GLK-Class (X204) Produced 2008-2014

Power tailgate problems

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Old Sep 1, 2009 | 05:32 PM
  #26  
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2010 GLK350 4MATIC
Originally Posted by NYCGLK
So yesterday at the airport this happened again, where the tailgate opens and closes right back. This time tho, holding the button for longer period of time didn't do anything. It started opening and just stopped (opened about an inch) while I was holding the button down. When I released it just stayed slightly open, so I had to just open it manually. This is somewhat embarrassing when this happens in public places.
This happened to me more often than not, so I finally dropped it off a the dealer this morning. Just got a call saying that the open/close mechanism needed a simple adjustment and is now fixed. On my way over to the dealer now to pick it up. Let's hope this problem is really gone!
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Old Sep 1, 2009 | 09:13 PM
  #27  
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good luck!
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Old Sep 2, 2009 | 08:50 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by veerodder
good luck!
The problem is only partially fixed. When I use the button on my key, or touch the handle on the rear tailgate itself, the door seems to open without any problem, but when I use the button on the driver's door, it still gets stuck after opening only about 2 inches. I didn't have time to test it when picking up at the dealer, so I was very frustrated last night when I realized it still wasn't working properly (especially since they told me it was fixed!). I guess I'll be paying them another visit soon.
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Old Sep 2, 2009 | 09:26 AM
  #29  
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SLfanDC, I noted that when ingnition is on the button in the door works better (actually to close tailgate with that button ignition has to be in 2 or it won't work), still no excuse. Keep us posted on this.
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Old Sep 14, 2009 | 03:22 PM
  #30  
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Thumbs down

I'm still having this problem when trying to open the tailgate - regardless of whether I use the key, driver's door button, or handle on the tailgate itself. Very annoying. Especially so when I've got a bunch of stuff in my arms and I try to open the tailgate while walking toward the car. Whatever "fix" the dealer claims to have done didn't work.
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Old Sep 14, 2009 | 07:40 PM
  #31  
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From: Gilroy
GLK Matte Silver|MB Arts strut tower brace|MB Arts rear brace|Shaved door and bumper trim|K&N's|
Originally Posted by SLfanDC
I'm still having this problem when trying to open the tailgate - regardless of whether I use the key, driver's door button, or handle on the tailgate itself. Very annoying. Especially so when I've got a bunch of stuff in my arms and I try to open the tailgate while walking toward the car. Whatever "fix" the dealer claims to have done didn't work.
Damn that is not good at all
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Old Sep 14, 2009 | 08:33 PM
  #32  
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From: Morris County, NJ
2010 GLK 4Matic Steel Gray
Really sorry to hear all your issues with the tailgate.

I won't miss not getting the premium package as much now...
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Old Sep 17, 2014 | 04:45 PM
  #33  
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GLK-350
Angry Power tailgate on GLK-350 will not close all the way...

I'm wondering if anybody has had a problem with the power tailgate on their GLK-350 not closing all the way. This started today. The warning comes on that the trunk is not secure so I attempt to close it, but it does not close correctly. I have to press the 'ok' button and keep driving. It's closed, but NOT ALL THE WAY. It wont lock (for lack of a better term).

Has anybody else had this issue?
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Old Oct 28, 2014 | 03:26 PM
  #34  
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From: Loen, Norway
2009 GLK 220 cdi
Hi,
have same problem with tailgate (open just for few inches and close), my question is how much is for the fix in mb dealer (if they need to change motor)? My car is now out of warranty...or...
Have somebody tried to change this motor by himself? I found few on ebay from 150 dollars....
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Old Dec 18, 2017 | 11:42 AM
  #35  
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ML270cdi
Unhappy W204 estate tailgate drops suddenly

I have a 2011 W204 C Class C200 Estate. when I open the tailgate (With the key), occasionally the tailgate drops to fully closed, it doesn't close, it slams shut, painful if I happen to be in the way. Any ideas?
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Old Dec 20, 2017 | 12:12 PM
  #36  
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GLK 350
Hello. Another liftgate issue... 2011 GLK350. It opens/closes fine, for the most part. However, it doesn't 'auto-latch'.. Meaning, it will close, make the initial latch, but not pull itself closed tightly. the gate still jiggles, but at least it shouldn't pop open. Is the motor/drive that pulls it tight, does it reside on a separate voltage circuit? Is this a common issue? If so, what would be the remedy?
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Old Dec 14, 2018 | 01:53 PM
  #37  
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2010 GL 550 + 2010 GLK 350
Is there a guide (preferably video) on how to replace the motor (I'm guessing a pump that pumps hydraulic oil) and the suspensions for the liftgate?
Also does anyone know where the load sensors are located?
My lift gate works everytime (although very slow - an indication of missing oil in the hydraulic system I think) but nowadays, it refuses to close at the last inch and opens all the way back.
I want to check the hydraulic levels and if necessary, replace the pump/motor because this is preventing me to drive the car.

Thanks.
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Old Dec 15, 2018 | 02:46 AM
  #38  
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From: Loen, Norway
2009 GLK 220 cdi
It is not hydraulic system, there is electric powered motor (located under the headliner) and two gas struts on the sides of tailgate...I would start with gas struts it's very easy to change them..if you want to get to the motor, you need to remove headliner at first...
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Old Dec 15, 2018 | 11:56 PM
  #39  
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2010 GL 550 + 2010 GLK 350
Originally Posted by Marek_Norway
It is not hydraulic system, there is electric powered motor (located under the headliner) and two gas struts on the sides of tailgate...I would start with gas struts it's very easy to change them..if you want to get to the motor, you need to remove headliner at first...
Hey Marek, thanks a lot! I had no clue about a motor and not a hydraulic system.
I can change the struts, just need to find the parts. But I still don't understand, why would struts do this? Or is there a way to see whether the struts still function or gone?
Do they pull or push? My gut tells me that they should help with the weight when the lift gate is opening and not the other way round but I may be very wrong.

Any guides or videos out there? Or part numbers?
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Old Dec 16, 2018 | 06:14 AM
  #40  
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From: Loen, Norway
2009 GLK 220 cdi
Struts can be too old, they can go in pretty hard (no oil or dirt on it), they are not expensive, and easy to replace...motor is more expensive and complicated for replacing, especially when you change motor with sam unit (it is on the motor but can be changed separatelly) you need to code it with mb xentry/star tool...you can find part numbers with diagrams on 7zap.com , same motor is used also in another models (c and e class) and you can find a lot of used parts on ebay...if you will need to replace the motor, try at first without sam unit (use one from your car) then you don't need to code it. If you have access to mb xentry/star, try at first connect your car to it and read error codes...what I know, first years of glks had problems with powered tailgate..good luck
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Old Jan 28, 2019 | 08:10 PM
  #41  
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Coming up on 10 year anniversary here. I guess I never posted but back in 2010 when during the first service the tailgate was adjusted and never gave me a single problem again over 9 years and still works perfectly.
Even 10 year old gas struts still work. I figured there is not much left in them after 10 years and replaced with OEM ones made by Stabilus (who also makes the original struts). MB struts are 73 each on FCP, OEM are 13 each. That's nuts if you ask me. The OEM fit with no issues and took all of 2 minutes to replace (hold the hatch when taking one out, it will knock you on the head because one strut can't support it). The OEM strut looks almost identical and made in Mexico.

Old struts:


New Struts:
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Old Jan 28, 2019 | 08:13 PM
  #42  
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2010 GL 550 + 2010 GLK 350
Thanks a lot! Can you please share the part number, too?

For the stabilus (or whatever that was)

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Old Jan 28, 2019 | 08:24 PM
  #43  
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My original ones are 2049801564

For some reason FCP has two versions. This is what I ordered:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...s-stb-sg303079
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Old Jan 28, 2019 | 08:25 PM
  #44  
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2010 GL 550 + 2010 GLK 350
Originally Posted by NYCGLK
My original ones are 2049801564

For some reason FCP has two versions. This is what I ordered:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...s-stb-sg303079
thanks a lot!!!
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Old Jun 12, 2019 | 10:34 PM
  #45  
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glk 350
Tailgate stopped working after replacing battery

After replacing the battery the tailgate stopped working, I read in another thread that some people can go into the truck and disconnect something to reset tailgate, but it wasn't a glk 350. Anyone else know of a reset for the power tailgate. thanks
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Old Jun 15, 2019 | 07:16 AM
  #46  
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2015 GLK 350
Many devices like this need to relearn home position. Take a look in the owners manual. It's possible it's in there. Those struts are motorized and I believe a relearn will correct it. I wish I knew more.
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Old Jun 19, 2019 | 04:21 PM
  #47  
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2010 GLK 350 4Matic
Is there a way to adjust the closed height of the tailgate? My wife's GLK tailgate latches, but is obviously mounted high. I think it may have been in a rear-end collision at some point prior to ur ownership.
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Old Jun 19, 2019 | 04:45 PM
  #48  
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2015 GLK 350
My opinion on that would be to consult a body shop.
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Old Jul 15, 2020 | 09:47 AM
  #49  
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From: Doncaster
S204.203 CDi
Exclamation C250 CDi 2011 S204

I have problems with my tailgate also, will unlock on the key press but that is all, doesn't open, doesn't close with the button on the tailgate. unlatches with the button on the drivers door, wont open fully and wont close with this button either. I also have a problem with the button/dial on the centre console, i'm wondering if this could be a CAN issue.

Any advice welcome
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Old Jul 17, 2020 | 08:54 PM
  #50  
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2006 Alfa Romeo Brera, 2010 GLK350, 2018 BMW 640i GT, 1997 Subaru SVX, 2012 Moto Guzzi Norge GT8V
I just replaced the hatch struts with the OEM Stabilus ones. The originals were 10 plus years old and could be compressed easily. When the hatch opened to it's maximum height it would clunk loudly and drop about a half inch and scare the bejesus out of me every time. Now it operates much more smoothly and holds firm at full height. It was a simple DIY of about 5 minutes.
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