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Hello everyone.
I just bought the GLC300 Coupe. I didnt like the sound system, not the stock nor the Burmeister too.
Did someone the speakers upgrade? im a live concert music fan (as Yanni, Dream theatre, Spyro gyra etc...).
The bass and high are enough, the mid is horrible, please any advices for mid drivers?
Thank you.
Konstantin.
2016 GLC 250d AMG pack, 2017 GLC Coupe 250d AMG pack , 2002 BMW 330Ci convertible, 2021 BMX X1 sD20i
There is a good article about 12-18 months ago with recommended speakers, incl wiring and clearance issues I think.
It was also recommended to use speakers for a few months to bed them in so they freed up and adjusted to car and your music.
You might find they are ‘warmer’ and the mids are improved ?
2016 GLC 250d AMG pack, 2017 GLC Coupe 250d AMG pack , 2002 BMW 330Ci convertible, 2021 BMX X1 sD20i
This is from another forum heavyweight who helped another owner. His posts are excellent.
Try searching this forum under GLC speakers - you will get lots to review from various models, E, C and other classes too.
Originally Posted by fabbrisd1
Actually - the Standard System for what it is - is not that bad in my opinion.
There is a German car audio company - Fischer - that under their Match and Helix line - allow you to piggy back a adapter cable into the head unit output - which in turn get's processed by their DSP to drive their amp... they have one small "micro - amp" that works pretty slick - real pro-struff.
You can cruise the W205 forum - where there is more discussion - you would go DSP/Amp - add crossovers in the front doors - use the crossover to *** front tweeters in the mirror triangles - your choice to add a sub-in the-truck.
Good hunting.
The "good" news - you can pull that stuff and move it forward to your next one when you want..
The Stegs alone won't get you where you want to go.... you should check out the Match/Helix/Fischer stuff .. their new US distributor can be helful... the stock equalization is set for the factory speakers... so just a speaker change doesn't really get you to go... speaker upgrade doesn't "unlock" what you want
Sure - the triangles have "sockets" for either plugin Steg's (note they do not have capacitors on the tweeter/hi-pass) or add MB tweeters from eBay (which have hi-pass capacitors mounted on the tweeter) Steg has "y-cable" avail w/built-in low-pass/door and hi-pass for tweeter - or Aliexpress/eBay has y-adapter cables which are wire only (no cap's).
Again - the factory head unit is configured/equalized for the stock speakers only - it's the head unit equalization + lowest head unit power that "hold you back"..
Remember that if you use a Y cable you are changing the impedance by wiring in parallel. It may not be a ton, but the correct way to do this is to put a crossover into the mid in the door and extend that wire to the sail panel to attach the tweeter. Not only are you keeping impedance correct - you are adding a crossover that will cut destructive (low) signals from the tweeter and generating a cleaner signal to boot.
The Steg system has a Y-cable with both low-pass and high-pass filter in it to the doo-speaker/tweeter respectively,
The MB tweeter has a small cap/hi-pass wired into the tweeter connections.
The point is - the stock head unit is equalized/profiled to match the factory speaker system - and the Match/Helix stuff can open up a new door - they have a "VW" 4-channel DSP/amp PP41DSP that you can get a MB adapter cable - and a micro 5-channel M5DSP written up in the W205 forum.
Now Helix also has a self-contained 5-channel amp w/trunk subwoofer 000051419b that could be real/real trick
So I would like to add tweeters in the empty housing. I am not a pro so I would like to know:
1. Can I simply add y splitter and add the factory tweeter?
2. Will I damage anything by doing this?
3. Will the sound suffer due to impedance change? As in, will I get worse sound?
Really just want to fill the higher frequencies for a fuller sound with more clarity. I don't like boomy bass and don't play loud in the car. That's what home HiFi is for imo.
Again - please understand you can "drop in" speakers - but this is "new tech" and not old school audio - the preset equalization of the system will hold you back from any "significant" improvement..
If it was me in your shoes .. reach out to Fischer/Match US - good tech guy there - to get specifics on the correct cables to add their "4-Channel VW Amp/DSP" which can be had for like $200 .. this is the type of direction you need to start in to get somewhere really..
Again - please understand you can "drop in" speakers - but this is "new tech" and not old school audio - the preset equalization of the system will hold you back from any "significant" improvement..
If it was me in your shoes .. reach out to Fischer/Match US - good tech guy there - to get specifics on the correct cables to add their "4-Channel VW Amp/DSP" which can be had for like $200 .. this is the type of direction you need to start in to get somewhere really..
Contact Fischer/Match if you are here in the US (or Germany) and ask... normally a 4-channel amp isn't used to drive a separate sub - you use 1FR-Left/1R-Left-1FR-Right-1R-Left - if you bridge 2-channels to 1-mono for a sub (if possible) that only leave you 2-channels left - and you won't be able to face between front+rear.. you "sub-out" from the 4-channel to drive a separate mono amp.
The reason I suggest "some" consider the 4-channel amp expansion on non-Burmester - is to open the system up to fresh DSP profiles..
