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If the replacement item is the same MB part number, it should be an easy swap (no coding required).
I don't know where the AMP is, but if it's in the trunk (as they usually are), get the part # and an idea of what it looks like and see if you can find it in your car. Usually most electronic modules are just bolted down with a couple of bolts and have a wiring harness or two attached to them -- literally plug and play if you're doing a drop-in replacement of like-for-like.
If the replacement item is the same MB part number, it should be an easy swap (no coding required).
I don't know where the AMP is, but if it's in the trunk (as they usually are), get the part # and an idea of what it looks like and see if you can find it in your car. Usually most electronic modules are just bolted down with a couple of bolts and have a wiring harness or two attached to them -- literally plug and play if you're doing a drop-in replacement of like-for-like.
Thanks! I was able to remove the trunk liner and the amplifier today. Here is the finding--Please help me diagnose here:
History-- My 17 GLC's audio stopped producing any sound a couple months ago after I transported fruit trees in my trunk and water got under the trunk floor. My suspicion before taking the trunk apart was that the amplifier is shorted and destroyed. However today after I remove the trunk liner and the amp, it doesn't look like the amplifier has any signs of water damage (Picture below): The top cover of the amp is a whole piece of cast aluminum, and does not seem water can easily get in it from top. The wiring harnesses are also well protected and doesn't have any sign of water stain. The only observation is that when I turn on the audio, the fan on the amp is not running. Is that enough an evidence to proof the amp is dead?
The second picture is the power inverter that sits next to the Burmester Amplifier. Is that possible the power inverter got destroyed by water as well? Thanks all for your inputs!
Sorry, impossible to tell via pictures. One or two exposures to water usually doesn't leave much of a visual trace, but can short electronics quickly.. I assume you already checked the fuses too, just to make sure the surge didn't blow them too (or that this wasn't just a blown fuse)..
Dealer diagnosis would have been via STAR so the computer would have told them which part(s) weren't responding on the CANBUS. So that would be the first thing they would replace, but then they would rescan it -- it's possible other parts may show up as being defective at that time.
Thanks! You were right-- When I remove the bottom cover of the amp, the PCB inside was badly corroded. So Amp it is. Just ordered a used amp from ebay and hope a replacement can solve the issue.
Thanks! You were right-- When I remove the bottom cover of the amp, the PCB inside was badly corroded. So Amp it is. Just ordered a used amp from ebay and hope a replacement can solve the issue.
Do you have, any picture how find the amplifier Burmaster?
Were you able to change amplifier by yourself, or did you have to take it to the dealership? What I mean is that does replacing new (used) amplifier need coding?
Hi, would you please tell me where is the location of the amp. I would appreciate it!
[QUOTE=gainful;8371393]Thanks! I was able to remove the trunk liner and the amplifier today. Here is the finding--Please help me diagnose here:
History-- My 17 GLC's audio stopped producing any sound a couple months ago after I transported fruit trees in my trunk and water got under the trunk floor. My suspicion before taking the trunk apart was that the amplifier is shorted and destroyed. However today after I remove the trunk liner and the amp, it doesn't look like the amplifier has any signs of water damage (Picture below): The top cover of the amp is a whole piece of cast aluminum, and does not seem water can easily get in it from top. The wiring harnesses are also well protected and doesn't have any sign of water stain. The only observation is that when I turn on the audio, the fan on the amp is not running. Is that enough an evidence to proof the amp is dead?
The second picture is the power inverter that sits next to the Burmester Amplifier. Is that possible the power inverter got destroyed by water as well? Thanks all for your inputs!
i want to know this pleaseee i got water in mine and want to know id dealer needs to program the new amp.
thanks!!!
Originally Posted by gainful
Thanks! You were right-- When I remove the bottom cover of the amp, the PCB inside was badly corroded. So Amp it is. Just ordered a used amp from ebay and hope a replacement can solve the issue.
Don’t need to reprogram a used amplifier with same part #
Originally Posted by abel007
i want to know this pleaseee i got water in mine and want to know id dealer needs to program the new amp.
thanks!!!
I understand that this answer is quite a bit of time after this post, but I want to put it here since I didn’t see one but went through the experience.
My amplifier got water inside it because I spilled a good amount at the back right of my trunk from my wetsuit after surfing. The sound stopped working and the EQ settings did not save after exiting the settings page. I got a used amplifier off of eBay for under $300 with the same part number (although it was originally taken from a 2015 S550). You have to remove the rear trunk liner and the trunk sill as well as a few bolts to remove the amplifier, but it was effectively plug and play when I replaced it with the new-to-me used Burmester amp from eBay (no reprogramming required). I hope this helps anyone dealing with a similar situation; cheers! New amplifier plugged in. Old amplifier opened up to see how bad the water damage is. Old waterlogged amp front view Old water-logged amplifier with slight signs of oxidation and rust
I understand that this answer is quite a bit of time after this post, but I want to put it here since I didn’t see one but went through the experience.
My amplifier got water inside it because I spilled a good amount at the back right of my trunk from my wetsuit after surfing. The sound stopped working and the EQ settings did not save after exiting the settings page. I got a used amplifier off of eBay for under $300 with the same part number (although it was originally taken from a 2015 S550). You have to remove the rear trunk liner and the trunk sill as well as a few bolts to remove the amplifier, but it was effectively plug and play when I replaced it with the new-to-me used Burmester amp from eBay (no reprogramming required). I hope this helps anyone dealing with a similar situation; cheers! New amplifier plugged in. Old amplifier opened up to see how bad the water damage is. Old waterlogged amp front view Old water-logged amplifier with slight signs of oxidation and rust
Not an expert on this stuff but it looks like that the amp has had water intrusion for quite a while. I don't think it would look like that from a 1 time event. JMO
Not an expert on this stuff but it looks like that the amp has had water intrusion for quite a while. I don't think it would look like that from a 1 time event. JMO
For context, I think the spill may have happened several days before it stopped working, but I do agree that there’a a good chance a previous owner got water on it. I did actually notice that the sound quality/clarity of the highs increased when installing the new one, so that would help to confirm that the amp was already somewhat damaged.
I am currently going round and round with the dealership - they advise the units are VIN coded "to prevent theft" and the units need to be VIN coded. They won't code my used amp I found and the new units are out of stock EVERYWHERE, and also cost 780$. I am trying to find a resouce to code my replacement amp but it's proving to be a pain
I am currently going round and round with the dealership - they advise the units are VIN coded "to prevent theft" and the units need to be VIN coded. They won't code my used amp I found and the new units are out of stock EVERYWHERE, and also cost 780$. I am trying to find a resouce to code my replacement amp but it's proving to be a pain
I’m not 100% sure about your vehicle, but my 2016 with the Burmester amp was a simple plug and play, with no VIN coding required. I personally would recommend trying eBay for a used one, as I spent less than $300 and about an hour to replace it myself.
I have actually purchased two from ebay- one was the wrong model (2015/16) I think and I have a second identical to my original in my hands now- it would not activate or be recognized by the car when I plugged it in. There is a small chance the dealership has no idea what is wrong since they made no mention of the VIN coding when they made the initial diagnosis. I'm a bit salty about that actually. The seller of the second module actually called me when I submitted the refund request and we had a nice long chat about the issue- really a nice guy and he has had experience with the dealerships claiming the amps are "one time use". It's all kind of ridiculous since the amps are sold out everywhere with no production/delivery date available. The lack of support for a 7 year old car is a bit shameful on MB's part. I am going to try one local shop that might be able to do the flash. If that fails then I'm going to take a deep breath and brace for the pain at the dealership-
I was hoping that too- but apparently anything '17 and newer is locked and needs the dealer computer to do it. The dealerships that I went to were unwilling to work with a used part. If you can find a solid good independent shop that has the current software/systems they could possibly make the update/code the piece.
I was hoping that too- but apparently anything '17 and newer is locked and needs the dealer computer to do it. The dealerships that I went to were unwilling to work with a used part. If you can find a solid good independent shop that has the current software/systems they could possibly make the update/code the piece.
Have you verified that “anything ‘17 and newer is locked and needs the dealer”?
did you try to replace your amp with the exact part number shown on the label?
I was hoping that too- but apparently anything '17 and newer is locked and needs the dealer computer to do it. The dealerships that I went to were unwilling to work with a used part. If you can find a solid good independent shop that has the current software/systems they could possibly make the update/code the piece.
Maybe it's worth dropping a message to site sponsor Benz Ninja to see if that's something he can do, and how much it would cost? I've never used his services, but he seems to be a straight shooter.
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