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Man that sucks! During my first month of ownership the service advisor put more miles on it than I did but I was never stranded. Hopefully it's something they can easily identify and fix so you'l be able to have confidence in the car again.
900 miles on the clock. No issues ..until I tried to start it this evening.
I had power as the displays light up showing various error messages, but no engine crank.
will report back when I know the issue ...
Use a 10mm wrench to disconnect the battery under the driver's seat and reboot. 90% guaranteed to start. Had this happen to us twice in the first 4 months, then software updates solved it. Sad to see this is still an issue for some.
I was totally considering the battery discount idea but had no tools on hand. Also how easy is the access under the seat? Much carpet etc to remove? I’ll just leave a ratchet in the trunk if I have to.
I was totally considering the battery discount idea but had no tools on hand. Also how easy is the access under the seat? Much carpet etc to remove? I’ll just leave a ratchet in the trunk if I have to.
Very easy to access - once your raise and move the seat forward fully you just pull up a plastic cover in the floor. A 10mm open end or small adjustable wrench works fine.
My new GLE got a flatbed ride tonight..
900 miles on the clock. .
I feel your pain...ours had to get a ride the first week we had it due to a "random misfire" issue. It's been trouble free ever since (knock on wood) with 16k miles on it now.
I have stashed a small tool kit which includes a 10mm nut driver and a flashlight in the spare tire well. This is the first car in 20 years that I've felt compelled to carry a tool set.
I would be skeptical but doubt you'll get anything else in he way of an excuse. Having done electronics service for the last 40+ years, that sounds more to me like an "I don't know...it started fine for me" diversion.
New fuse panel installed an I’m good to go. Local dealer always has a loaner for me so if it breaks again I’ll get by. They gave me a 2020 GLS this time. Sucks to be me!
Very easy to access - once your raise and move the seat forward fully you just pull up a plastic cover in the floor. A 10mm open end or small adjustable wrench works fine.
Stupid question: I tried to do this today (not because of any issue), and while it is very easy to access, I wasn't sure which nut to remove. I assume it's the one marked "A" because of what looks like the black negative battery terminal cable underneath it, but the wrench head doesn't fit horizontally. I could only fit it vertically which doesn't give me much torque, and I wasn't able to budge it at all using moderate force. Wanted to double check that I'm doing the right thing before trying harder.
Bonus stupid question: What's the nut marked "B" for?
Stupid question: I tried to do this today (not because of any issue), and while it is very easy to access, I wasn't sure which nut to remove. I assume it's the one marked "A" because of what looks like the black negative battery terminal cable underneath it, but the wrench head doesn't fit horizontally. I could only fit it vertically which doesn't give me much torque, and I wasn't able to budge it at all using moderate force. Wanted to double check that I'm doing the right thing before trying harder.
Bonus stupid question: What's the nut marked "B" for?
What do you think about the idea of using a socket with wobble extension, rather than an adjustable wrench to remove the ground cable nut?
What do you think about the idea of using a socket with wobble extension, rather than an adjustable wrench to remove the ground cable nut?
I can certainly try, but I've read a few times on the forum that a regular 10mm wrench works fine so I'm not sure if I'm doing something wrong. I'm also a reasonably strong guy, so I figure if GregW's wife can do it I should be able to as well
I could be wrong, but the nut and bolt appear to be painted in white which makes me slightly concerned because I've read elsewhere on the forum of a production issue where ground terminals were accidentally painted over. The paint could also be why it's especially hard to loosen the nut.
I can certainly try, but I've read a few times on the forum that a regular 10mm wrench works fine so I'm not sure if I'm doing something wrong. I'm also a reasonably strong guy, so I figure if GregW's wife can do it I should be able to as well
I could be wrong, but the nut and bolt appear to be painted in white which makes me slightly concerned because I've read elsewhere on the forum of a production issue where ground terminals were accidentally painted over. The paint could also be why it's especially hard to loosen the nut.
I think they are talking about 10 mm wrench like this, which has a smaller "edge" so it will fit in the small area.
As for the paint, its not an issue if it is at the top of the nut and bolt. As long as the contact part (facing bottom) are bare metal.
The nut marked "B" is the one you want to loosen. Don't remove it, just a couple of turns to loosen it. Then pull the clamp off the battery terminal. You might have to wiggle it a little to get it off. Count to 10 and then put it back on. Don't be alarmed if you see a small spark coming off or going on, that's normal.
In an emergency, if you need to use a Crescent wrench or open end wrench like that you can use a screwdriver through the hole on opposite end for leverage. It’s not a good idea though because it’s easy to slip and ding the nut so a socket won’t fit.
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