortunately I not long enough to reach the jack points in the merc suv. They make a larger set that would work called the XL or something, and for the price I can't recommend a nicer product that folds up flat when not in use and is far more useful than jack stands for bigger jobs. Also offers better peace of mind to me when the vehicle is lifted above me for long periods of time.

Last edited by Jvac; Dec 12, 2025 at 11:37 AM.
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Old Dec 12, 2025 | 03:49 PM
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Yes - oil pans are sealed with this https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/sil...einz-703145300

That is the after-market cheaper equivalent. The Benz one is https://www.ebay.com/itm/254987430890

I've used both and the OEM one expired/hardened after 1 year but then again I kept it in a garage that got as low as 35 F in the winter

Valve covers have a rubber gasket (on the m113, not the m278) but most are sealed with that liquid. There is also a loctite 5900 that some people use.
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Old Dec 12, 2025 | 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by RollTideW163
Yes - oil pans are sealed with this https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/sil...einz-703145300

That is the after-market cheaper equivalent. The Benz one is https://www.ebay.com/itm/254987430890

I've used both and the OEM one expired/hardened after 1 year but then again I kept it in a garage that got as low as 35 F in the winter

Valve covers have a rubber gasket (on the m113, not the m278) but most are sealed with that liquid. There is also a loctite 5900 that some people use.
Thank you much! Now to find the leaks. Pretty sure it's the oil pan and filter housing. Not surprising; the German cars are all the same in that regard.
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