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Well, after 31 months & 22k miles I thought I was immune, but got the “Starter batter critical” message twice in last 2 days, today while driving even though my wife drove it 45 minutes yesterday. This is how it often starts, right? Will get it in as soon as I can.
I’m sorry to hear that, Greg. I appreciated reading your posts back when we took delivery of our new 2020 GLE 450. I hope the new owner of our GLE is enjoying it now, as much as we are enjoying the 2020 Lincoln Nautilus we traded it for. At least I hope the new owners have warranty coverage and are closer to a dealer if it needs to be towed in again…
That should make Greg W's day! Yes, I can attest to the fact that there is no warning when the 48 volt goes, at least I never received one; although MercedesMe Connect indicated that the 12 volt is critical, even though it was the 48 volt. Ron, is MY 2020 belles like MY 2021?
Spell check got you…if belles is batteries I don’t know when they changed batteries or even if they did. It’s just an assumption or maybe something I picked up talking to the Dealer. All we know for certain is that GLE 48 volts started failing with build dates of late September/ early October 2020 model year 2021 US. New battery PN seems to be the fix.
Spell check got you…if belles is batteries I don’t know when they changed batteries or even if they did. It’s just an assumption or maybe something I picked up talking to the Dealer. All we know for certain is that GLE 48 volts started failing with build dates of late September/ early October 2020 model year 2021 US. New battery PN seems to be the fix.
LOL, it sure did. No it wasn't batteries. What I intended to ask is whether MY 2020 is beltless like MY 2021?
Thank you. That ruins a lame theory I was working on. It seems that all of the failed 48 volt battery reports on MY 2021 are basically the same: when it dies, the car becomes a 4,500 pound paper weight and needs to be hauled away on a flatbed (no way to charge or restart it); whereas, I thought some people reported they were sometimes able to get their MY 2020's restarted and sometimes even limp to the dealership. I was wondering what's different about the MY 2021 powertrain that might account for the difference.
Thank you. That ruins a lame theory I was working on. It seems that all of the failed 48 volt battery reports on MY 2021 are basically the same: when it dies, the car becomes a 4,500 pound paper weight and needs to be hauled away on a flatbed (no way to charge or restart it); whereas, I thought some people reported they were sometimes able to get their MY 2020's restarted and sometimes even limp to the dealership. I was wondering what's different about the MY 2021 powertrain that might account for the difference.
I only recall seeing one MY 2020 failure reported. A few failures would be normal like Tesla has had & 12 volts on occasion.
My best guess is that something was changed that created the failures…most likely in the circuit board that controls the battery functions.
I only recall seeing one MY 2020 failure reported. A few failures would be normal like Tesla has had & 12 volts on occasion.
My best guess is that something was changed that created the failures…most likely in the circuit board that controls the battery functions.
I think your 12 volt is going bad…not the 48 volt. I had that message with my 2020 and that’s what it was. My early warning was also the leveling feature working randomly after driving for a few miles. The 12v ran down while sitting (probably internal short) and then began to charge back while driving. It says starter battery because that’s the 12 volt in the 350 and prior Gen’s. Sloppy on MB’s part to not change the language since it’s been 3 years.
AFAIK there is no state of charge notice for the 48 volt…just a warning message in the DIC when it fails.
Thanks for the bit of encouragement. Car goes in next Wednesday. No other symptoms than the warning, first by email advising to drive 30-60 minutes, which my wife did. Yesterday, unfortunately on the way to the ER for a torn quad tendon, the dashboard warning again advised of critical starter battery, and said to "pull over and leave engine running," which we did not do. Were able to complete our round trip.
Let’s hope it’s the 12. There have been software updates so it’s possible that they have corrected the notice. I’m thinking that there isn’t much resource devoted to existing systems since the push is on new Electric variants.
I have a late June '21 build with no issues and nearly 5000 miles.
Which model is it? GLS 450?
Do you run ur with all tech on or anything you keep it turned off? Like Auto Start Stop turned off? or anything which can chew up a lot of battery which can be turned off?
Do you run ur with all tech on or anything you keep it turned off? Like Auto Start Stop turned off? or anything which can chew up a lot of battery which can be turned off?
GLE 450. I have stop/start on all the time unless I accidently turn it off. I toggle between eco and sport mode but drive mostly in eco. I do have the driver assistance package plus but only use the adaptive cruise. Unless I'm on a long trip, all of the other driver assistance features are turned off.
[QUOTE Do you run ur with all tech on or anything you keep it turned off? Like Auto Start Stop turned off? or anything which can chew up a lot of battery which can be turned off?[/QUOTE]
There’s no reason to worry about discharging the 48 volt battery, IMO. For one thing there is battery management built into the system to keep it from overcharging or complete discharge. The ISG does regenerative charging coasting and more when braking. It can also charge during normal driving as needed. In 2 1/2 years I have never turned anything off for the purpose of saving the battery. The GLE 53 uses even more juice running the 48 volt powered Electric Boost and the Active Sway bars and always has enough battery charge to perform as needed.
[QUOTE [color=#333333]Do you run ur with all tech on or anything you keep it turned off? Like Auto Start Stop turned off? or anything which can chew up a lot of battery which can be turned off?
There’s no reason to worry about discharging the 48 volt battery, IMO. For one thing there is battery management built into the system to keep it from overcharging or complete discharge. The ISG does regenerative charging coasting and more when braking. It can also charge during normal driving as needed. In 2 1/2 years I have never turned anything off for the purpose of saving the battery. The GLE 53 uses even more juice running the 48 volt powered Electric Boost and the Active Sway bars and always has enough battery charge to perform as needed.[/QUOTE]
Thanks Ron and MBGuy...
I have E-Active Body control, not sure how much it would use 48 volt system, so was worried if it helps to turn certain things off.
My build is 15th Oct 2021, so I guess battery should be new part number. I still can't get info with free vin decoder. I would have to ask Sales guy to get it for me.
Finally got my car back after a couple of weeks. Found the build date to be 03/21. Same as everyone else, diagnosis, fault code and new battery part number. I can only hope that it doesn't happen again.
[QUOTE [color=#333333]Do you run ur with all tech on or anything you keep it turned off? Like Auto Start Stop turned off? or anything which can chew up a lot of battery which can be turned off?
There’s no reason to worry about discharging the 48 volt battery, IMO. For one thing there is battery management built into the system to keep it from overcharging or complete discharge. The ISG does regenerative charging coasting and more when braking. It can also charge during normal driving as needed. In 2 1/2 years I have never turned anything off for the purpose of saving the battery. The GLE 53 uses even more juice running the 48 volt powered Electric Boost and the Active Sway bars and always has enough battery charge to perform as needed.
Thanks for the bit of encouragement. Car goes in next Wednesday. No other symptoms than the warning, first by email advising to drive 30-60 minutes, which my wife did. Yesterday, unfortunately on the way to the ER for a torn quad tendon, the dashboard warning again advised of critical starter battery, and said to "pull over and leave engine running," which we did not do. Were able to complete our round trip.
So, dealer charged he 12V battery overnight and it checked out fine. This is the first step to documenting a potential battery issue. If it recurs, then there is a case for replacement. No sign there are issues with the 48V.
So, dealer charged he 12V battery overnight and it checked out fine. This is the first step to documenting a potential battery issue. If it recurs, then there is a case for replacement. No sign there are issues with the 48V.
I think better the 12 volt than the 48 volt. Either way though, I'm sure it's a big inconvenience to say the least.
I agree it's been quiet and recently asked the same question. I haven't gotten any answer, but quiet is good.
Especially quiet for MY22 vehicles. '22 GLE/GLS' as well as S-Class' have been on the road now for a few months so we would have heard something by now.
PFL205.064 with M276.823 (Oil pump solenoid defeated)
Originally Posted by Longroof45
I agree it's been quiet and recently asked the same question. I haven't gotten any answer, but quiet is good.
For sure, that is good news indeed.
Originally Posted by js_cls
Especially quiet for MY22 vehicles. '22 GLE/GLS' as well as S-Class' have been on the road now for a few months so we would have heard something by now.
I agree it's been quiet and recently asked the same question. I haven't gotten any answer, but quiet is good.
That's because a couple of months after replacing the 48V battery, I'm now stuck waiting for a front differential replacement. Since it DIED!
Well, it's not real quiet. Our 2020 450 GLE (15K miles) just died with total electrical failure. Could not charge or jump the car. Tow truck driver tried his battery pack and it sucked it dry in about 5 seconds.
Took dealer 2 days to get it started. They (and Mercedes) claimed the batteries "tested good" so they only did a software update. It has been working for 3 weeks now but I have doubts how a software issue could cause these symptoms. BTW, I have an electronics background with 30 years of experience fixing/maintaining large mainframe computers. In my view, a battery change is needed in addition to the software change.
Well, it's not real quiet. Our 2020 450 GLE (15K miles) just died with total electrical failure. Could not charge or jump the car. Tow truck driver tried his battery pack and it sucked it dry in about 5 seconds.
Took dealer 2 days to get it started. They (and Mercedes) claimed the batteries "tested good" so they only did a software update. It has been working for 3 weeks now but I have doubts how a software issue could cause these symptoms. BTW, I have an electronics background with 30 years of experience fixing/maintaining large mainframe computers. In my view, a battery change is needed in addition to the software change.
An important software update was done to my replacement battery when my 48 volt failed in May of 2021 and no issue since. I was told that the new software update was designed to prevent a similar failure in the future. There is a battery controller in the 48 volt Lithium to manage “State of Charge” and numerous other functions. One function “disconnects” (for lack of a better term) the battery in case of an accident to prevent a battery fire from a “short”. It’s possible that your battery was OK but a safety mechanism incorrectly disabled the battery function. I had a detailed discussion with the Shop Foreman and don’t recall the technical terms he used but that’s some of the layman’s explanation.
An important software update was done to my replacement battery when my 48 volt failed in May of 2021 and no issue since. I was told that the new software update was designed to prevent a similar failure in the future. There is a battery controller in the 48 volt Lithium to manage “State of Charge” and numerous other functions. One function “disconnects” (for lack of a better term) the battery in case of an accident to prevent a battery fire from a “short”. It’s possible that your battery was OK but a safety mechanism incorrectly disabled the battery function. I had a detailed discussion with the Shop Foreman and don’t recall the technical terms he used but that’s some of the layman’s explanation.
That's a good summary. The Battery Management System (BMS) is internal to the battery, and separate from any of the car's electrical management systems.
So there are two "Heads of (battery) State"
The car senses the need for power, or need for charge, and directs it to the battery. There IS a software contentment from M-B. That's what's updated.
Then the BMS takes over and its primary mission is to care for the battery. This might be preventing fires as @Ron.s mentions, plus it controls charge rate, may warm the battery when cold or keep it from overheating - there are lots of things Lithium batteries need to keep them healthy for a longer life.
The BMS is its own computer with its own software. IDK if the BMS software can be updated, but I wouldn't be surprised.
12-03-2021, 08:52 AM
