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I lease a GLC 220d 190 hp and next service is in december
I did a long trip 3500 km and the engine oil level is at Min level
I would like to fill in some oil until the first service A
What type of oil is recommended ? I found that suggested is 5w-50 and 10w-60 for all-season -25+25
Is it ok to fill in extra oil until the first service ?
Please help
I lease a GLC 220d 190 hp and next service is in december
I did a long trip 3500 km and the engine oil level is at Min level
I would like to fill in some oil until the first service A
What type of oil is recommended ? I found that suggested is 5w-50 and 10w-60 for all-season -25+25
Is it ok to fill in extra oil until the first service ?
Please help
Our GLC recommends Mobil One Synthetic. That's all I use.
Can't go wrong with any 0w-40, I have Pennzoil, LubroMoly, Castrol, Mobil and Valvoline sitting around. I maintain a bunch of cars, so I buy discounted when I can, BUT if I was buying for just one car, it would be Ravenol or ROWE.
E Coupe C207, ML W166, ML W164, Sprinter 1500/144, W111 SB220 Fintail(s), A5 chassis Beetle 5+5
Originally Posted by djmanosv
Hello community
I lease a GLC 220d 190 hp and next service is in december
I did a long trip 3500 km and the engine oil level is at Min level
I would like to fill in some oil until the first service A
What type of oil is recommended ? I found that suggested is 5w-50 and 10w-60 for all-season -25+25
Is it ok to fill in extra oil until the first service ?
Please help
5w-40 is the thickest grade considered appropriate in the North American market. Any brand, even for diesel engines, is fine.
E Coupe C207, ML W166, ML W164, Sprinter 1500/144, W111 SB220 Fintail(s), A5 chassis Beetle 5+5
No need for anything special during break-in. Drive it the way you normally will and change the oil when you normally would.
imo, timed changes is better than counting down miles to an arbitrary number. Ideally, every 6 months is perfect for both short trip drivers who don't really get the oil warmed up for long, as well as lots of highway miles. Ifyou drive under 10k a year, one change is sufficient.
Easiest way to accomplish this is to get a dealer oil change at thetime of your state inspection, then 6 months later suck it out with the extractor pump. Don't even worry about the filter, the engines run clean and dump nearly nothing into the filter. They are good for 2 years / 30k kilometers anyway.
So, an extra oil change for under $50....perfect. Every 6 months, perfect.
E Coupe C207, ML W166, ML W164, Sprinter 1500/144, W111 SB220 Fintail(s), A5 chassis Beetle 5+5
50 and 60 weights are surely specific to certain HOT climates, like Saudi Arabia and Austrailian markets.
No oils in those grades have formal MB approval. I don't know why that site recommends them. MPG and cold start spec requirements cannot be met.
If oil temperature is 10°C higher than coolant temperature and temperature is being controlled , why in hot countries does oil need to be thick for normal driving ?
I understand 50 and 60 grades being used in a punished track car where there is a great risk of overheating etc.
E Coupe C207, ML W166, ML W164, Sprinter 1500/144, W111 SB220 Fintail(s), A5 chassis Beetle 5+5
Some climates "need" the thicker oil. Technically, it might not be an absolute necessity, but it's a customary viscosity in those places. I talked to Australian guys about it, and got a simple answer; that's what they do. In SA, they have to let the engine idle down after driving a distance.
Thinking about it, it's not unique to those climates, in fact the best selling grade of Mobil 1 in Europe is 5w-50. People's perceptions drive their oil choice, like with 5w-20 when it came to USA....as a technical matter, it suits the US driving style. You will not see lower wear on 50 weight.
As for our friend servicing his car... He says he's at 11000km. Ideally he can go another 9000km, but he said he burned some oil. Apparent oil burning on a trip is sometimes the condensation burning off, water in the oil. That makes it seem like you burned oil, but it's just puffing off the water in the crankcase. Even so, I would recommend he changes the oil before driving home, if it's convenient. imo, the best time to change is AFTER a road trip where the prolonged heat will clean the engine internals....then dump it out!
5w-30 vs 5w-40...? I say it's seasonal. 5w-40 in Greece summer, 5w-30 in Sweden for winter. This is why I like timed intervals of 6 months for oil changes. Not only is it a perfect amount of time (miles not relevant) changing every 6 months lets you switch visc for seasons. I like using the extractor pump for the 2nd oil change....just leave the filter on! Let the dealer change it 1x a year with inspection, you DIY it 6 months later with a different visc.
In the US, people confuse our thin 5w-30 (for US and Asian cars) with thick 5w-30 for Euro cars. imo, 0w-40 is most ideal, save the 5w-40 for the track or the 5w-30 for abject cold.
It would be ok to just top off the oil for now. 5w-40 might not burn off as fast.
E Coupe C207, ML W166, ML W164, Sprinter 1500/144, W111 SB220 Fintail(s), A5 chassis Beetle 5+5
Originally Posted by djmanosv
What would be the best thing to do ? Fill in some extra 5w-30 or 5w-40 or replace existing one ?
How many kilometers do you normally drive in a year? If under 20,000km, you can do 1 change a year, otherwise get on a 6 months schedule....you can do it now and be on time for your December service. That extractor pump is perfect for a quick change any time you want. It will pay for itself in one oil change!
E Coupe C207, ML W166, ML W164, Sprinter 1500/144, W111 SB220 Fintail(s), A5 chassis Beetle 5+5
In case people were wondering how thick 5w-40 is in cold, it's 3-4x thicker on extreme cold start-up...
Put a quart of each in your freezer overnight, you'll notice a big difference.
With a turbo, where tiny oil lines supply the turbo bearings, best to keep the starting visc under 5000cSt, that's already 500x thicker than the visc at operating temp! In a non-turbo, 10,000cSt is the absolute max visc you want your oil to be on cold start.
The German Syntec 0w-30 on the graph is the same as a 0w-40 for our purposes. Edge is the thin American API 10cSt version....yes, it's thinner in cold than 0w-40 and Euro 0w-30.
How many kilometers do you normally drive in a year? If under 20,000km, you can do 1 change a year, otherwise get on a 6 months schedule....you can do it now and be on time for your December service. That extractor pump is perfect for a quick change any time you want. It will pay for itself in one oil change!
The normal km per year is 15000 for a service. I have now 11500 and the gauge level is on Min for oil. I need to fill in some extra until the first service. The service is free of charge and I dont want to remove all the oil from the car. So I just need to fill up some oil and drive back home (3500km)
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