GLE Class (W166) Produced 2015-2019

Air Suspension 2017 GLE 43 AMG

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Old Dec 12, 2023 | 05:52 PM
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2017 GLE 43 AMG
Question Air Suspension 2017 GLE 43 AMG

Hello, Recently the mal function light came on the instrument panel showing that the suspension was not operating. The handling and ride of the car became terrible. Took it to a mechanic who ran a diagnostic check on it and it showed that the driver side rear sensor had failed. Upon further check it indicated that the valve that distributes air to each wheel had failed. I purchased a new OEM valve and installed it yesterday. That was a straight forward swap.

After some time all things looked to have gone back to normal, and then the mal function light on the dash came on again. Hooked it up to the scanner and it had no faults but it asked to set or re-set the degree's for each corner. That is what thru me off. What are the degree's? Only thing I have been able to find is that there is a variance between degrees. But no where saying or showing as to what the correct degrees are to be entered into the computer for this model.

When i push to button on the center console to raise or lower the car it will flash and a message comes on the display saying to not drive faster than 12 MPH. Everything seems to be working but I am not sure as to if there is a factory "default" setting that is automatically goes in to affect when this valve is replace or just what to do next or do nothing and let it sort itself out.

Not sure if this makes any sense to anyone.

Last edited by hemigtx; Dec 12, 2023 at 05:55 PM.
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Old Dec 18, 2023 | 04:40 AM
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I went through this on my E55. I don't know what the default range is on the W166.. I think your talking about the Airmatic level calibration incline angle parameters? i think the front axle incline angle should be 4.1 degree to 9.0 degree and the rear axle incline angle should be from -1.8 degree to 2.5 degree. Someone can shine some light.

Here is a video on a Airmatic for Level calibration go to 1:19 in the video.

Last edited by amusa; Dec 18, 2023 at 04:44 AM.
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Old Feb 10, 2025 | 04:48 PM
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C32 AMG, GLK 350, A250 W177, GLE43 AMG
Originally Posted by hemigtx
Hello, Recently the mal function light came on the instrument panel showing that the suspension was not operating. The handling and ride of the car became terrible. Took it to a mechanic who ran a diagnostic check on it and it showed that the driver side rear sensor had failed. Upon further check it indicated that the valve that distributes air to each wheel had failed. I purchased a new OEM valve and installed it yesterday. That was a straight forward swap.

After some time all things looked to have gone back to normal, and then the mal function light on the dash came on again. Hooked it up to the scanner and it had no faults but it asked to set or re-set the degree's for each corner. That is what thru me off. What are the degree's? Only thing I have been able to find is that there is a variance between degrees. But no where saying or showing as to what the correct degrees are to be entered into the computer for this model.

When i push to button on the center console to raise or lower the car it will flash and a message comes on the display saying to not drive faster than 12 MPH. Everything seems to be working but I am not sure as to if there is a factory "default" setting that is automatically goes in to affect when this valve is replace or just what to do next or do nothing and let it sort itself out.

Not sure if this makes any sense to anyone.
Hey! I hope you finally solved the issue. Dis you get the correct parameters? Could you share them please, I also have a GLE 43. Thanks
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Old Feb 10, 2025 | 07:58 PM
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Hi. I forgot to post the final outcome.

I continued to have the issues with the fault light on the dash so I finally took the car to my local MB dealer and they looked into things to find that on the driver side rear distribution can it had been hit with some sort of road debris and had punched a small hole in it. It hit right where the hose connects. Not big. But enough to create it to bleed off.

The final fix was to replace the damaged parts and I had them re-calibrate the system. I went and looked at it and you could not possibly have re-created the problem if you paid big money to do it. I had to have been something like a bolt or something metal that hit it right at the fitting..

About $1700 bucks later I was back on the road.

Actually I should say that my wife is back going. Not my car. I just write the checks to keep it roadworthy. She loves it. She drives is about 2000 miles a year. By the time you throw in the insurance cost, general maintenance, gas prices etc etc It is the most expensive per mile vehicle I have ever owned. But she loves it.
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