When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Research done.
instead of F106N & adapter. I will buy new designed, F106SX. Its position can be turn to any direction with the rubber o-ring and washer. Remain shorter and cheaper without the adapter. A hose can be attached to the short nipple. All look good.
https:/www.fumotousa.com/f106sx.html#product-details-tab-s
The oil drain valve is not new to me, I had used 2 Fumoto valves for my previous 2 SUVs a decade ago, then after I got Mityvac oil extractor, I just pumped oil out through the dipstick on all my vehicles even with Fumoto valve.
Now 2022 Glc's M264 engine has NO dipstick, so I am installing a drain valve again.
BTW, I use the plastic ramps to raise the front. Extra stands for additional safety.
Last edited by sn202020; May 21, 2025 at 03:27 PM.
Aftermarket drain valves are nonsense as evidenced in this thread.
I guess they were trying to make oil change easier by simply turning the valve, like a tap of a sink. I guess that is especially helpful if they drive high miles and have to say change the oil every few months.
Research done.
instead of F106N & adapter. I will buy new designed, F106SX. Its position can be turn to any direction with the rubber o-ring and washer. Remain shorter and cheaper without the adapter. A hose can be attached to the short nipple. All look good.
https:/www.fumotousa.com/f106sx.html#product-details-tab-s
The oil drain valve is not new to me, I had used 2 Fumato valves for my previous 2 SUVs a decade ago, then after I got Mityvac oil extractor, I just pumped oil out through the dipstick on all my vehicles even with Fumato valve.
Now 2022 Glc's M264 engine has NO dipstick, so I am installing a drain valve again.
BTW, I use the plastic ramps to raise the front. Extra stands for additional safety.
......
The oil drain valve is not new to me, I had used 2 Fumoto valves for my previous 2 SUVs a decade ago, then after I got Mityvac oil extractor, I just pumped oil out through the dipstick on all my vehicles even with Fumoto valve.
Now 2022 Glc's M264 engine has NO dipstick, so I am installing a drain valve again.
BTW, I use the plastic ramps to raise the front. Extra stands for additional safety.
Personally, I wouldn't use either method.
The Mityvac, or any other dipstick extractor, won't remove any solids or particulates that settle to the bottom of the sump.
Similarly, unless the sump is level, it won't fully drain with the same stuff left behind. Ramps kind of defeat that principle.
Unfortunately, this either means a lift, or in my case a service pit, to get the most complete and effective oil change.
On the other hand, taking it to a shop, doesn't necessarily mean that they will let the oil drain completely by waiting several minutes.
My oil changes has just the passenger side jacked up therefore the Fumoto is pointed downward at least -15 degrees which must help with drainage thru the Fumoto. I have tested how much the valve "holds" back by removing the valve after normal fumoto draining. I found no more than 1.5 tablespoons. That maybe enough for some to proclaim that fumoto is not “effective because it's not 100%". True, in this case, it's 99.63%. Some additional personal decisions include performing oil changes at 5K intervals and within 30 minutes of driving it a minimum of 30 minutes i.e. "hot". The Fumoto valve enables that safety of not getting burned by the oil and changing it well before settling. I can say that I'm very comfortable with my methods as being effective enough.
My oil changes has just the passenger side jacked up therefore the Fumoto is pointed downward at least -15 degrees which must help with drainage thru the Fumoto. I have tested how much the valve "holds" back by removing the valve after normal fumoto draining. I found no more than 1.5 tablespoons. That maybe enough for some to proclaim that fumoto is not “effective because it's not 100%". True, in this case, it's 99.63%. Some additional personal decisions include performing oil changes at 5K intervals and within 30 minutes of driving it a minimum of 30 minutes i.e. "hot". The Fumoto valve enables that safety of not getting burned by the oil and changing it well before settling. I can say that I'm very comfortable with my methods as being effective enough.
The other benefit of the valve is so it doesn't go splashing everywhere on the garage floor and you can control the flow of the drain.
Personally, I wouldn't use either method.
The Mityvac, or any other dipstick extractor, won't remove any solids or particulates that settle to the bottom of the sump.
Similarly, unless the sump is level, it won't fully drain with the same stuff left behind. Ramps kind of defeat that principle.
Unfortunately, this either means a lift, or in my case a service pit, to get the most complete and effective oil change.
On the other hand, taking it to a shop, doesn't necessarily mean that they will let the oil drain completely by waiting several minutes.
We do like to DIY and not take it in, maybe we can consider a Quickjack or something, forum member JettaRed also mentioned a compact sized lift that can be installed in a garage, I forgot which one it was.
The other benefit of the valve is so it doesn't go splashing everywhere on the garage floor and you can control the flow of the drain.
A solution to this is to crack open the drain screw, and not remove it, until the desired flow rate is achieved. Then remove the old oil filter and install the new while the oil is draining. After the topside work is done, the drain screw can be removed without causing splashing. Wait for the oil to start dribbling, install and torque a new drain screw + washer, install underbody shield, fill oil and done.
A solution to this is to crack open the drain screw, and not remove it, until the desired flow rate is achieved. Then remove the old oil filter and install the new while the oil is draining. After the topside work is done, the drain screw can be removed without causing splashing. Wait for the oil to start dribbling, install and torque a new drain screw + washer, install underbody shield, fill oil and done.
I see that's slower than flow rate of opening a Fumoto valve but more importantly in my case, the oil is too hot (>165F) to be messing with the drain bolt in the first place. Also, no cleanup when I hose it straight into my 12 quart FloTool recycling jug.
Everybody has their way and I center mine around minimizing time and waste. I typically only need to use 1 full sheet of paper towel thru the entire oil change.
I see that's slower than flow rate of opening a Fumoto valve but more importantly in my case, the oil is too hot (>165F) to be messing with the drain bolt in the first place. Also, no cleanup when I hose it straight into my 12 quart FloTool recycling jug.
Everybody has their way and I center mine around minimizing time and waste. I typically only need to use 1 full sheet of paper towel thru the entire oil change.
Good point as well, the heat is an issue, I seen those wait till 140f before draining to lessen the risk.
The most annoying part are the 8mm hex screws holding the splash shield. I've resorted to lying on a creeper with milwaukee M12 ratchet. It's enough torque with stripping if you use common sense and not lay on the trigger but sneak up on the last few revs. You can feel and hear the resistance. The creeper is so much easier to zip around rather than body scooting. Is there better way without a lift?
I put the front tires on the plastic ramps.
6.5 inches height.
I have ramps and jack stands. I prefer using the floor jack with AGM Jack Rod on the lift point behind front passenger wheel. As a secondary safety, a jack stand under the pad under front radiator area. The jack Rod is a safety in case the jack fails. Installs in seconds. It's time saver because I don't have to reposition the floor jack. So the process is jack the side up, pop the Jack Rod on, and slide a Big Red Torin jack stand in the front.
My problem with ramps is that it doesn't angle the pan optimally. I have to be more careful of stopping at the perfect point of the ramps and it points the car into the garage where there's less working space. I'm still not sure about the degradation of plastic.
I ignore some remaining oil (5%~15%) due to the tilted oil pan, because I change oil every 3k miles, frequent enough. And I use 5w40. Not 20 or 30.
My understanding is 5W-40 definitely offers higher operating temperatures than the other 2 grades and considered for heavy duty service. My application is primarily highway conditions in mild Piedmont Virginia to coastal North Carolina climate with completely normal driving. I stick with MB spec 229.51/229.52 5W-30. I'm comfortable with 5000 mile interval.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
Mercedes Teases Updated EQS With Steer-By-Wire and a Yoke
Slideshow: The 2027 update adds a fully digital steering system, revised styling, and potential charging upgrades as the company looks to revive interest in the luxury EV.
