Again! $&@/:&@$!!!!!!
#1
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Again! $&@/:&@$!!!!!!
Ok, I've already had the front rotors replaced once and I'll be dang if it isn't vibrating again. I go in tomorrow to have them checked and see what's going on. If I have to replace these rotors again at 25k miles.............I'm going to be beyond unhappy! ![Mad](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif)
Anyone else have brake problems or am I the only NASCAR/Indy/Formula 1/Grand Prix/Grand Theft Auto accused driver?
![Mad](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif)
Anyone else have brake problems or am I the only NASCAR/Indy/Formula 1/Grand Prix/Grand Theft Auto accused driver?
Last edited by BACnMercedes; 06-26-2017 at 08:28 PM.
#2
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LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!
So very sorry for laughing. But that last line,..Haha!
I've been accused of the same thing but that was back in '06 when we got our first ML.
Pads had to be replaced after 6 months!
We never drove an SUV before so being it's a heavier vehicle, idk...it's possible it was my driving habits.
After that,...I subconsciously avoid making short stops and give myself ample braking distance (which is what im supposed to do anyway...right? hehe).
Vibrating rotors? If im correct, that would indicated warped rotors. Which usually mean excessive heat. Which then in turn would indicate a possible "NASCAR/Indy/Formula 1/Grand Prix/Grand Theft Auto" driver behind the wheel...aka heavy braking.
Maybe.
So very sorry for laughing. But that last line,..Haha!
I've been accused of the same thing but that was back in '06 when we got our first ML.
Pads had to be replaced after 6 months!
We never drove an SUV before so being it's a heavier vehicle, idk...it's possible it was my driving habits.
After that,...I subconsciously avoid making short stops and give myself ample braking distance (which is what im supposed to do anyway...right? hehe).
Vibrating rotors? If im correct, that would indicated warped rotors. Which usually mean excessive heat. Which then in turn would indicate a possible "NASCAR/Indy/Formula 1/Grand Prix/Grand Theft Auto" driver behind the wheel...aka heavy braking.
![drive](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/driving.gif)
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#3
Super Member
One more thing to keep in mind. NEVER wash your car immediately after driving. If you do, you'll actually hear the rotors sizzle! That's how hot the get. The extreme instantaneous temperature change caused by spraying water directly on them is a sure fire way to warp them. Always let them cool completely, naturally before getting them wet.
#4
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I just left my indy shop and now it's the rear rotors that need to be replaced. The front got replaced about 5000 miles ago. Maybe I need to go back to a truck.
(There goes my chances of talking my wife into another MB)
(There goes my chances of talking my wife into another MB)
#5
Junior Member
Sorry to hear! We had out front pads replaced at 5,xxx kilometres for squealing loudly and it's been smooth sailing since. We're now at 30,xxx kilometres and after my Service B they mentioned it's very likely that my rear pads will need replacement at 45,xxx which is surprising to me I would have thought they'd last longer than that.
Regardless, with all the minor growing pains we've had I'm not sure if I would buy another. I've been looking at the Cayenne lately but it is more expensive.
Regardless, with all the minor growing pains we've had I'm not sure if I would buy another. I've been looking at the Cayenne lately but it is more expensive.
#6
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Yeap! This car drivers, rides, and looks great but with this brake problem and a few other issues, maybe it's time for me to go back to a truck. Unfortunately also its time for a new car for my wife and after the huge disappointment with test driving 2 the E43s, I can't get her even near another MB now. Even the new E63s I had been eyeing (we had problem with a previous E63 and she has had enough and wants to try something else) is out. I know every brand has problem but I'm not sure if MB is the brand we want to stay with. Their new ads, company direction, and what seems like a huge focus on entry level vehicles, I too think t might be time to look at other vehicles. But dang it's going to be hard to change.
#7
we had a couple early M's. because of the "assisted" braking; pads and rotors at every change. just became a part of maintenance.
i asked my salesman if we're going to see the same thing in the '16, and he said, "it's gotten better". we''ll see. ron
i asked my salesman if we're going to see the same thing in the '16, and he said, "it's gotten better". we''ll see. ron
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(By the way most of that was sarcastic because I'm not totally pissed off at the problem but I am a little upset at MB.)
#10
Junior Member
This is probably a semantic argument, but according to most car techs I've spoken to there isn't actually any "warping" of the rotors. The vibration is from brake pad residue buildup causing the rotor surface to be uneven. The rotors are "resurfaced" to fix the problem but really they are just scraping off all the brake pad gunk. The underlying metal surface of the rotors is fine. The buildup is, apparently, caused by excessive heat, which basically melts the surface of the brake pads, which sticks to the rotor surface. So it's probably more a function of bad pads from the manufacturer
#11
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Yup, it would be worth bedding in the pads and rotors properly to see if that helps. Check out the article from stopteck
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...in-suggestions
Last I checked, hot rotors and rain/slush are not unexpected combinations. Can't see German engineering not taking thermal shock into account in spec'ing rotors for their SUVs. Pad material transfer (uneven) is more common.
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...in-suggestions
Last I checked, hot rotors and rain/slush are not unexpected combinations. Can't see German engineering not taking thermal shock into account in spec'ing rotors for their SUVs. Pad material transfer (uneven) is more common.
#12
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I have a 2015 ML350 4 matic with approx 38,000 miles with original tires, rotors and pads.
In the old days , the cars rear brakes would go 90,000 plus before needing replacing. But with all the new safety features, anti-skid, differential braking to help stabilize a car in a turn ( especially critical in SUVs, remember the Ford Explorer rollovers), the rear brakes are used alot more and wear much quicker than before. Even on some smaller cars (like my 2011 Mini Cooper), the rear pads needed replacing before the front pads or rotors.
In the old days , the cars rear brakes would go 90,000 plus before needing replacing. But with all the new safety features, anti-skid, differential braking to help stabilize a car in a turn ( especially critical in SUVs, remember the Ford Explorer rollovers), the rear brakes are used alot more and wear much quicker than before. Even on some smaller cars (like my 2011 Mini Cooper), the rear pads needed replacing before the front pads or rotors.
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Update. I had the rear rotors changed and it did not fix the problem. The vibration is when braking from about 70,65 down to about 55. The whole car shakes. It's going back next Tuesday to change the front rotors.....again. First front rotors were at about 19500 miles, now they are getting changed again at 25500 miles (don't forget the rear rotors in there too).
Needless to say I'm spec'ing my wife an 2018 M550i now and soon I'll be going back to a truck. The GLE is a nice riding, driving, and great looking car, but it's time to try something new that better fits my needs now that have changed.
Needless to say I'm spec'ing my wife an 2018 M550i now and soon I'll be going back to a truck. The GLE is a nice riding, driving, and great looking car, but it's time to try something new that better fits my needs now that have changed.
#14
Junior Member
Viper doc has some good info. Let me try to help you. Rotors do not warp. They never get hot enough, (even if you ride your brakes). You will boil off the brake fluid in the calipers long before any warpage. It all has to do with tightening (torqueing) of the tires and trueness of your hubs. Have your tech index the rotors and use an on car lathe to true the rotors to the hubs, all 4 rotors. If the problem is in your braking system, this process will cure any vibration caused by. One more thing, when you true the rotors to the hubs, you should always install new pads. Your old pads have micro lines in them from the old surface of the rotors and may cause other issues.
#15
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![](https://staticssl.ibsrv.net/autocomm/EvoM/fcotmicon.gif)
This is probably a semantic argument, but according to most car techs I've spoken to there isn't actually any "warping" of the rotors. The vibration is from brake pad residue buildup causing the rotor surface to be uneven. The rotors are "resurfaced" to fix the problem but really they are just scraping off all the brake pad gunk. The underlying metal surface of the rotors is fine. The buildup is, apparently, caused by excessive heat, which basically melts the surface of the brake pads, which sticks to the rotor surface. So it's probably more a function of bad pads from the manufacturer
#16
Junior Member
When you resurface the rotors on the hub, you true the rotors to run perfectly parallel to the brake caliper and mounting bracket. This eliminates the brake pad taking metal off the rotor and creating high spots and low spots on your rotors, which makes the rotors unparallel and causes vibration or pedal pulsations. Yes, there are special bits that will true composite rotors. That is how the manufacturer of the rotors cuts the rotors at the factory. Also you want to index the rotors before trueing them, this means marking the rotors to the hub so if the rotors are ever removed for any reason, the rotors will go back on exactly in the position they came off. All rotors can be machined with the right bits.
#17
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Update. I took my GLE400 back to the shop today and we agreed to swap the rear rotors back out and replace the front ones since nothing was every fixed by replacing the rear. After we changed the front rotors out, the problem was fixed. That was good but now I've gone through 2 sets of rotors in just over 26k. Kind of hard to believe but I've been reading and it's kind of problem. I think I've also discovered that MB has added more power to the car but didn't do anything to stop the somewhat faster car. I refuse to believe my driving is really that bad and it is the cause of the problem. So if I plan on keeping the car (depends on if I decide to keep my boat at home or leave it at a business partners newly purchased lake house) I'm going to look into getting some better aftermarket rotors. It's still a great looking, riding, and fun to drive car.
#18
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Are you the guy I see driving with the dark sunglasses & the scarf starched so that it sticks out behind you as you drive?
no,wait..........that was Snoopy.