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Battery maintainer - guide to install quick disconnect leads
My other quick disconnect leads didn't have a fuse, and I wanted to swap it with one that had an inline fuse. I finally got around to getting one and replaced it. I decided to snap some photos to help others. It takes 10 minutes to complete.
Once you remove the main cover above, there's a second cover that needs to be removed with a flathead as seen in the image below.
There was this available post that I attached the red lead to using an M8 nut and flat washer. If you don't plan to disconnect the battery, be extra cautious.
Black lead zoomed in.
So now I don't have to open my hood to connect my maintainer. It wasn't difficult before but now it's really easy.
My only concern is what happens if that endpoint area gets flooded from car washing, heavy rain, or even snow and ice buildup, even if only briefly. In icy conditions, things can sometimes get tugged loose.
If someone forgets to make sure everything is fully sealed and those conditions happen, it could become a problem. Also, the inline fuse is not optional here. It is absolutely essential, and nobody should attempt this without a proper inline fuse (not any fuse rating is OK).
If I can come up with a more robust way to protect the endpoint, I may give this a try as well.
My only concern is what happens if that endpoint area gets flooded from car washing, heavy rain, or even snow and ice buildup, even if only briefly. In icy conditions, things can sometimes get tugged loose.
If someone forgets to make sure everything is fully sealed and those conditions happen, it could become a problem. Also, the inline fuse is not optional here. It is absolutely essential, and nobody should attempt this without a proper inline fuse (not any fuse rating is OK).
If I can come up with a more robust way to protect the endpoint, I may give this a try as well.
I agree.
I solved the problem with a zip tie to the front grill, with just enough protruding so you can get a grip on it. Any more exposure might cause flapping or fluttering, but you can make it pretty secure.
The ends come with tethered waterproof caps, and I'd replace the entire cable if that cap went missing.
Edit- I start at the front, get the end where I want it, then cut to length with strategic zip ties along the route.
I agree.
I solved the problem with a zip tie to the front grill, with just enough protruding so you can get a grip on it. Any more exposure might cause flapping or fluttering, but you can make it pretty secure.
The ends come with tethered waterproof caps, and I'd replace the entire cable if that cap went missing.
Edit- I start at the front, get the end where I want it, then cut to length with strategic zip ties along the route.
Do make sure the contacts on both plug-in connectors are always clean and corrosion free. Any contact resistance in that area throws off the CTEK control and can cook the battery.
My only concern is what happens if that endpoint area gets flooded from car washing, heavy rain, or even snow and ice buildup, even if only briefly. In icy conditions, things can sometimes get tugged loose.
If someone forgets to make sure everything is fully sealed and those conditions happen, it could become a problem. Also, the inline fuse is not optional here. It is absolutely essential, and nobody should attempt this without a proper inline fuse (not any fuse rating is OK).
If I can come up with a more robust way to protect the endpoint, I may give this a try as well.
I agree with you and Mikapen. If I lived in a place with more weather, I'd place it elsewhere as well. I'm in SoCal so while we get some heavy rain here and there, I think I'm generally safe with the inline fuse. Good point for others!
One alternative is connecting directly to the 12v battery underneath the driver's seat.
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