2016 GLC300 Turbo charger failed according to dealer just after B service and 48K mil
Is it common for this kind of part to fail a day after service? I paid $1000 for service and the next day they want me to pay for Turbocharger replacement! Such a difficult situation. Please recommend what should I do.
How was the car running before you took it in? Did you have a Check Engine Light (CEL)? How is the car running after your service? Do you have a CEL?
I would take your car to a trusted independent mechanic specializing in MB (or European) cars for a second opinion. If necessary, have your car scanned for fault codes to determine what (if anything) is going on with your car.
Thank you for the quick reply!
Last edited by learnn; Jul 6, 2022 at 09:03 AM.

Thank you for the quick reply!
I'm a technician and this is seen periodically.
Being that you just had plugs and an air filter replacement, I would first check the vacuum line going to the actuator and make sure it didn't accidentally get damage (leaking).
When the fault occurs and the check engine lamp is illuminated, it USUALLY drives normally.
Your low mileage could actually be indicative of your problem. Rubber can dry-rot from long periods of not being used and worse so if I'm a salty environment (like near the ocean).
What usually happens is the vacuum diaphragm will develop leakage and cannot control the turbocharger's waste gate as well as it should. This deviation is noted and causes the check engine lamp to illuminate, even if deviation is minute.
The problem is that Mercedes-Benz doesn't sell the vacuum actuator separately. It would be a very simple exchange process to swap out the vacuum actuator, as long as the actuator arm didn't require adjustment.
I think Mercedes-Benz doesn't sell the actuator separately, because there could be a chance of damage to the turbocharger if the waste gate was faulty. Basically, replace the entire component and avoid a client from having more issues and needing to return for more (related) work.
Sorry for the bad news, but until there an actuator available separately, it is what we have to do.
Also, servicing your vehicle at the dealer regularly should help you get 'good will' help. There are different ways they can do this. Sometimes they'll cover the labor, sometimes the parts, and sometimes everything with the client paying a portion of it (like an insurance deductible).
1) What should I check next on under boost issue ?
2) How do I deal with the oil situation ? Could the be linked ?
Thanks everyone !!!

1) What should I check next on under boost issue ?
2) How do I deal with the oil situation ? Could the be linked ?
Thanks everyone !!!
As far as rebuilding the turbo, it may not have needed that.
You can see the vacuum actuator linkage move and most of the time it will still move smoothly. That's where people get confused about how it can still be faulty. If the rebuilders don't know the diaphragm is faulty, they may not replace it....
Even using Xentry, the actuator will almost always pass the guided test.
So, what I do and what I recommend anyone else does, is carefully remove the vacuum hose at the actuator. Then slowly apply vacuum with a manual vacuum pump. Once the linkage fully moved, maintain the vacuum applied to it (don't add any more or release any) and watch for the linkage to move back to its original position.
That is the clear indicator that the diaphragm is leaking and the source of the concern.
This is why I stated on my previous post that it's unfortunate that we can't just get the actuator separately. Would save so much time and cost.
Additionally, if the actuator does hold vacuum and the linkage doesn't move back on it's own, then you should check for leak tightness of the charged air system (leaks between the turbocharger and intake manifold-to- block connections. Can be done by smoke testing.
Last edited by redsly; Aug 18, 2022 at 06:51 PM.


