An engine sized post it note on top of the engine:
YO! DIPSTICK!
DO NOT OVERFILL ENGINE OIL.
1 QUART AT A TIME UNTIL DIPSTICK INDICATES PROPER LEVEL.

Grinning.

 

Yup .... and practically every dealer in the US does when they service the GLK.

 

Plugs & Coils @ 60,000 miles. All 12 of them.

 

Always have the oil level checked, at the dealer, before driving home from having an oil change. I have had several occasions when there has been more than one quart over the maximum mark on the dip stick. This can damage your engine so insist that they remove the excess.

 

other manufacturers?

 

Good info tks

 

going to do some work and would like the part numbers of the oil, air, cabin, plugs, etc...
getting ready when it hits 90,000 kilometers

 

Go here http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...89&catalogid=0 and check the part numbers of M-B parts. This is the website of Ft Lauderdale Mercedes.

 

Go to YOU TUBE & search. Likely also available on this forum.

 

Yes, there is a thread here for that, too. Just search on the top of the page. It is good for many a models of Benz

 

Sounds like you lucked out & researched well. I bought on w/std.MB sound which I am very unhappy with. Trying to find out how to recover [replace/upgrade?]

 

Mileage is correct. Oil chg-- 1 year. Brake fluid--2 years. It's all in your maintenance book.

 

Please send instruction heet & Data Card.
VIN WDCGG8HB2CF826259 jasewell35@comcast.net

 

Recently : I received a notice of service on my dashboard which included a scheduled oil change Filter & the usual inspections of AC filter,fluid , check...
The Service Center took out the Service Warning from the dashboard.

I did not have the MB dealer complete the inspection & service , my selected service center with an experienced tech pointed out the inside cabin filter needed a change.My visual inspection of this cabin filter was a needed change. The Filter is expensive OEM MB filter was $54 ,even other replacements were $26-$40 from On-line European vendors.
I refill my own ATF fluid on my own .
Brake fluid at 20,000 ,I believe is a stretch unless visually moisture is observed.

I use my scan my scan tool periodically because of my negative experience with bad diesel fuel , I tend to use a name brand . My choice presently is a Marathon/ Speedway Fuel Stations. Running to MB Dealer would have generated a $$$ ,I just put an approved additive to solve the diesel problem.During travel ,I use a name brand diesel ultra-low sulfur blend with the highest Cetane level....I found in my experience variables...with one station in Maine ,selling Super diesel blend above 70 Cetane.

 

I am going to not agree with the test information on this post for a few reasons. That "load bearing" test has already been proven to be worthless in conducting any comparison tests from one oil to the next, it is a gimmick all on it's own. Household bleach can result in a good performance show when used on the "bearing load" test, but then after a few extra minutes it breaks down all the way and offers no lubricative properties at all.

Engineers do not make deals to promote one oil over another. Oil that is best suited for a engine manufactured is what a automotive company recommends and for good reasons. I am not sure if an article is still floating around the internet but "everything you always wanted to know about oil" was done by a group of motorcycle buffs in England, to find out all the real information and quality between almost every brand and type of oil you can obtain, including Amsoil. There was no company promoting one product over another, just basic comparisions and why synthetic oil is offering a far better protection and lubricant over conventional oil. It even added to show what is put in each oil as to additives and what they do and the importance of each additive. The oil "weight:"factor is also discussed as to what it means such as 5W-20W oil...there are small polyimers similar to springs thet when cold they are small, and when warm they expand. The long and short is, if a car manufacturer says to use an oil, they have a very serious reason for it.

On a personal use of Mobil One synthertic oil, it provided my cars with outstanding lubrication and have not had any mechanical issues with any inner engine opertations, have put some very hard high miles on my cars and niot had them fail from engine breakdowns. Last car I sold had 490,000 miles on the engine and it had no issues at all, but had a ton of electrical issues. Other cars I own have all been driven hard and are considered high mileage, but no engine problems. Forgive any typos...

 

I tried to pm but didn’t work.

 

acfamily@gmail.com

 

Hello, I am new here , please I need service repair manual software is there anyone that would help me

 

10K if you don't want you motor to last.... Otherwise 5K and it'll last decades

 

I ran my first 2014 GLK to 320k miles before turning it over to daughter and I still maintain it. On that one I left the variable oil pump hooked up and ended up having to go thru the timing components at 250k miles. I've disconnected the variable oil pump on my second one and change oil every 5k miles. I'll keep y'all posted regarding when I have to go thru timing components on this one. I hold the GLK350 in high regard and is probably one of the best vehicles I've ever owned.

 

Oh yea, after an oil change I will add 6.5 qts then sneak up on midway up on the dipstick. Thank goodness for dipsticks.