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The cut off in above pic seems all over the place. Mine was like that before I re installed the bulbs. Took me 3 times until I got it right. As I mentioned in of my posts, even if it is 1 or 2 millimeters off your cutoff will be way off and you'll lose brightness. On the passenger side it seems way too high and irregular. I would try it again if I were you. You'll be pleasantly surprised on how much better it will look once you get it right.
I used industrial strength velcro from home depot and I mounted it on the top side of the wheel well against the plastic on top immediately next to the opening where the plastic piece is removed to gain access to the light assembly. I did not want to screw anything in and make any permanent changes in case there is problem I can remove everything and there will be no evidence of any HID kit. I also bought two covers for the headlight to replace the ones I drilled through in case there is a problem. I wouldn't want to dealer to blame me for anything that may go wrong.
I get That for 60k you shouldn't have to opt in for nice lights which is why I have a 2014 Acura MDX... we can make choices and you chose a pre owned Benz with less features for whatever reason ... and I respect that
the conversion looks great, I doubt you'll have any issues with it or your warranty
Last edited by PeterUbers; Oct 27, 2016 at 11:50 AM.
I get That for 60k you shouldn't have to opt in for nice lights which is why I have a 2014 Acura MDX... we can make choices and you chose a pre owned Benz with less features for whatever reason ... and I respect that
my GLS is not pre owned and I actually paid $82k. I would have gladly paid the extra $1300 had I been told the truth by my dealer/sales person. Ultimately its on me and I have to live with it for a couple years until I trade in. Now I'm happy with the HIDs and I feel safe driving at night.
On the GLE350 I know some have mentioned it's easier to install with the wheels taken off. When I replaced the bulbs, I didn't see the wheels even doing anything to allow more space as it's blocked off by the wheel casing. Am I missing something?
You may actually have to readjust your light positioning. My headlights were 4 inches TOO LOW, from the factory.... I did the adjustments based on a chrisfix video and TRS with measurements and all (see below). After I brought them up, I can see much more, not a single person has flashed their lights at me, and at 25 feet the cutoff hits just below the black window of the car in front of me (ie not blinding them) which is exactly what I see in other vehicles(I could probably lower it a few notches to make it true OEM). Give it a try and see. Also, you do not need an allen wrench, a philips will do just fine(the philips portion is farther below the hex portion).
Ordered the morimoto kit from TRS, along with the H7 adapters, but the bulb will not fit through the adapter. Are these the same adapter everyone else has been receiving? The ones I received appear slightly different than the others I've seen photographed.
Ordered the morimoto kit from TRS, along with the H7 adapters, but the bulb will not fit through the adapter. Are these the same adapter everyone else has been receiving? The ones I received appear slightly different than the others I've seen photographed.
no, you need the square hole. call them and tell them you need that type
no, you need the square hole. call them and tell them you need that type
That's disappointing. I ordered from this link and what they have photographed is the square hole version. Part number also matches my receipt. I paid extra for shipping, and now they are closed for the weekend. Can't seem to get a break with the headlights on this car.
That's disappointing. I ordered from this link and what they have photographed is the square hole version. Part number also matches my receipt. I paid extra for shipping, and now they are closed for the weekend. Can't seem to get a break with the headlights on this car.
Sh@t bro, I feel your pain. Happened to me with TRS...they sent me the circular one and one square one. They later sent the square ones. Their explanation was "someone mixed the circular ones with the square ones"
Glad I tested before I cut the cap. I tested the Morimoto canbus H7 Elite with a 12 volt battery and they work perfect. I determined the + side was the larger wire at the plug and hooked up the system on one side. Turned on the lights and the HID came on for a few seconds, went off, came back on for a second, then stayed off and I got the low beam out warning on the dash. I tried it a couple of times. I guess there is not enough power to drive the ballast (35 watt ) directly with the canbus system. Dam. Anyone else have trouble with the Morimoto canbus without relays??
Ordered the morimoto kit from TRS, along with the H7 adapters, but the bulb will not fit through the adapter. Are these the same adapter everyone else has been receiving? The ones I received appear slightly different than the others I've seen photographed.
same thing happened to me. They now have a new stock Morimoto H7 bulb that is smaller and fits the adapter. I had to do an exchange. But I am having trouble keeping the HID's lit with just the canbus system. I need to call TRS tomorrow.
Glad I tested before I cut the cap. I tested the Morimoto canbus H7 Elite with a 12 volt battery and they work perfect. I determined the + side was the larger wire at the plug and hooked up the system on one side. Turned on the lights and the HID came on for a few seconds, went off, came back on for a second, then stayed off and I got the low beam out warning on the dash. I tried it a couple of times. I guess there is not enough power to drive the ballast (35 watt ) directly with the canbus system. Dam. Anyone else have trouble with the Morimoto canbus without relays??
I have a 2016 GLE 350 with stock Halogens.
Ken
Maybe I just need the capacitor link?? I will post a follow up when I get it sorted.
Glad I tested before I cut the cap. I tested the Morimoto canbus H7 Elite with a 12 volt battery and they work perfect. I determined the + side was the larger wire at the plug and hooked up the system on one side. Turned on the lights and the HID came on for a few seconds, went off, came back on for a second, then stayed off and I got the low beam out warning on the dash. I tried it a couple of times. I guess there is not enough power to drive the ballast (35 watt ) directly with the canbus system. Dam. Anyone else have trouble with the Morimoto canbus without relays??
I have a 2016 GLE 350 with stock Halogens.
Ken
I had this same problem but only with the right side, after switching components from one side to the other it ended up being a malfunctioning ballast. I contacted them and a replacement was sent same day. No problem since.
I also have a 2016 GLE 350, no low beam out warning after the ballast was replaced. Im using the 50w version.
I had this same problem but only with the right side, after switching components from one side to the other it ended up being a malfunctioning ballast. I contacted them and a replacement was sent same day. No problem since.
I also have a 2016 GLE 350, no low beam out warning after the ballast was replaced. Im using the 50w version.
No. nothing just the ballast and the lights. The hylux ballast comes with internal canbus. I tried the Morimotto 50w kit and it took a few seconds to fire up and flickered a little and was not as bright as the 35w hylux. I was told by Lightwerkz that the hylux canbus is more stable than Morimotto. They sell both so they have no connection to one vs the other.
Both of my ballasts act exactly the same way. I bought the 35 watt morimoto. It acts like the computer is cutting power. I will give TRS a call tomorrow. Thanks for getting back to me.
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