Tow Hitch & Wiring DIY - Big Savings
12-30-2013, 10:44 PM
#76
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Location: Red Feather Lakes, CO
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2014 GLK 250, 2016 Volvo XC70, 2013 Jeep JK Sport
Toogrumpy: Would you mind posting a pic of your Curt install? I also have a 2014 BT and would like to take this install on myself.
01-05-2014, 12:57 AM
#77
I did go ahead and let Uhaul install my lights. I was concerned because the part number of the wiring kit said it was for the GLK350. I actually cancelled my install and told the shop why. Then the Uhaul store manager said he would check with the Uhaul tech support. They didn't want to destroy the wiring either. Uhaul tech support supposedly check with Mercedes USA, they said the light wiring on the GLK 350 is the same as on the GLK250. A least as far as the trailer lights are concerned. I really wanted to do the wiring myself, but decided in the event there was a need for a warranty, I let them do it.
01-05-2014, 01:22 AM
#78
I think the photo did load, I hope. I don't think it's great looking hitch, but it'll will work. My other car is an 09 Subaru Forester, it's hitch is 2 or 3" high off the ground than the GLK's Curt hitch.
01-19-2014, 08:50 AM
#79
lessons learned
I just installed a Curt hitch on my 2010 GLK and first I want to thank everyone who posted. It is appreciated, even if sometimes the responses you get are not positive. I thought I would post some of the things I learned along the way.
1) The first thing you need to do is buy "Exhaust Hanger Pliers" I got one off Amazon made by Lisle for $18 and it saved me a ton of pain and suffering. If you can get the pliers on the pliers on the hanger, one squeeze and it's off. The rear ones are more challenging but still a lot easier than any other method.
2) Take the time to remove the exhaust tips. The instructions don't tell you to do this but it helps immensely and prevents them from getting damaged. There is a single screw and then they are press fit on. I tapped mine off from behind with a rubber mallet.
3) There are two part numbers from Curt, One fits all years(I don't have that number) and one fits just 2010-2012 (13059). Apparently MB made a minor change in 2013.
4) Holding the hitch in place while trying start the bolts to the nut plate is impossible without 4 hands. Start the nuts onto the bolts through the frame first and that will hold everything in place so you can wrestle with the nut plate on top of the bumper brace.
5) I could not find the access hole in the driver side beam for the bolt so I fished it in from the end like the passenger side. I took a grinder to the corners of the bolt plate they give you and then was able to fish it in between the bumper cover and the end of the bumper brace. If you do the passenger side first, you see what you're working with. I cut a length of fish wire off the passenger side after I put that in and fished a wire from the bolt hole out the back of the bumper brace and then hooked that onto the end of the fish wire with the bolt and plate on it. Then just pull the first wire back through.
I had plenty of room between the muffler and the hitch, over 1/2"
Good luck
1) The first thing you need to do is buy "Exhaust Hanger Pliers" I got one off Amazon made by Lisle for $18 and it saved me a ton of pain and suffering. If you can get the pliers on the pliers on the hanger, one squeeze and it's off. The rear ones are more challenging but still a lot easier than any other method.
2) Take the time to remove the exhaust tips. The instructions don't tell you to do this but it helps immensely and prevents them from getting damaged. There is a single screw and then they are press fit on. I tapped mine off from behind with a rubber mallet.
3) There are two part numbers from Curt, One fits all years(I don't have that number) and one fits just 2010-2012 (13059). Apparently MB made a minor change in 2013.
4) Holding the hitch in place while trying start the bolts to the nut plate is impossible without 4 hands. Start the nuts onto the bolts through the frame first and that will hold everything in place so you can wrestle with the nut plate on top of the bumper brace.
5) I could not find the access hole in the driver side beam for the bolt so I fished it in from the end like the passenger side. I took a grinder to the corners of the bolt plate they give you and then was able to fish it in between the bumper cover and the end of the bumper brace. If you do the passenger side first, you see what you're working with. I cut a length of fish wire off the passenger side after I put that in and fished a wire from the bolt hole out the back of the bumper brace and then hooked that onto the end of the fish wire with the bolt and plate on it. Then just pull the first wire back through.
I had plenty of room between the muffler and the hitch, over 1/2"
Good luck
01-19-2014, 06:06 PM
#80
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glk250
I just installed a Curt hitch on my 2010 GLK and first I want to thank everyone who posted. It is appreciated, even if sometimes the responses you get are not positive. I thought I would post some of the things I learned along the way.
1) The first thing you need to do is buy "Exhaust Hanger Pliers" I got one off Amazon made by Lisle for $18 and it saved me a ton of pain and suffering. If you can get the pliers on the pliers on the hanger, one squeeze and it's off. The rear ones are more challenging but still a lot easier than any other method.
2) Take the time to remove the exhaust tips. The instructions don't tell you to do this but it helps immensely and prevents them from getting damaged. There is a single screw and then they are press fit on. I tapped mine off from behind with a rubber mallet.
3) There are two part numbers from Curt, One fits all years(I don't have that number) and one fits just 2010-2012 (13059). Apparently MB made a minor change in 2013.
4) Holding the hitch in place while trying start the bolts to the nut plate is impossible without 4 hands. Start the nuts onto the bolts through the frame first and that will hold everything in place so you can wrestle with the nut plate on top of the bumper brace.
5) I could not find the access hole in the driver side beam for the bolt so I fished it in from the end like the passenger side. I took a grinder to the corners of the bolt plate they give you and then was able to fish it in between the bumper cover and the end of the bumper brace. If you do the passenger side first, you see what you're working with. I cut a length of fish wire off the passenger side after I put that in and fished a wire from the bolt hole out the back of the bumper brace and then hooked that onto the end of the fish wire with the bolt and plate on it. Then just pull the first wire back through.
I had plenty of room between the muffler and the hitch, over 1/2"
Good luck
1) The first thing you need to do is buy "Exhaust Hanger Pliers" I got one off Amazon made by Lisle for $18 and it saved me a ton of pain and suffering. If you can get the pliers on the pliers on the hanger, one squeeze and it's off. The rear ones are more challenging but still a lot easier than any other method.
2) Take the time to remove the exhaust tips. The instructions don't tell you to do this but it helps immensely and prevents them from getting damaged. There is a single screw and then they are press fit on. I tapped mine off from behind with a rubber mallet.
3) There are two part numbers from Curt, One fits all years(I don't have that number) and one fits just 2010-2012 (13059). Apparently MB made a minor change in 2013.
4) Holding the hitch in place while trying start the bolts to the nut plate is impossible without 4 hands. Start the nuts onto the bolts through the frame first and that will hold everything in place so you can wrestle with the nut plate on top of the bumper brace.
5) I could not find the access hole in the driver side beam for the bolt so I fished it in from the end like the passenger side. I took a grinder to the corners of the bolt plate they give you and then was able to fish it in between the bumper cover and the end of the bumper brace. If you do the passenger side first, you see what you're working with. I cut a length of fish wire off the passenger side after I put that in and fished a wire from the bolt hole out the back of the bumper brace and then hooked that onto the end of the fish wire with the bolt and plate on it. Then just pull the first wire back through.
I had plenty of room between the muffler and the hitch, over 1/2"
Good luck
01-19-2014, 06:10 PM
#81
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2014 GLK 250, 2016 Volvo XC70, 2013 Jeep JK Sport
have to agree, toogrumpy was kind enough to post this pic, and thanks for that... But this made me rethink installing an aftermarket hitch.
01-19-2014, 09:51 PM
#82
That's what it looks like. Its tucked way under the bumper. Unless you lay on your stomach taking pictures its not very noticeable. It looks much less obtrusive than the Hiddenhitch.
01-20-2014, 11:26 PM
#83
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Tucson AZ
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2010 Mercedes GLK 350, 2001 BMW Z3 3.0 Roadster, 1997 Cherokee XJ
The pliers are clever but I have not utilised them in the past. My method is to support the muffler or whatever is suspended with my floor jack until the tension is off of the hanger. The hanger is then easily removed. I will be doing this in another week or so & hopefully I will not need the pliers!
03-19-2020, 10:26 PM
#84
Can anyone re-up the photos for the taillight wiring? I'm working on my 2013 GLK250 and I'm getting some unusual results. I don't have a friend to stand on the brakes or a test light (multimeter set on DC) to make things easy.
A photo or pinout of the drivers side and passengers side brake light harness connectors would be wonderful!
A photo or pinout of the drivers side and passengers side brake light harness connectors would be wonderful!
