I finally installed the Xenon low beam lights and replaced the parking lights with White LED; however, now the white lights do not match the yellowish Daylight Running Lights bumper LEDs that came as part of the AMG package.
Does anyone in the forum has a GLK with AMG and lightning package installed from factory? I need to know if the DLRs bumper LEDs are yellow or white, to see if I can replace them.

 

Sean,
My new GLK is a lease as well. Are you going to take them out when the lease is done? Do you think doing a retrofit will void a lease?

 

Hi Everyone. I just completed the conversion from stock halogen bulbs to an HID kit from XenonDepot.com. Firstly the H7 kit was very well done. The guys at XenonDepot have thought of everything. This isn't my first conversion, I have done four conversions over the past 6 or so years and their kits just get better. Most of my kits have come from Xenon Depot after first buying stuff from Ebay (China products which weren't advertised as such) and had a 50% ballast failure rate with no warranty. Back to the GLK conversion. I struggled for 3 hours to do the conversion from above and got really no where except into trouble. I took the night off and did some research and found that people had removed the wheel well housing to install the lights. I gave this a whirl in the morning. I opened up the right well and voila, instant and easy access to the right hand bulb, which I had totally screwed up because the retainer clip had fallen off the bulb mount. As an aside, all you have to do is to pull up on the retainer clip at the top and this spreads the clip allowing the H7 bulb to come out easily. Install the HID bulb in place and push down on the retaining clip and the bulb is locked in place.....easy peavey!! NO NEED TO PULL THE CLIP OUT OR UN LATCH....JUST MOVE IT UP OR DOWN. Too bad I didn't know that to start with. Back to access through the wheel wheel. From start to finish today, I had both sides done in 3 hours and that included jacking, tire removal, wheel well housing removal, bulb installation, replacement of all parts, installation of HID wiring and ballast, etc. and clean up!!! It was a snap. So, I strongly recommend this approach. It was a piece of cake and you can see all that you are doing. Good Luck!!

 

Thanks for the tip...Im about to do this mod too...just waiting for my kit.

 

How is the access to the H7 bulb? I am about to upgrade my H7 halogen bulb to GE Plantinum Nighthawks. I prefer this than installing HID. Also, I am going to upgrade the DRLs to LED...thus am hoping to have a nice look upfront without the need to retrofit an HID kit.

 

Access to the H7 bulbs...or any bulbs for that matter was a breeze if you remove your wheel liner.

 

The Lighting Package LED strips are WHITE.

Wayne

 

do i need to jack the GLK and remove wheel to remove the wheel well liner?

I was thinking of doing the HID mod tonight but don't have a jack handy?

 

Well....removing the wheel gives you easy access.

You could try turning the wheel to one side...and try to get access that way, but you wont be able to remove the liner completely.

Btw...isn't there a jack in your trunk?

 

got them installed...

i had to remove driver's side wheel well, i used the jack in trunk...thanks!
I replaced the parking lamps, and driving lights with AZN LEDS. THe HIDS were DDM tunning 5000K.

Passenger side i could squeeze my hand and install.

I have some comparison shots i will post later.

Only issue is two shadow lines in the light patterns on the ground...had a similar issue with my 2009 C300...any suggestions? I can post pics later

 

Shadow lines?

Do you mean the cutoff lines from each headlight unit? You can adjust them with a screwdriver....there's a small hole in the plastic cover above the headlights...you need a Philips (+) screwdriver. Counterclockwise to raise the beam up....clockwise to lower the beam down.

 

Hi Guys!!
I know that this thread is old but I am new to the forum, just buy a 2010 GLK 350 and I was searching on the forum to replace my Halogen bulb for HID kit and have some questions but did not want to open new thread for that.


so first guys that have install HID on low beam and did not get any error message without relay harness or resistor harness did you use 35w kit or a 55w kit?
(because guy from Xenondepot said that I will need a relay and resistor harness)


what is the lifetime of an aftermarket kit like those?(from your experience)


did any of you have try the new LED conversion kit for headlamp?


Thanks

 

Okay, I've done this to a few MBZ cars in the last couple of years and here is some general information I've encountered.

a. The resistor is used to add enough electrical load (current draw) to the headlight harness to simulate a 55w bulb.

That being said, some people indicated 1/2 current draw is enough not to activate the "check bulb" type message.

* 55w ballasts increase current load and you may not need a resistor.
* 35w ballasts may have enough current load, but the current may not be constant to keep the bulb warning off. Or you may experience flashing of the bulb, some call this strobe.
* A large capacitor +5000uF is used to stop the strobe effect by keeping enough voltage on the harness when the capacitor is charged.

b. 55w ballast may never trigger any bulb error

c. A combo of a 35w ballast and capacitor has usually worked for me

e. Load resistors used to simulate bulb current draw will get very hot. Do not mount them in the headlight housing.


How long do they last???

1. Old style, large rectangular ballasts, I have 2 working from 2010
2. 1st generation micro ballasts (metal case) very small and thin - lasted only a couple of months
3. New plastic housing micro or small ballasts have lasted longer than 2 months
4. Very new micro metal housing, looks like old style, large rectangular ones. Just got these, will have to update.
5. H7 bulbs seem to burn out faster than ballasts, with exception of the old micro style.

 

ok thanks for the info!!


by capacitor did you mean this (yellow thing) : http://www.xenondepot.com/HID-Low-Be...Fix-p/rfix.htm


I am looking for this kit (low beam) : http://www.xenondepot.com/H7-HID-Kit...ID-p/xt-h7.htm


do you think it will need one?


and did you ever saw or install LED conversion kit like those :
http://www.xenondepot.com/H7-LED-hea.../h7-led-hl.htm


was thinking to put one of them on high beam and one for fog light, I drive mostly at night on side road so most of the time on high beam but need to alternated a bit from high to low so I don't think that HID would be best for that because of the start up delay.

 

For other MBZ cars, aftermarket flickering/strobing can be a problem, but for the GLK it seems to be a non-issue. The yellow/orange components you provided are the resistors not the capacitors.


These are caps that combat flickering:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/261528799204?lpid=82&chn=ps

I never ordered from the company that you provided, but the H7 low beam kit seems to use the micro ballasts that I did not have good luck with. Although, this was a couple of years ago and the circuit/design internally may have been improved.

As for the LED kit, it uses CREE leds, these are the best. If the specifications are true, 2500LMs and 1.6a per bulb, they would seem to be bright enough. But since the current draw is much lower than the stock halogen bulbs, hopefully the kit has the need resistors to provide enough load to ensure the bulb error stays off. I do not have any experience with this type of LED light.

Just to be clear, if you go with either the HID or LED kit, and you need resistors, the resistors will get hot. So mount them accordingly, make sure the yellow/orange devices are mounted on metal not plastic. And don't bundle them up with the extra length of wires.

 

Thanks a lot that is some great info!!


normaly were do you buy your kit (the one you said you have since 2010) and did you ever run an HID kit for high beam or fog lght


I have to admit I sold my Infiniti G35 coupe and I am missing my OEM Bi-Xenon headlight lol

 

I normally buy from Ebay. The old style, large ballasts are hard to find. Most components are made in China or Taiwan. The brand "Xentec" I have had pretty good luck. Although these items are branded with many different names now days.

The re-looked at the H7 LED kit you showed. The description is correct regarding heat from the LED headlight bulb. The woven heatsink at the back of the bulb is interesting, but I don't think it will do you any good if you have to stuff the heatsink into the headlight housing. I would pass on this for now unless you see how someone else has successfully installed.

 

Are you referring to this HID ballast?

http://www.hidextra.com/hidextra-uni...allast-single/

I got tired of HID and decided to replace my HID with LEDs. The LEDs are a lot brighter than the HIDs and does not interfere with radio signal. Also, it does not require you to drill a hole on the cap.

http://www.hidextra.com/razir-led-headlight-kit/

 

Has anybody installed these or did a full conversion?

 

You will need canbus error cancellers for your HID conversion. 55w kit will burn slightly brighter, but bulbs have a shorter life than 35w. Both will work though. When comparing HID kits, it's important to understand the component and technology the kit comes with as not all kits are created equal. In our view, MTEC kit is probably the best out there, but you're paying a pretty penny. There are cheaper kits, but could be hit or miss with quality control. There are a few we know of that had the strategy of initially putting out a great kit for dirt cheap, building internet rep, then completely scaling back quality and service, living off those old reviews. After surveying the field, we decided to carry Morimoto kits which we believe strike a good balance between quality and value. Their next gen XB35 kits are really top notch and backed by a 5 year warranty. These are also full kits including bulbs, ballasts, igniters, wiring loom, and canbus error cancellers

 

Do any of you guys have pics to post. I'm looking into buying the HID kit from Xenondepot 5000k .. Any advice.. Also I need to know if someone can help me install or know of someone really good to install them.. And do you light flicker.?? Did you order the kits with the additional CANBus for $29??
Please let me know.. Send pics also..
Thanks guys

 

I had a Phillips low beam kit put in, just the bulbs were changed so no need to remove the light unit . My kit was about 110$ installation 70$. The lighting is the best I've experienced.

 

I am not sure if prior year GLKs had projector lens on the halogen equipped models, but my 2015 has a normal reflector. I don't think a simple HID conversion bulb would work well since there would be significant scatter. I have been reading that the some of the better LEDs, which can have the beam focused, may work. I am also looking at this kit I found on ali express, but am scared off a bit by the fact it is coming from a source I am not familiar with and the quality is unknown.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/HLC-...8-03c11c9dca7b

Has anyone had success with using LED bulbs in a non-projector lens?
More specifically, a clean cutoff line, or at least one that does not result in oncoming traffic flashing you?

 

The 2013 is the same reflector as a 2015, I did aim them all the way down, but now I can see pot holes and it doesn't blind people since I aimed it down. It's very bright.

 

[QUOTE=rob_fed;6483639]Okay, I've done this to a few MBZ cars in the last couple of years and here is some general information I've encountered.

a. The resistor is used to add enough electrical load (current draw) to the headlight harness to simulate a 55w bulb.



That being said, some people indicated 1/2 current draw is enough not to activate the "check bulb" type message.

* 55w ballasts increase current load and you may not need a resistor.
* 35w ballasts may have enough current load, but the current may not be constant to keep the bulb warning off. Or you may experience flashing of the bulb, some call this strobe.
* A large capacitor +5000uF is used to stop the strobe effect by keeping enough voltage on the harness when the capacitor is charged.

b. 55w ballast may never trigger any bulb error

c. A combo of a 35w ballast and capacitor has usually worked for me

e. Load resistors used to simulate bulb current draw will get very hot. Do not mount them in the headlight housing.


How long do they last???

1. Old style, large rectangular ballasts, I have 2 working from 2010
2. 1st generation micro ballasts (metal case) very small and thin - lasted only a couple of months
3. New plastic housing micro or small ballasts have lasted longer than 2 months
4. Very new micro metal housing, looks like old style, large rectangular ones. Just got these, will have to update.
5. H7 bulbs seem to burn out faster than ballasts, with exception of the old micro style.

are you in the my nj area.. I would like to have mine installed by you.. Since you have much experience in MB cars. I have a GLK 2012. Please let me know or send me a PM