chuckmahon

162,000 miles now on the 2010 GLK350 4-Matic.

Mechanic (independant) found signs of failing propeller drive shaft. After doing some due-diligence, this an area of vulnerability on all MB 4-Matics. Catastrophic failure usually totals car.

Replacing now at cost of $1200 including parts and labor - ugh!

MarylandGLK250B

... and nothing to report. No troubles since new. Going to do A7 service (incl. transmission F&F) and will check carefully for problems since we purchased the 75K mile extended warranty when we bought the GLK. 34 mpg since new, the most trouble-free car we've owned so far.

kombifan

Youre lucky. Also in Bethesda, and my neighbor had a glk 250 too but theirs was always...always at euromotorcars for issues. They just traded it in for a glc.

If youre coming to the end of your warranty I would look at trading it. The om 651 engines have their own issues, that if you are planning on keeping, I would ask in the diesel forum about.

srb1194

Did you make a decision on which shop to use?

Bob338

EXACTLY my experience, except 47K miles and mpg just over 37 with a few tanks over 40mpg on long trips.

MarylandGLK250B

srb1194: Yes, Star Auto Care in downtown Greenville. Great reviews and I had a long chat with the owner, who is also the mechanic who would work on the GLK. He used to work at Carlton.

srb1194

Were you pleased with their work and pricing?

jungt

2014 GLK 250. 52,000 miles. One NOX sensor at 28,000 miles. No other problems. It must love South Carolina climate.

MarylandGLK250B

Extremely pleased with both. They used 10 quarts of tranny fluid (which got rid of almost all the original fluid) and their explanations of the work were thorough. Happy to say my GLK is still in great shape. Price was extremely reasonable, >$200 less than dealer.

srb1194

That's good to hear. Thanks

dzl_benz

2015 GLK250 4matic. 70,494km on the clock. No major issues but few things I would like to mention:

-Tailigate motor was making a loud popping sound when the gate was completely up. Brought to the dealership, they did adaptation and adjusted the assembly slightly. Sound disappeared.
- Intake air temp sensor was covered with a frost a few times during winter (it can get to -40C with windchill, sometimes even colder), which would throw truck into a Limp mode. The sensor was inspected by a local Benz dealership, tested, no issues were found with the sensor itself. Cleared the code, kept the car overnight in the garage, the issue disappeared. I'll have to find a grill cover for when it dips below -20C to help engine with keeping op. temp.

That is it. Brake pads haven't triggered a light yet but last time I measured they were down to last 5 mm. Will do brake fluid flush as well this summer. Going to do A3 service myself in about 900km and inspect how's undercarriage doing while at it.

jungt

WOW, -40 C and it would start sitting outside W/O block heater?

dzl_benz

No, I had it plugged in all night It wasn't happy when I did start in the morning though The fuel filter and DEF tank both have pre-heaters installed from the factory. Not sure if US spec GLK250 would have the same feature...

andreigbs

No block heater on mine, but the fuel filter and DEF tank have pre-heaters installed.

92k miles and going strong.

mbussado

I bought this second hand at 60K miles in 2013. Never had any issues with it. Last year had to replace the key and steering lock system ($2500). This year the pinion bearing in the rear diff wore out. MB wanted $8500 to replace the whole diff. I bought one from an ebay scrapper with 60,000 miles on it (Make sure you buy the one with the 3.67 ratio) and replaced it. Including a couple of tools, total cost $800 and 4 hours of work. Did my own transmission and torque converter flush and the front and rear diff oils.

Bought a chinese Star Scan system (part of the $2500 cost of fixing the key and steering lock) and can do most of the coding and repair work. Added paddle shifter steering wheel too and coded it to the European shifting pattern.

I have a second GLK, 2011 (60,000 miles), so buying the tools makes sense. Most of the maintenance work started happening around the 85,000 mark.. ands I can use one car to guide the work on the second one, great for comparative diagnostics...

ATB to all,

Marco

NYCGLK

10 years yesterday, 93k miles. Had it since new.
No issues since last update. I wish it did come with 18inch rims. 20s are cool, but they are def bent by now. Engine mounts have been replaced. Flushed tranny for the second time and front/rear diffs. Front rotors might be warping again, so they might go back to FCP for new ones if this gets worse.
Driver seat has a rip in the bottom cushion...need to take car of that. I think new cushion or the cover is 200 bucks.
Probably will need new shocks soon.

chuckmahon

Air intake hoses - the cloth permeable hoses that connect to front grill ald lead to each engine air intake - one on each side of engine. Mine are shredded and disintegration just from age and wear. I pulled both out - any real reason to replace? Do these even serve a purpose?

TPete19

Yes, you should replace them. These help to pull in air at the outside temperature rather than hot air from the engine bay. I've seen a few people report them disintegrating, so you may explore a different solution. But, you can get these for like $50 each from some of the OEM parts sites. FCP Euro even has these listed at $62 each, so they really aren't too expensive to get and have a lifetime replacement on them.

chuckmahon

Thank you! And thank you for the explanation - makes total sense.

Tony Lee

I have a 2012 Mercedes glk 350 4matic that was perfect up until the last two weeks. Now I have an abs light on traction control light, brake pad wear light and as of last night a EBD error. I have all the brake parts and sensors ordered and with a code scan I know one of my speed sensors are gone. I have a few questions that I hope someone can help me with. 1. I am thinking of purchasing a Code reader but unsure what one to buy. I want something that will actually diagnose an issue as in for instance the ABS wheel speed sensor. It great to have a scan that tells you a speed sensor is gone but I want one that will tell me which one is gone. Also as of last night the car appears to be going into LIMP mode? I have a Audi TTS that has this feature and I can now only assume the Mercedes has one as well. After changing the oil I took the car out and it appeared fine but it will only accelerate to about 50 kms per hour then is just stop accelerating. Stop pushing on the accelerator and the car car slows then you can push it again it will accelerate to about 50 then slows again. This all started just as the EBD error appeared on the dash! Anyone have any experience with this issue? I know there are many other possibilities hence the question about a good code reader. I am guessing this is brake related/ speed sensor related but uncertain. Love your help guys

andreigbs

Check out CarSoft for MB. They will diagnose and reset various controllers.

Start with replacing the brakes as you planned, along with the defective speed sensor. Often times the ABS speed sensor may not actually be defective, it may just need cleaning. Once you've done the brakes, post back with how it behaves.

Tony Lee

Thx

Thx for the advise I really appreciate it and its exactly what I now plan to do. I ordered the code reader you mentioned and I will certainly check back after I get the brakes and the sensor worked out. Again thx a lot.

Tony

C300fan2

When you get the reader you can on on their website and download the newest firmware for it.

Tony Lee

I have the Code reader and it works perfectly. Front brakes are done and working on the rear but I have a problem. One of the pins on the harness that holds the brake pad wear sensor is corroded and now snapped off. I am having a hell of a job finding this part. Its the cable/ harness that the brake pad sensor plugs into. Anyone have any ideas? I am having difficulty even finding the part anywhere its like its not listed?

andreigbs

You'll have to live without a brake wear sensor on the rear, along with a warning light on the dash until you replace.

You could try soldering the wires back together and some heat shrink tubing. A solder set is $15, $3 for shrink tubing, fixed for under $20.