Thank you for your kind response, I need nothing as I ordered the optional LED lights on my car which are awesome!
I believe that members would need EXACT instructions for their EXACT vehicle. I believe this is the difference between good and excellent customer service.
I think that if you took the time to create a superb and fault proof installation, and guide, people would beat a path to your door for it.
Thank you again for your attentive response and be well!

 

Something to think about.
I ran into problems on the W209 (It may or may not be an issue on the W166). I had to buy new retainers Holder Adapters on Amazon and I had to make splice in the plastic adapter that to get the wires in that mount behind the bulb. You may need to drill out the dust cap as well and if you do find a rubber grommet to protect the wire from rubbing.

 

Yes, I agree. And we'd be more than happy to make those exact instructions for every make, model, submodel, year if logistically possible. However we don't always have access to all those variations of all those vehicles and many customers we do work with locally don't want their vehicle photographed. It'd kind of like asking a Home Theater retailer for exact instructions and exact sound performance for your exact living room. Just not sure how to reasonably do it for something that's inherently "universal". That said, we have always been available near 24/7 support for our customers to walk them through install and help them troubleshoot, even after hours when we close shop. You can do a simple search on us on MBWorld and the one thing that's never questioned by any of our customers has been our level of customer service as that's something we take pride in. That's why we are the only sponsor here that was recognized by the community and forum admins with the title MBWorld Guru because of our level of service and assistance.

Yes, you will need to drill into the dust cap to feed the wires through from the bulb to the ballast. Some with lease vehicles who do not want to drill into the dust cap simply tape off the area instead though. The kit has rubber grommets already on the wires to seal and protect the wires from rubbing.

 

You told me you had hundreds of GLE's install this kit easily and successfully so it's interesting that not even one out of hundreds of people could take a few pictures for the install.

Also with the home theater analogy, every living room is different so it'd be hard to map out a universal install strategy for different home layouts. But all 2016 GLE350's base's are the same thing, the layout of the headlights is exactly the same unless they have the higher package which they probably wouldn't need this upgrade then. Unless I'm wrong, which I could be because I'm not an expert.

I think your customer service has been fine, I just personally wish it was disclosed up front, PRIOR to purchasing when I request a oem fitment plug and play kit, that I'd have to have the kit taken apart and the adapter doesn't fit into the housing like oem. I just feel misled.

 

Yes, we've sold hundreds of these, majority them are not local. Big country, big world. And more than a few did take pictures and posted on various threads here. Granted most were post install and just showing results though. And my home theater analogy wasn't just specifically talking about GLE, but my wish to also if possible build out detailed install instructions for GLC, GLA, GLS, ML, C, E, S, etc etc for every year and mid version model refresh.

I will admit that "plug and play" could be clarified a bit more.... it is functionally plug and play meaning no error codes, no re-coding ecu or SAM, or wire splicing required. The kit does plug into existing plugs and functions. That doesn't mean there's no additional work that's needed as part of the install process (ie drilling hole in dust cap to feed the wires through, assemble the kit together, etc).

 

I'm in the middle of analyzing how to improve the headlamps in my 2018 GLE 400 and I think Atlanta AMG is about right on this. I've sent AZN Optics an email today asking for a bit more clarity, but here's my issue: when I see "plug and play" I expect the bulb to replace exactly the H7 bulb in the headlamp receptical now and that the wiring connects to the existing harness. My history with headlamp upgrades started in 1983 with my Rabbit GTI (Hella H4 headlamps and fog lamps wired into the factory fog lamp switch, not featured in the series vehicle) and hit the apex when Hella USA gave me a set of BMW E36 US-spec headlamps fitted with Xenon bulbs for low and high beam. This wasn't plug-and-play by a long shot; I had to create a separate fuse box with four relays, one for each ballast, plus grounds and power supply. After all this, the D2 bulbs weren't really the same size as the 9004s (or whatever) that came out of the free-form reflectors, and had to be epoxied into place. As a result, the beam patterns were hugely compromised, although the light was better quality and twice as bright. Still, the drop outs in the beam pattern was so bad that I then upgraded to EU spec PES halogens which were just as good.

Given the PES system on the GLE halogen headlamp, my inclination is to use Xenon bulbs rather than LEDs despite their higher cost and lower light output (3000 lumens vs 6000 lumens), since the LEDs only have light sources at the 9 and 3 o'clock position. So my question to AZN was: does the Xenon bulb fit directly into my H7 socket? The H7 bulb in my car looks to me like any other H7 bulb you'd get at Autozone or wherever, so I don't understand the "Optional Euro H7 Adapter" for $14. I also don't understand the "Standalone CAN bus wiring harnesses" for $12.50.

The website says "With easy plug-n-play installation through the innovative Wire Harness, along with optional Canbus Harnesses for modern vehicles, upgrading has never been simpler." It's not like the $26 extra breaks the bank, but it just clear to me that this whole project is unclear as to what's involved. I'm looking forward to AZN's reply and getting high quality lighting on my GLE which had a unique combination of options, color, mileage, and most importantly service history, but sadly not the fancy LED headlamps.

 

You will need the resistor to trick canbus system into thinking it is pulling the correct wattage. Next, you will need metal based H7 bulbs. Yes, should be plug and play. I just tucked everything into the headlight housing. Make sure you get a resistor that does not get hot. I used one that did get hot and it melted some things. Most of them, don't get hot but make sure to read the fine print of the listing.