702gle450

I’ve been looking back thru past post but haven’t found any thing similar. I’ve had the car for 8 weeks now. The first 6 weeks everything was working fine. It’s our first plug in hybrid and I was actually pretty surprised at how seamless the system was working. Only issue I had was the infotainment acting up and not recognizing phone once. Fast forward to the 6th week of ownership and I noticed the car when driven in electric mode or hybrid mode after accelerating and causing the gas motor to turn on it would not go back to electric mode after letting off accelerator to coast or while coming to a stop. Shortly after this car started making a random clicking noise that seems to come from under the drivers seating area. Sounds like a contactor or something similar that can’t make up its mind. It’s a very rapid on and off clicking noise and continuous on and off the whole time the vehicle is running. 3 days after the clicking started car threw the check engine light. Called service and dropped the car off 2 days later. It’s now been a week and got a call from service today. I asked about the check engine light and they said it was for a security module but couldn’t really elaborate..Tomorrow the shop foreman will be taking an extended test drive to investigate the noise. Apparently the tech it was assigned to couldn’t hear anything but I’m picking up the vibe from my advisor that it wasn’t actually driven. Guess my question is has anyone else had this issue? If so what was the culprit? Other than that the car has been great to own and hoping this is an easy fix.

cometguy

I'll be following your experiences, as I'm considering buying a 2024 GLE 450e.
As for the ICE not turning off: I'm not sure where you are located, regarding outside air temps (and if it's gotten much colder in the last couple of weeks as it has here).
I presume that you are aware that, if the ICE has not been on, once it comes on, it will stay on until the engine is warm (an aspect of all PHEVs).
I did notice in one 2024 GLE 450e that I test drove a week or two ago (out of five different GLE 450e vehicles that I've test-driven so far) did seem to have an
issue in 50-degree outdoor temps of starting with the ICE on when parked (instead of all-electric mode as it should have), and the salesman couldn't figure out why it did that; the traction battery had a high state-of-charge, so being low on charge was not a factor.
It was disconcerting to me because one of the huge plusses of PHEVs is that we don't get gas fumes in our garage when starting up (and fumes thus into the house).

I'm hearing, from forums like this, that MB servicing is sub-par in general (I'm sure that there are better service departments and worse ones).
But after having had really good Volvo and Porsche service departments for many years now, I think back on those bad dealerships
that just made owning cars a headache.

BlueYonder

My previous PHEV, the GLE550e did the same thing. It seemed that once the engine was started, it would run until reaching normal operating temperature and then go back to its normal starting and stopping. Maybe this is done to prevent multiple cold starts as you drive the vehicle.

mpmoore

This ^^^^^

702gle450

I’m located in Vegas but this started when I was on a trip to San Diego, not sure the weather had anything to do with it since it was in the 60s and 70s most of my trip. Prior to the issues popping up it was always seamless transition between battery and gas. Never went into gas mode unless under heavy acceleration and immediately switched back to battery when done accelerating. The noise I hear sounds like a relay or something that can’t make up its mind. Like a constant on and off sound. I was told that the car is just learning my driving habits and that it was trying to conserve the battery. I have few problems with that explanation though. 1. Why did it not do this for the first 6 weeks and 1500 miles? 2.If the battery is significantly charged wouldn’t this be operating in the opposite way it’s supposed too? I had a call with my advisor today and asked him where the security module is located and if he know if it controls any relays? He apparently doesn’t know and said he was sure if that was it the tech would have mentioned it. I have a test drive with the ship foreman tomorrow and I plan on asking him those same questions. I guess they can’t get the vehicle to replicate the clicking sounds. I’m wondering if it’s because they cleared the codes. Will update tomorrow for sure.

702gle450

I guess it could be but it didn’t do it the first 6 weeks of ownership. Just find it strange that they can’t give any explanation for it. Seems like it’s new to everyone and nobody really knows how these things are supposed to work. Note the comment above where the sales guy was telling him the start up was normal when it is in fact not normal.

702gle450

A bit of info from a good friend who is a tech at another dealership. He asked for the vin and pulled the data from the trip to the dealership. He’s saying that the check engine light is related to the powertrain module and not the security module. Also circuit 30t relay located under the front driver seat which apparently helps to conserve the battery or something along those lines. He said you would hear occasional clicking from this under normal conditions. His recommendation is to update the software if available if not replace the module. Headed to the servicing dealership shortly to talk with the shop foreman to see what he has to say. I’ll update later

702gle450

Newest update..
test drove with shop foreman on Wednesday.. I was able to get the vehicle to replicate the noise. He suspected it was not a relay but something vibrating under the front driver seat or floorboard.. fast forward to today and I get a call from my service advisor and he informs me that they think the problem is the relay under the gas pedal that regulates between the modes. They have to order the part from Germany and will update me on Monday with an expected timeframe. Fingers crossed it’s not a long wait

cometguy

Oh, well:

https://www.autoevolution.com/news/2...on-225789.html

https://www.carscoops.com/2023/12/20...n-wet-weather/

702gle450

Looks like that recall doesn’t affect my vehicle. Actually spoke with a lawyer here in Nevada today about the buyback process. Seems Mercedes is the worst manufacturer to deal with when it comes to lemon law cases. They refuse to reimburse for out of court attorney fees which run roughly 4k. Most cases are settled out of court so there’s that.. left a message for my advisor today and apparently the part is in and they’re going to try and get the vehicle back to me today. It’s been at the dealership for 31 days as of today.

RomanK

About 6 weeks in (3000km) clicking started under the driver seat. within days high voltage battery malfunction, car gets towed to service, they removed seats and carpet, from the looks of it reseated cables connector(s)

702gle450

Recent update is that I had the vehicle back for exactly 1 day before it was back at the dealership. It’s been there 2.5 additional weeks at this point. Another part has been replaced but apparently the vehicle is still making the clicking sound. Now they think it’s something under the driver seat and have ordered parts to try and fix it. We have been in contact with Mercedes corporate and got an approval for a buyback. Just waiting now for the 3rd party company to work the numbers and to turn the vehicle in. Looking at 4 to 6 weeks from what they’re saying. Hope this helps anyone else who experiences the same issues

djgiovanni

Thank you for the update. Been following.
Happy to hear MB will buy it back with no further delay. You certainly gave them the opportunity to address the problem. Happens with all brands as @Ron.s will tell you. Bad experience and hassle but now you can start fresh. Cheers!

Lucky 777

Sounds like a technology that's not ready for the road. I'll keep my ICE thank you.

Guardbum3794

I find it odd that the forum has not linked a few sites. I recommend a search of

GLE 450e: Warning Lights - "Performance Extremely Limited"

MBGLE450E

I have a 2024 MB GLE 450E with 1145 miles and it's in the shop for an oil pressure warning. I got back from Fort Worth and has I was driving up to my work the light came on and the side shut the engine off. They replaced the Oil filter housing today and it is still doing the same thing, Anyone had any issues like that?

MBGLE450E

I had EQE 350 plus and it took them 8 weeks to even do the buy pack, Now I am in a GLE 450 E and its in the shop for a oil pump after having it for 4 days brand new.

BlueYonder

I had a 2018 GLE 550e PHEV. The engine and battery system were trouble free for 5 years and over 70,000 miles. Mercedes knows how to build a PHEV. The problems with the 450e sound like they are more often related to the decision to pair the electric drive system with that crappy four cylinder motor.

MattCorrow

New User here, not sure if I'm doing this correctly.

We bought a "used" 2024 GLE450e on 5/10 from a dealer. It had had what I think is a common problem(cooling system for the battery maybe - code P0A9300).. Anyway, I think it was repaired under warranty, the total was about $22,000 of repairs..
The original owner had returned it to the dealer with about 4000 miles on it, and we bought it from the dealer, and got them to certify it.
Oddly, they gave us a copy of the service information from the prior owner, and all the work they did on it.

Forward to Yesterday, and I noticed it has a CEL. I have an old OBDII reader, which i plugged in, and the code was P2E98 with a description of "fuel air metering auxiliary emission controls". I'll guess that the description is actually wrong(because the reader is older), but I'm assuming the P2E98 code is actually the correct one.

I called Mercedes (the dealer we bought it from) and asked them to "look up the code", which they said they can't do..

I poked around, and could not find anything whatsoever on this code or even any "P2E" codes..

Has anyone seen this code?

My first inclination was to tighten the gas cap and reset it (in case it's the code you get when the gas cap is loose)..

Thoughts?

I just found the following on KBB.Com under OBDII codes(generic): "P2E98 - Charge Port Door B Position Sensor Circuit". That would make a lot more sense as we charge it at home every time we get back. Not sure why that would cause a check engine light though..

stktyz33

The dealers can run remote diagnostics on your car if you set them as your "Service" entity in Mercedes Me app. When it's done, the dealers have the capability to trigger remote test on your car and tell you the codes and suggested remediation. If they don't want to do it, find another dealer or bring the car in. I wouldn't trust generic OBDII readers as they are nowhere near manufacturer's systems for pulling the information from all relevant modules.

MattCorrow

Thanks for the info. I'm looking all through me "mercedes me" app, and I don't see anything about a setting a "service entity".. Is that by any chance a paid add-on?

I understand that I should not rely on a cheap generic OBDII reader, but my understanding is that even if I'm not getting the correct description, it should be providing the exact code that was registered.

In the past, there were on-line resources where you could look up a specific error code for a specific vehicle. I've been able to find a "comprehensive Mercedes OBDII error list", but it does not contain any P2E codes. If that list is in fact "comprehensive", then the error code must be a generic one, not specific to Mercedes, right?

stktyz33

When you open Mercedes.Me App, you click top left corner to pull up the side menu. In this menu, you click on the block with your vehicle, it will pull up "My Garage" section. In this section, if you scroll down, you'll see "Preferred Retailer: Service" and "Preferred Retailer: Sales". I believe you only need to set the "Service" part to a dealer of choice, which I believe gives them the authorization to run the remote diagnostics.

Oh, it's not about the reader being cheap necessarily, it's about the fact that most basic readers can only access a fraction of the modules of your car as they don't have required HW capability (DOIP) or an authorization (certificates) to access the module via it (MY 2024 is locked car). So, when you pull a generic CEL code, you may not get anything useful info from it because it got triggered from a chain of more specific upstream codes. The service departments can access full info and get manufacturer's suggested remediation steps. Basically, treat this code as a nudge to go to a dealer to get more info. The car is still under warranty, so let them deal with it.

MattCorrow

Thanks! That was helpful. I guess I should probably notify the Mercedes Benz dealer that is closer than where we bought it before setting them up...

Understood about the CEL and cheap reader. After seeing the code, I reset it, so there would be nothing there. If it appears again, we'll get it to the dealer to diagnose.

Since this vehicle had quite a bit of service to resolve the battery cooling issue, we're watching it carefully, and glad it's certified.

Not being paranoid, just trying to be careful..

Thanks!

stktyz33

I think you only wiped the CEL code but not the upstream ones, the ones in the modules your scanner couldn't access are likely still there. Mercedes diagnostics is extremely verbose and to a point that it's too noisy. It's highly unlikely that the code you're referring too was the only one triggered. I.e., a dealer may still be able to pull the history, even if you clear the code with your scanner. Not trying to steer you in any direction, just giving you some data points.

MattCorrow

Thanks! I understand(and understood) the point. It would appear that the CEL appeared while we had been driving the car under electric only(we've had the car for 4 weeks now and still haven't had to put gas in it).. 90%+ of our driving so far has been under electric only....

Because it appeared to happen in electric mode, I figured if I reset it, and there was actually a problem, it'd reappear almost immediately, and we'd take it to the dealer.

Having to take it to the dealer is always painful. The closest dealer is an hour away, which means it's 3-4 hours, 2 vehicles and 2 drivers to both drop it off, then another 3-4 hours, 2 vehicles and drivers to pick it up, in addition to the couple hundred dollars for them to "diagnose it", so I'd prefer to only take it to them if there is definitely a problem..

Thanks!