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One thing I have found is that there are so many incredible spray products today, I would never even consider going through the process of traditionally waxing a car or using a carnuaba wax product. The hassle of that, dealing with keeping wax out of seams and trim and all when I can literally just spray a clear product on the paint and wipe it off isn't worth it at all IMO. I got my car washed yesterday and this thread inspired me to do the booster, it took me 10 minutes including all the glass, and detailing the rims and dressing the tires. Two passes with a microfiber towel and the finish is perfect, no streaking, no fuss at all...and the paint looks and feels incredible. This is what I use to boost the coating:
Gtechniq c2V3 Ceramic Sealant:
If you just want a product you can use while you wash, this is an incredible product:
Gyeon Wet Coat:
You just wash, spray this on panel by panel and hit it with the pressure washer or high pressure spray and it flashes and no wiping is required, just dry as normal. Here's a video of it in action:
There are many, many excellent products out there, and they're fun to use IMO. My Pacifica is not coated, and I spray it down with that Gtechniq C2V3 every couple months, and it stays protected, looking good and beading too even without a coating and even through tunnel carwashes. Even without a coating I wouldn't use a wax, I would just use these ceramic sprays.
This is the Pacifica after an application of the C2V3 sealant:
PFL205.064 with M276.823 (Oil pump solenoid defeated)
Originally Posted by SW20S
One thing I have found is that there are so many incredible spray products today, I would never even consider going through the process of traditionally waxing a car or using a carnuaba wax product. The hassle of that, dealing with keeping wax out of seams and trim and all when I can literally just spray a clear product on the paint and wipe it off isn't worth it at all IMO. I got my car washed yesterday and this thread inspired me to do the booster, it took me 10 minutes including all the glass, and detailing the rims and dressing the tires. Two passes with a microfiber towel and the finish is perfect, no streaking, no fuss at all...and the paint looks and feels incredible. This is what I use to boost the coating:
Gtechniq c2V3 Ceramic Sealant:
If you just want a product you can use while you wash, this is an incredible product:
Gyeon Wet Coat:
You just wash, spray this on panel by panel and hit it with the pressure washer or high pressure spray and it flashes and no wiping is required, just dry as normal. Here's a video of it in action:
There are many, many excellent products out there, and they're fun to use IMO. My Pacifica is not coated, and I spray it down with that Gtechniq C2V3 every couple months, and it stays protected, looking good and beading too even without a coating and even through tunnel carwashes. Even without a coating I wouldn't use a wax, I would just use these ceramic sprays.
This is the Pacifica after an application of the C2V3 sealant:
Wonderful! Even more options to choose then thanks for sharing : )
Maintenenace schedule? I'm really lazy about car cleaning. It gets a tunnel wash when its really dirty. Realistically, not more than 4 or 5 times a year,
Maintenenace schedule? I'm really lazy about car cleaning. It gets a tunnel wash when its really dirty. Realistically, not more than 4 or 5 times a year,
No maintenance spritzes in between? I'm very jealous.
Mine stopped shedding contaminants after about 9 months, even with regular spritzing. Now I wax it, save money and time, and contaminants just rinse off. The wax only takes twice the time as a spritz, and it lasts longer.
I guess I got surface protection for an additional year after new, few swirl marks. Year three and it's just a normal finish.
No maintenance spritzes in between? I'm very jealous.
Mine stopped shedding contaminants after about 9 months, even with regular spritzing. Now I wax it, save money and time, and contaminants just rinse off. The wax only takes twice the time as a spritz, and it lasts longer.
I guess I got surface protection for an additional year after new, few swirl marks. Year three and it's just a normal finish.
To put things in perspective, I've only put 17k miles on the car in 3 years and it's garage kept.
PFL205.064 with M276.823 (Oil pump solenoid defeated)
Originally Posted by Lucky 777
Maintenenace schedule? I'm really lazy about car cleaning. It gets a tunnel wash when its really dirty. Realistically, not more than 4 or 5 times a year,
Originally Posted by mikapen
No maintenance spritzes in between? I'm very jealous.
Mine stopped shedding contaminants after about 9 months, even with regular spritzing. Now I wax it, save money and time, and contaminants just rinse off. The wax only takes twice the time as a spritz, and it lasts longer.
I guess I got surface protection for an additional year after new, few swirl marks. Year three and it's just a normal finish.
Dang I really should apply these products sooner rather than later.
No maintenance spritzes in between? I'm very jealous.
Mine stopped shedding contaminants after about 9 months, even with regular spritzing. Now I wax it, save money and time, and contaminants just rinse off. The wax only takes twice the time as a spritz, and it lasts longer.
I guess I got surface protection for an additional year after new, few swirl marks. Year three and it's just a normal finish.
I'm telling you, you didn't prep the car properly before you coated it. Thats why it didn't hold up. I can spray boost a coated car in 10 minutes including all the windows, detailing the wheels and dressing the tires, no way you can wax a 207 inch long S Class in 20 minutes and do it at all well. The crappiest coating applied properly will last way longer than 9 months without any maintenance.
Nothing wrong about preferring wax, there's no "wrong way", and wax has a certain look that nothing synthetic matches, and some people prefer the "old school" approach but you gotta be real.
A properly installed ceramic coating will work for 1-5 years (depending on the coating) with NO Maintenance.
Now with that said, the spray products are so easy to use and themselves work so well, I wonder if the coating is really neccessary if someone is willing to do a spray seal/coat of the car once a month or so. My Pacifica sheds water and all almost as well as the S Class with no coating at all...
I guess I'm a failure. It takes me more than 10 minutes to do my door jams!
....After locating my spritz bottles, dedicated color microfiber towels (correct GSM, Korean of course), returning the Ceramic-exposed towels to a water soak so they don't become hydrophobic, collecting the sorted rags and specially laundering them, folding them neatly and storing them in their special bins.
I don't have time for all that. I bought an extra year of low maintenance with my Coating.
I wax it once in a while to save time and improve looks.
My cars look pretty nice, especially my Wife's which gets the most compliments, and has never seen SiO2.
YMMV, or does for sure.
The whole purpose of the coating is to save time, and if properly installed you would have years of low to no maintenance protection. The flaw in your process is you only clayed the paint, you have to do some sort of macihne pass with a cleaner or polish after doing that and then do an IPA wipedown to make sure that you have totally bare paint for the coating to bond to, then you have to make sure that the coating flashes and bonds before you level it off. What coating did you use?
Your process of protecting your towels from ceramic contamination is valid when coating the vehicle initially, but the booster sprays do not have enough SiO2 to make that necessary. I have specific towels that I use for spray sealants and ceramic boosters and I wash them separately from the other MF towels, which I would do with any protection used including towels used for waxing. You never want to wash towels with wax on them with towels used for other purposes because it will contaminate the other towels.
Using a ceramic booster or spray sealant is no different than using a quick detailer spray. Spray the panel and wipe it off. Its quick. You can also use a spray on hose off booster when washing that requires no separate step whatsoever. Also like I said, if you do NOTHING to boost the coating you will still get 1+ years of protection if the coating was applied properly. Usually when the hydrophobic properties slow down its actually contaminants on the paint not a loss of the coating itself...a decon with IronX or claying if necessary will restore the hydrophobic behavior.
I'm sure your cars look great, a ceramic coating is not necessary and if you prefer waxing there's nothing wrong with that, I just want to make sure everybody else has accurate information.
The whole purpose of the coating is to save time, and if properly installed you would have years of low to no maintenance protection. The flaw in your process is you only clayed the paint, you have to do some sort of macihne pass with a cleaner or polish after doing that and then do an IPA wipedown to make sure that you have totally bare paint for the coating to bond to, then you have to make sure that the coating flashes and bonds before you level it off. What coating did you use?
Your process of protecting your towels from ceramic contamination is valid when coating the vehicle initially, but the booster sprays do not have enough SiO2 to make that necessary. I have specific towels that I use for spray sealants and ceramic boosters and I wash them separately from the other MF towels, which I would do with any protection used including towels used for waxing. You never want to wash towels with wax on them with towels used for other purposes because it will contaminate the other towels.
Using a ceramic booster or spray sealant is no different than using a quick detailer spray. Spray the panel and wipe it off. Its quick. You can also use a spray on hose off booster when washing that requires no separate step whatsoever. Also like I said, if you do NOTHING to boost the coating you will still get 1+ years of protection if the coating was applied properly. Usually when the hydrophobic properties slow down its actually contaminants on the paint not a loss of the coating itself...a decon with IronX or claying if necessary will restore the hydrophobic behavior.
I'm sure your cars look great, a ceramic coating is not necessary and if you prefer waxing there's nothing wrong with that, I just want to make sure everybody else has accurate information.
You do not know how I apply my Stuff, so you're only criticizing your imagination.
This time you're arguing with me while agreeing with me about all the extra time it takes to sort, wash, etc etc etc. You also disagree with your own techniques, every other post. Correct, polish / not correct or polish. Nothing additional needed / more products needed. All towels / separate towels.
I disagree with your (variable) "correct" information. They are Opinions, widely shared by the SiO2 manufacturers.
They wouldn't like your pointing out what an endless ritual it is.
I know perfectly well how to apply and care for Ceramic and other coatings. Hence, my posts above. I just want to make sure everybody else has accurate information.
The ceramic on my 53 was applied when new, on a fresh clayed (NOT Corrected) surface.
And again:
Originally Posted by mikapen
Maybe it's because of your initial correction, which I would never do or recommend.
This is not the correct process for applying a ceramic coating. You MUST either correct or machine prep the paint prior to laying down the coating. You said you just clayed, that is improper application.
This is an overview of the process from AvalonKing who makes some pretty good coatings:
You clearly don't like ceramic coatings or spray toppers/sealants and thats fine...but that doesn't give you the right to spread incorrect information. Your ceramic coating failed because you did not prep the car properly before you installed it. Full stop. The discussion as to whether the coating is worth the effort or if you prefer the look is a different discussion. My only issue is with you holding up your experience with durability as having any value when you admittedly did not prep the paint properly before coating.
But, if properly applied ANY coating will last at least a year...also full stop. If you regularly care for the paint do you really need that durability? I'm not sure you do...but thats again a different discussion.
I like my ceramic coating, and as I said, I think it added a year and a half of reduced care.
I didn't say or think that my coating has failed.
I just think that maintaining it is a big ritual, compared to Carnauba wax that I decided to try instead of pitching it out. This experience surprised me.
If your coating stopped shedding water at 9 months which you said, its failed. If you think that spraying the car with a quick detailer spray and wiping it off is a "big ritual" but you have no issue with separating towels and putting them in a water bath after use and keeping them in labeled tubs isn't a big ritual at all...I don't know what to tell you. I use a QD after every wash, many people do...and once and a while I just use the spray booster instead of the QD. Zero additional effort.
Originally Posted by mikapen
Mine stopped shedding contaminants after about 9 months, even with regular spritzing.
That coating has failed, and it doesn't even make any sense as the spray booster products when used with no coating last 3 months on my other car which gets tunnel washed every 2 weeks. If you are "spritzing" once a quarter, you keep beading and shedding contaminants just from the booster spray itself in between applications. Thats why I said I am not certain if the coating is worth it for me over just using the spray product regularly. I like using it, so I use it more than once a quarter probably more like once a month and that offers very close behavior to the coating without the initial application.
This isn't the first thread you've killed with misquotes and attacking your own imagination.
As I've said to you before - "Your words, not mine."
BTW shedding water is a bit different than shedding bird poop. Look it up 😆.
Silly exchange.
Edit: Read post #42 again. Or more if that's what it takes for you. Breathe....
Except that they are your words...hence why I quote your specific posts. Not sure how you always seem to think direct copy and paste quotes of what you have posted are misquotes lol
Except that they are your words...hence why I quote your specific posts. Not sure how you always seem to think direct copy and paste quotes of what you have posted are misquotes lol
The Paste is correct, but then you go on and attribute things that weren't in my words.
This is a habit of yours, and not the first thread you've ruined with your petty, inane, insipid, and stupid remarks (there are search engines to help you with these words), directed at anybody in your blast zone, and usually the wrong target.
But you're doing better this time around.
In other threads you've quoted other people and attributed them to me or others, and you've actually rearranged words in posts to convey an erroneous meaning, and/or copied modified posts with glee - and then you go after your own posts. Seems silly, at best.
I'm still waiting for your all out attack with your inflated resume and how I'm lying about everything.
You are still arguing with yourself and others, confused about your attack plan, caught up in the "conflict."
On the track we call it the Red Mist. Look it up.
And it's because your you don't seem to understand words like "debris" and "water." They are not the same.
"Bird poop" is different from "water beads." (More words for you to look up.)
Do this slowly..... R e a d m y p o s t, t h e n r e a d y o u r s.
They are different, say different things and mean different things. You are actually attacking your own opinion. Try reading again - sometimes that helps comprehension.
Is English your native language? There are ESL courses that can help some folks. I've taught some.