Replacing Burmester amp
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Replacing Burmester amp
Hi All,
I am looking for some help on replacing the burmester amp on 17 GLC.
My amp stopped working after water got into the right side of the truck area. Dealer diagnosis says the amplifier is shorted.
Do you guys know if it is easy to replace the factory burmester amp with a used burmester amp from ebay ($300 ish)?
I am looking for some help on replacing the burmester amp on 17 GLC.
My amp stopped working after water got into the right side of the truck area. Dealer diagnosis says the amplifier is shorted.
Do you guys know if it is easy to replace the factory burmester amp with a used burmester amp from ebay ($300 ish)?
#3
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Suffern, NY
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2020 GLC300 & 2009 SL550 (previously had 1999 CLK / 2006 E500 / 2011 GL450)
If the replacement item is the same MB part number, it should be an easy swap (no coding required).
I don't know where the AMP is, but if it's in the trunk (as they usually are), get the part # and an idea of what it looks like and see if you can find it in your car. Usually most electronic modules are just bolted down with a couple of bolts and have a wiring harness or two attached to them -- literally plug and play if you're doing a drop-in replacement of like-for-like.
I don't know where the AMP is, but if it's in the trunk (as they usually are), get the part # and an idea of what it looks like and see if you can find it in your car. Usually most electronic modules are just bolted down with a couple of bolts and have a wiring harness or two attached to them -- literally plug and play if you're doing a drop-in replacement of like-for-like.
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
If the replacement item is the same MB part number, it should be an easy swap (no coding required).
I don't know where the AMP is, but if it's in the trunk (as they usually are), get the part # and an idea of what it looks like and see if you can find it in your car. Usually most electronic modules are just bolted down with a couple of bolts and have a wiring harness or two attached to them -- literally plug and play if you're doing a drop-in replacement of like-for-like.
I don't know where the AMP is, but if it's in the trunk (as they usually are), get the part # and an idea of what it looks like and see if you can find it in your car. Usually most electronic modules are just bolted down with a couple of bolts and have a wiring harness or two attached to them -- literally plug and play if you're doing a drop-in replacement of like-for-like.
History-- My 17 GLC's audio stopped producing any sound a couple months ago after I transported fruit trees in my trunk and water got under the trunk floor. My suspicion before taking the trunk apart was that the amplifier is shorted and destroyed. However today after I remove the trunk liner and the amp, it doesn't look like the amplifier has any signs of water damage (Picture below): The top cover of the amp is a whole piece of cast aluminum, and does not seem water can easily get in it from top. The wiring harnesses are also well protected and doesn't have any sign of water stain. The only observation is that when I turn on the audio, the fan on the amp is not running. Is that enough an evidence to proof the amp is dead?
The second picture is the power inverter that sits next to the Burmester Amplifier. Is that possible the power inverter got destroyed by water as well? Thanks all for your inputs!
#5
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2020 GLC300 & 2009 SL550 (previously had 1999 CLK / 2006 E500 / 2011 GL450)
Sorry, impossible to tell via pictures. One or two exposures to water usually doesn't leave much of a visual trace, but can short electronics quickly.. I assume you already checked the fuses too, just to make sure the surge didn't blow them too (or that this wasn't just a blown fuse)..
Dealer diagnosis would have been via STAR so the computer would have told them which part(s) weren't responding on the CANBUS. So that would be the first thing they would replace, but then they would rescan it -- it's possible other parts may show up as being defective at that time.
Dealer diagnosis would have been via STAR so the computer would have told them which part(s) weren't responding on the CANBUS. So that would be the first thing they would replace, but then they would rescan it -- it's possible other parts may show up as being defective at that time.
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks! You were right-- When I remove the bottom cover of the amp, the PCB inside was badly corroded. So Amp it is. Just ordered a used amp from ebay and hope a replacement can solve the issue.
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#9
Amplifier
Hi, would you please tell me where is the location of the amp. I would appreciate it!
[QUOTE=gainful;8371393]Thanks! I was able to remove the trunk liner and the amplifier today. Here is the finding--Please help me diagnose here:
History-- My 17 GLC's audio stopped producing any sound a couple months ago after I transported fruit trees in my trunk and water got under the trunk floor. My suspicion before taking the trunk apart was that the amplifier is shorted and destroyed. However today after I remove the trunk liner and the amp, it doesn't look like the amplifier has any signs of water damage (Picture below): The top cover of the amp is a whole piece of cast aluminum, and does not seem water can easily get in it from top. The wiring harnesses are also well protected and doesn't have any sign of water stain. The only observation is that when I turn on the audio, the fan on the amp is not running. Is that enough an evidence to proof the amp is dead?
The second picture is the power inverter that sits next to the Burmester Amplifier. Is that possible the power inverter got destroyed by water as well? Thanks all for your inputs!
[QUOTE=gainful;8371393]Thanks! I was able to remove the trunk liner and the amplifier today. Here is the finding--Please help me diagnose here:
History-- My 17 GLC's audio stopped producing any sound a couple months ago after I transported fruit trees in my trunk and water got under the trunk floor. My suspicion before taking the trunk apart was that the amplifier is shorted and destroyed. However today after I remove the trunk liner and the amp, it doesn't look like the amplifier has any signs of water damage (Picture below): The top cover of the amp is a whole piece of cast aluminum, and does not seem water can easily get in it from top. The wiring harnesses are also well protected and doesn't have any sign of water stain. The only observation is that when I turn on the audio, the fan on the amp is not running. Is that enough an evidence to proof the amp is dead?
The second picture is the power inverter that sits next to the Burmester Amplifier. Is that possible the power inverter got destroyed by water as well? Thanks all for your inputs!
#10
i want to know this pleaseee i got water in mine and want to know id dealer needs to program the new amp.
thanks!!!
thanks!!!
#11
Don’t need to reprogram a used amplifier with same part #
My amplifier got water inside it because I spilled a good amount at the back right of my trunk from my wetsuit after surfing. The sound stopped working and the EQ settings did not save after exiting the settings page. I got a used amplifier off of eBay for under $300 with the same part number (although it was originally taken from a 2015 S550). You have to remove the rear trunk liner and the trunk sill as well as a few bolts to remove the amplifier, but it was effectively plug and play when I replaced it with the new-to-me used Burmester amp from eBay (no reprogramming required). I hope this helps anyone dealing with a similar situation; cheers!
New amplifier plugged in.
Old amplifier opened up to see how bad the water damage is.
Old waterlogged amp front view
Old water-logged amplifier with slight signs of oxidation and rust
#12
I understand that this answer is quite a bit of time after this post, but I want to put it here since I didn’t see one but went through the experience.
My amplifier got water inside it because I spilled a good amount at the back right of my trunk from my wetsuit after surfing. The sound stopped working and the EQ settings did not save after exiting the settings page. I got a used amplifier off of eBay for under $300 with the same part number (although it was originally taken from a 2015 S550). You have to remove the rear trunk liner and the trunk sill as well as a few bolts to remove the amplifier, but it was effectively plug and play when I replaced it with the new-to-me used Burmester amp from eBay (no reprogramming required). I hope this helps anyone dealing with a similar situation; cheers!
New amplifier plugged in.
Old amplifier opened up to see how bad the water damage is.
Old waterlogged amp front view
Old water-logged amplifier with slight signs of oxidation and rust
My amplifier got water inside it because I spilled a good amount at the back right of my trunk from my wetsuit after surfing. The sound stopped working and the EQ settings did not save after exiting the settings page. I got a used amplifier off of eBay for under $300 with the same part number (although it was originally taken from a 2015 S550). You have to remove the rear trunk liner and the trunk sill as well as a few bolts to remove the amplifier, but it was effectively plug and play when I replaced it with the new-to-me used Burmester amp from eBay (no reprogramming required). I hope this helps anyone dealing with a similar situation; cheers!
New amplifier plugged in.
Old amplifier opened up to see how bad the water damage is.
Old waterlogged amp front view
Old water-logged amplifier with slight signs of oxidation and rust
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mikapen (01-28-2024)
#13
For context, I think the spill may have happened several days before it stopped working, but I do agree that there’a a good chance a previous owner got water on it. I did actually notice that the sound quality/clarity of the highs increased when installing the new one, so that would help to confirm that the amp was already somewhat damaged.
#14
I am currently going round and round with the dealership - they advise the units are VIN coded "to prevent theft" and the units need to be VIN coded. They won't code my used amp I found and the new units are out of stock EVERYWHERE, and also cost 780$. I am trying to find a resouce to code my replacement amp but it's proving to be a pain
#15
I am currently going round and round with the dealership - they advise the units are VIN coded "to prevent theft" and the units need to be VIN coded. They won't code my used amp I found and the new units are out of stock EVERYWHERE, and also cost 780$. I am trying to find a resouce to code my replacement amp but it's proving to be a pain
#16
I have actually purchased two from ebay- one was the wrong model (2015/16) I think and I have a second identical to my original in my hands now- it would not activate or be recognized by the car when I plugged it in. There is a small chance the dealership has no idea what is wrong since they made no mention of the VIN coding when they made the initial diagnosis. I'm a bit salty about that actually. The seller of the second module actually called me when I submitted the refund request and we had a nice long chat about the issue- really a nice guy and he has had experience with the dealerships claiming the amps are "one time use". It's all kind of ridiculous since the amps are sold out everywhere with no production/delivery date available. The lack of support for a 7 year old car is a bit shameful on MB's part. I am going to try one local shop that might be able to do the flash. If that fails then I'm going to take a deep breath and brace for the pain at the dealership-