The Official GLK Problems with Aging Thread
Mechanic (independant) found signs of failing propeller drive shaft. After doing some due-diligence, this an area of vulnerability on all MB 4-Matics. Catastrophic failure usually totals car.
Replacing now at cost of $1200 including parts and labor - ugh!
Last edited by chuckmahon; Mar 13, 2019 at 09:28 AM. Reason: Typo
If youre coming to the end of your warranty I would look at trading it. The om 651 engines have their own issues, that if you are planning on keeping, I would ask in the diesel forum about.


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-Tailigate motor was making a loud popping sound when the gate was completely up. Brought to the dealership, they did adaptation and adjusted the assembly slightly. Sound disappeared.
- Intake air temp sensor was covered with a frost a few times during winter (it can get to -40C with windchill, sometimes even colder), which would throw truck into a Limp mode. The sensor was inspected by a local Benz dealership, tested, no issues were found with the sensor itself. Cleared the code, kept the car overnight in the garage, the issue disappeared. I'll have to find a grill cover for when it dips below -20C to help engine with keeping op. temp.
That is it. Brake pads haven't triggered a light yet but last time I measured they were down to last 5 mm. Will do brake fluid flush as well this summer. Going to do A3 service myself in about 900km and inspect how's undercarriage doing while at it.




It wasn't happy when I did start in the morning though
The fuel filter and DEF tank both have pre-heaters installed from the factory. Not sure if US spec GLK250 would have the same feature...
Bought a chinese Star Scan system (part of the $2500 cost of fixing the key and steering lock) and can do most of the coding and repair work. Added paddle shifter steering wheel too and coded it to the European shifting pattern.
I have a second GLK, 2011 (60,000 miles), so buying the tools makes sense. Most of the maintenance work started happening around the 85,000 mark.. ands I can use one car to guide the work on the second one, great for comparative diagnostics...
ATB to all,
Marco
No issues since last update. I wish it did come with 18inch rims. 20s are cool, but they are def bent by now. Engine mounts have been replaced. Flushed tranny for the second time and front/rear diffs. Front rotors might be warping again, so they might go back to FCP for new ones if this gets worse.
Driver seat has a rip in the bottom cushion...need to take car of that. I think new cushion or the cover is 200 bucks.
Probably will need new shocks soon.
Start with replacing the brakes as you planned, along with the defective speed sensor. Often times the ABS speed sensor may not actually be defective, it may just need cleaning. Once you've done the brakes, post back with how it behaves.
Start with replacing the brakes as you planned, along with the defective speed sensor. Often times the ABS speed sensor may not actually be defective, it may just need cleaning. Once you've done the brakes, post back with how it behaves.
Thx for the advise I really appreciate it and its exactly what I now plan to do. I ordered the code reader you mentioned and I will certainly check back after I get the brakes and the sensor worked out. Again thx a lot.
Tony
You could try soldering the wires back together and some heat shrink tubing. A solder set is $15, $3 for shrink tubing, fixed for under $20.



