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I can't believe nobody mentioned this. The instructions for the Mercedes crossbars for the W167 (for me, a 2024 GLE 450e) say to put the center of the rear crossbar at 28 inches from the back end of the rail. This puts it dead on the mounting post for the side rail. It can't hang on there because the crossbar clip cannot grab the rail. The crossbar will fit forward of that, but not aft of that because the distance between the rails tapers as you go back. What did you do? So far, I mounted it forward of the side rail post. I guess that's OK.
You must have different instructions than came with mine (2018/07 date). Mine shows the front crossbar back 18.1" to center from front of siderail, and 28.5" to the back one. that puts the rear one forward of the support you mention.
Also, to answer(?) a question. They put rubber bumpers on the front (only) crossbar SPECIFICALLY to stop you from sliding back the sunroof. I wonder why? Anyone try reversing the front and rear crossbars to defeat this? (I doubt they would be the right lengths, but I don't know.)
You got me curious, and here's an easier solution. You can knock them off easily with a hammer (place one end on floor and beat down on the rubber piece). This is what the result looks like. I have not tried them on the car yet.
Yes, they put that there on purpose to stop the sunroof from opening to slide (but allow tilt). For what reason, I have no idea, but I bet it's noise. It is very touch to design a sunroof that does not "organ pipe".
Could be to stop people from accidentally opening the sunroof into straps/roofbox mountings/... sticking out under the roof bars.
My sunroof has no problem fully opening with the Thules.
Also, I have the rear mounted further back without any issue.
Okay, I'm extremely disappointed in these OEM carrier bars. I've only used them a few times, but when I went to mount them to pick up some plywood last week the threads for both clamps on the front bar stripped out. There is no way to repair this, so a few hundred $ down the drain.
Last edited by GregW / Oregon; Jun 18, 2025 at 03:57 PM.
You can actually see the stripped threads? The clamps have to go on exactly the right spot forward and back or else the clamp screws don't quite catch their own threads. Make sure that's not happening.
Originally Posted by GregW / Oregon
Okay, I'm extremely disappointed in these carrier bars. I've only used them a few times, but when I went to mount them to pick up some plywood last week the threads for both clamps on the front bar stripped out. There is no way to repair this, so a few hundred $ down the drain.
Okay, I'm extremely disappointed in these carrier bars. I've only used them a few times, but when I went to mount them to pick up some plywood last week the threads for both clamps on the front bar stripped out. There is no way to repair this, so a few hundred $ down the drain.
Okay, I'm extremely disappointed in these carrier bars. I've only used them a few times, but when I went to mount them to pick up some plywood last week the threads for both clamps on the front bar stripped out. There is no way to repair this, so a few hundred $ down the drain.
That's unfortunate. Factory?
They are all expensive for reasons I don't understand.
I wish I'd taken some photos before I recycled the whole setup. The toothed clamping knob (#11) is attached to a threaded rod (bolt, if you will) that screws into a fixed (but swiveling) receptor within the mechanism. These threads stripped out (clearly visible) even though I did not exert any more than normal force. Due to the way it's constructed I determined there was no feasible way to make a repair, and one functioning bar is not useable. I was able to disassemble them and recycle the aluminum bars.
Last edited by GregW / Oregon; Jun 18, 2025 at 03:57 PM.
Does (did) the clamping knob #11 have a torque-limiting (clicking) feature that avoided over-torquing? Thule crossbars are excellent in my extensive experience, and fundamentally operate the same way as the bars in the diagram above. The Thule system has a torque limiting "torque wrench" that slips and clicks when the correct tightening torque is reached.
Separately, an helicoil might have saved the day on the stripped thread.
Does (did) the clamping knob #11 have a torque-limiting (clicking) feature that avoided over-torquing? Thule crossbars are excellent in my extensive experience, and fundamentally operate the same way as the bars in the diagram above. The Thule system has a torque limiting "torque wrench" that slips and clicks when the correct tightening torque is reached.
Separately, an helicoil might have saved the day on the stripped thread.
No, no torque limiting. And it was the "bolt" that was stripped, not the receiving "nut", and it's captured within the system.
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