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There is a scratch on the rear right moulding. I don't know how it got there or what happened. Is there anything I can do able it? It is quite noticeable. I was thinking black Sharpie but color probably too dark. I can replace it but it might cost a lot and eventually get scratch again Any advice?
Lol my wife showed me the same thing in our Glc300. I don’t know if it’s a “ door ding” or something else. I’ve used a black marker in the last to cover it BUT goo be gone works also, use a q-tip. It will be less voidable
I agree with the heat gun. Have done it many times, especially on old faded VW bumpers. Just be careful, not too close and take your time. Just darker up the scratch, don't try to melt it in.
How about this. Top Front glass/plastic panel in front of panoramic roof meets front windshield. Took to dealer says it’s normal for coating to come off from sun exposure?? Only 3 year old GLC dealer will replace under warranty but still Mercedes is getting cheap with there quality.
How about this. Top Front glass/plastic panel in front of panoramic roof meets front windshield. Took to dealer says it’s normal for coating to come off from sun exposure?? Only 3 year old GLC dealer will replace under warranty but still Mercedes is getting cheap with there quality.
- Not normal and not true. The dealer is full of BS. I Live in south TX, super hot 🥵. Paint / coating shouldn’t be peeling or coming off, especially after 3 years.
You can try a heat gun, to darken up the scratch a bit, just don’t over do it and melt it...
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Originally Posted by tisi_03
I agree with the heat gun. Have done it many times, especially on old faded VW bumpers. Just be careful, not too close and take your time. Just darker up the scratch, don't try to melt it in.
Originally Posted by Roni07
Lol my wife showed me the same thing in our Glc300. I don’t know if it’s a “ door ding” or something else. I’ve used a black marker in the last to cover it BUT goo be gone works also, use a q-tip. It will be less voidable
I don't have a heat gun. Would a hair dryer work? I just don't want to make it look worse like to darken or lighten the color.
There is a scratch on the rear right moulding. I don't know how it got there or what happened. Is there anything I can do able it? It is quite noticeable. I was thinking black Sharpie but color probably too dark. I can replace it but it might cost a lot and eventually get scratch again Any advice?
I am really **** about my car and this type of thing drives me nuts. Whether a rock nicked it or someone being careless in a parking lot caused it or something else altogether, it's still really frustrating. I'm surprised no one has mentioned trying something like this first (before trying a Sharpie or a heat gun heaven forbid lol):
The brand is Mothers. The item is called Back to Black Trim and Plastic Restorer. Now it might just cover it over and you may have to reapply it but it would still be a better option (just my opinion) to start with. I had a BMW X1 before my GLC and it had the same kind of textured black plastic trim. And whether it was wax residue that was almost impossible to get off or other imperfections that cropped up, I found that this product really helps. There are other brands that offer similar versions of the same thing as well. Good luck!
I am really **** about my car and this type of thing drives me nuts. Whether a rock nicked it or someone being careless in a parking lot caused it or something else altogether, it's still really frustrating. I'm surprised no one has mentioned trying something like this first (before trying a Sharpie or a heat gun heaven forbid lol):
The brand is Mothers. The item is called Back to Black Trim and Plastic Restorer. Now it might just cover it over and you may have to reapply it but it would still be a better option (just my opinion) to start with. I had a BMW X1 before my GLC and it had the same kind of textured black plastic trim. And whether it was wax residue that was almost impossible to get off or other imperfections that cropped up, I found that this product really helps. There are other brands that offer similar versions of the same thing as well. Good luck!
You can try that but I've used that in the past for trim after cleaning the car and it looks good. It's a temporary fix if it even covers the scratch, which I doubt it will. A scratch in plastic, especially matte or textured, is a PITA to hide. The heat gun is the only thing I've found that makes any difference but you have to be extremely careful. The heat gun brings the oils in the plastic back to the surface which makes the scratch (which is lighter in color) appear to darken up. There is no surface application liquid that's going to remove the scratch that I'm aware of and if you do come across one, please let me know.
You can try that but I've used that in the past for trim after cleaning the car and it looks good. It's a temporary fix if it even covers the scratch, which I doubt it will. A scratch in plastic, especially matte or textured, is a PITA to hide. The heat gun is the only thing I've found that makes any difference but you have to be extremely careful. The heat gun brings the oils in the plastic back to the surface which makes the scratch (which is lighter in color) appear to darken up. There is no surface application liquid that's going to remove the scratch that I'm aware of and if you do come across one, please let me know.
Thanks for the feedback. I know it's always hard to tell from a photo, but on all the marks (including the ones to the left of the main "scratch") you can still see the pebbling in the plastic through them. So it makes me wonder just how deep any of the marks really go (again including the most noticeable one). That's why I would definitely suggest they start with the least invasive and/or risky option rather than jumping straight to a heat gun or a magic marker (honestly it pains me to hear that one and it isn't even my car lol).
Here are a before and after picture of plastic turn signals on a bike I restored, I sanded down the parts, and then applied gentle and even heat, did not use a heat gun, this was actually a small propane torch, but again being careful to not stay in one spot long, and move the heat around you can get good results, they use heat guns to stretch vinyl wrap when doing a car, it’s not going to kill that trim piece unless you heat one spot for a long time,, or leave it and wait for the next one.....
Last edited by GateKeeper; 09-11-2020 at 01:52 PM.
A heat gun will darken the plastic, you will end up with a darker blob so you'd have to do all 4 arches for them to look even
Thanks for providing another take on this heat gun suggestion I keep seeing. I'm not sure why some folks jump to what seems to be (to me anyway--and admittedly I've never owned a heat gun or been a DIY project type of person) one of the more extreme options for addressing these marks on the molding. If I have a nice vehicle and baby it (which I do) the last thing I would ever consider doing is taking a Sharpie or a heat gun to it if there are multiple other options to try before going to those extremes. That's why I had earlier suggested trying a product like Mother's Back to Black. I also use a lot of Griot's Garage products which I really like, and I'm sure they probably offer something the OP could try for this too. They also have a number you can call for free car care advice, and even though they will of course suggest Griot's products...they often have valuable suggestions. The OP could also try going to a detail shop and asking for their input if the "over the counter" options don't work.
Hmm. the paint shoudn't be peeling on your car SigP232. It's not normal. I'm not sue about the heat gun, but if you think it works okay...
ParjAS the people who suggested the heat gun (which I still think is overkill) were doing it in regards to the OP's thread about the marks on the plastic trim of their wheel well. For some reason SigP232 shared their issue with the peeling panel near their sunroof in the middle of this thread instead of starting their own thread to seek advice. No one suggested a heat gun as a remedy for that issue, but I understand the confusion since basically two different problems are presented as part of the same thread.
Here are a before and after picture of plastic turn signals on a bike I restored, I sanded down the parts, and then applied gentle and even heat, did not use a heat gun, this was actually a small propane torch, but again being careful to not stay in one spot long, and move the heat around you can get good results, they use heat guns to stretch vinyl wrap when doing a car, it’s not going to kill that trim piece unless you heat one spot for a long time,, or leave it and wait for the next one.....
Wow! That turned out really good. Thanks for sharing.
Here is the closeup of the scratch. Do you still it is repairable? Is it pretty sure that it was caused by door ding? Maybe consider lucky it is not on the paint door panel.
Speaking of repairing.. I have been using CarPro PERL to dress the tire. Do you think it will help in masking the scratch? Is such product suitable for body moulding and all these plastic trim around the bottom of the car?
ParjAS the people who suggested the heat gun (which I still think is overkill) were doing it in regards to the OP's thread about the marks on the plastic trim of their wheel well. For some reason SigP232 shared their issue with the peeling panel near their sunroof in the middle of this thread instead of starting their own thread to seek advice. No one suggested a heat gun as a remedy for that issue, but I understand the confusion since basically two different problems are presented as part of the same thread.
Here is the closeup of the scratch. Do you still it is repairable? Is it pretty sure that it was caused by door ding? Maybe consider lucky it is not on the paint door panel.
Speaking of repairing.. I have been using CarPro PERL to dress the tire. Do you think it will help in masking the scratch? Is such product suitable for body moulding and all these plastic trim around the bottom of the car?
Looks more like rocks did it to me rather than a door ding. The lines seem to look like something was moving fairly quickly. And they are really thin.
Even after seeing your latest photo, I still stand by my original suggestion of starting with something tame and safe for that surface like Mother's Back to Black. The marks look like they're on the surface of the trim rather than scraped deep into it. As I've said before, why wouldn't you want to start with the least risky option? It's like $6 and you should be able to find it at most Walmarts or most auto parts stores. When you apply it (approximately one to three coats) and rub it in a little with a cloth, it leaves kind of a satiny finish that basically blends much better with the molding than tire shine would but is generally enough to hide the imperfections. I've used it on the exact plastic molding you're talking about on my GLC and on the X1 I had before it and have been pleased with the results. I've never tried the product you mentioned, but when you said you use it on your tires the first thing I thought was that it might be too glossy. But then when I checked out your link it makes it sound like you can safely use CarPro PERL on exterior plastic and that it has a satiny finish too. So try that since it sounds like you're already comfortable with the product. Or call the place you bought it from first and ask them if it's safe for the scenario you'd be using it for if that makes you feel better. And please let us know if it helped.
1. whoever has been proposing a Heat Gun on that trim - that's whacked out for this type of plastic - forget about it.
2. Yes - the use of a Trim Conditioner will "help" reduce the "look" - forget about that Mother's cr*p - we tested 14 different trim conditioners in our Collision Center - both to use on new black plastic trim - and to "restore" faded black trim - the #1 by huge margin was Car Guy's Plastic Restorer - also makes a great tire "shine" protectant - 8 oz is almost a Lifetime Supply for personal use - a little "dab" goes a long way - I have my detail guy's use this for my new deliveries on G's + AMG GLS/GLE's, etc - heck if you don't like how it works out _ Amazon returnable within 30 days for full refund:
3. If it really-really bugs you - the replacement cost of that trim piece - I "think" is like Parts cost $120
3. On the front roof panel - yes, replaceable under New Mercedes Warranty - not covered by CPO warranty - frankly the Best Fix is for a competent body shop to lightly sand and then they re-shoot in place with "better" clear coat for like $60-$80 - the OE spec clear coat on that piece is not-that-rugged - and body shop respray will not only look perfect - but with that respray you won't have the problem come up again down the road.
09-09-2020, 08:09 PM
