When was the last time anybody drove a car until the engine wore out? In my 48 years of driving I only had one engine failure. That was in a 1980 Pontiac Phoenix 2.8 V6. The oil pump failed at highway speed and lost oil pressure. I never even owned a car that burned oil. I've driven some high mileage vehicles.
I did have a Ford truck with a 351W that leaked a quart of oil every 100 miles from the rear main seal though.

 

Jaguar says 16000, that’s dumb. No wonder they don’t last , do yourself a favor and get an oil test done , I’ve used Blackstone. There are just to many complicated systems in new motors, and the cost of replacement is excessive. Isn’t the 12 just two Ford 6s made into a 12? . Take a look at the inside of an old motor that goes through lack of changes . Extended changes are a bs sales tactic .

 

That's a very odd sales technique when the majority of profit on a new vehicle is through dealer service and maintenance. On luxury brands this is even more evident. Luxury car owners are far more likely to bring their cars to the dealer for service and maintenance.

 

The majority of profit shtick is actually not true. It is a great sales pitch we dealers invented to convince folks we are really not making a lot of money selling you this $70,000 car. We sell them cheap so we can service them! Factually, there are a number of potential profit centers in a franchise but, it all starts with selling the car.

 

Just like Shick makes all its money selling you that razor.

 

Like LED light bulbs these day (they all fail at same time, amazing), I think they're designed to last exactly as long as the factory warranty.

 

The best reason for changing oil every 5K miles? No dipstick. Does anyone really believe the inconsistent readings produced by the electronic sensors and the hard to find display? Replacing the oil every 5K -- measuring what's drained and filling to spec -- is the only reassurance that you're down a liter or less.

 

Jaguars oil change policy is simply, stupidly Negligent.

 

When I clean the accumulated brake dust off my wheels once a year I always notice slightly quicker acceleration, somewhat shorter stopping distances and quicker turn-in. MPG is also up probably around 8%. This is due to the reduced rotating mass of the now clean wheels. An added benefit is they become shiny again.

 

Have you tried one of those super magnets that clamps around your fuel line? Up to 20% increase in mpg -- guaranteed!

 

Funny you bring that up. I use two of them. Simple math indicated to me I would see a 40% increase in MPG but at best I've seen around a 37% increase and that's on a good day. Usually hovers around 34~35%. That's okay but I'm not entirely satisfied/impressed.

 

That's why you have to pay close attention to the "up to" part of the claim. I was getting only 14% until I wrapped some copper tape around the fuel line underneath the magnet. I didn't get any mileage increase but my acceleration is much smoother now.

 

Has anyone tried the oil filters that use a roll of toilet paper? Any thoughts on the best brand of TP to use? I'm thinking something like Charmin would be good...

 

Mr. Whipple admitted years ago that Charmin was not "all that" when it came to oil filtration. Privately, and you didn't hear it from me, he would recommend Quilted Northern.

 

Sorry -- no good. People squeeze it out of shape before installation, and leaks develop. I've heard Bounty works well if you can get the cap on over it, but on some engines it has a tendency to absorb all the oil, and you have to keep adding.

 

Might sound odd but I noticed the same smoother acceleration when I wear a copper wrist bracelet for increased life longevity.

 

Every 5k on today's synthetics and it won't matter what you use, literally. I've been told not to pay attention to BMW's 10k interval on my E46M, so I never have. But I'm also not changing my MB oil every year when the car doesn't see more than a couple thousand miles. So over the years I just settled on every 5k miles for everything (or 3 years if that comes first, which it does on some of these). The rest of the car will wear out before the engine on that schedule, unless you bought the wrong car or the wrong engine. That should help.

maw

 

Just to add a bit of context. 10,000 miles can be a lot of things.

If it's in a wet, northeast city, driving around the pot holes and delivery trucks for 10,000 miles, your oil will have long ago been beaten to death.

OTOH, if it's like the way I do 10,000 miles - a couple thousand miles around low-density suburban streets and freeways plus an 8,000 mile 95% interstate speed highway road trip, I have no problems at all doing a 10,000 mile oil change interval. In fact, I prefer it to being forced to stop mid-road trip for a quickie oil change (probably giving full access to the bowels of my car to some minimum wage 18 year old "technician"). ;-)

FWIW, my oil looks pretty good after 10,000 miles, and I should add that I'll pretty much change the oil after one of my epic road trips, even if I only have 8-9,000 miles since the last change.

 

Here is my recent blackstone analysis on 10k oil change at 110K (got the car at 70K and been doing it per recommended interval). This is my wife's DD; been using Liqui Moly Molygen 5w40 since ownership. The M276 is a stout engine. Now with my BMW motors which are higher strung, I would never go past 5K oil changes without seeing normal wear.

 

The logic behind this is that if you only go a couple of thousand miles in a year, you're making a lot of short trips. This leads to water vapor getting entrained in the oil, which leads to the formation of acids, which causes abnormal wear (corrosion) to the engine. If you go 2000 miles in a year and it's four 500 mile trips, you're fine to go longer than a year, But if it's 500 four mile trips then you want to change it to get rid of the chemistry experiment going on inside the engine.

 

Stephen is promoting liquid moly, and the write up by the oil analyst in Fort Wayne bolsters his support.
I am just wondering if the results would have been much different if the lubricant in use was …
Mobil 1
Amsoil
Or any of another handful of highly hyped lubricants.

 

LM makes good products, and they have plenty of fanbois on car forums. But there a lot of other great choices for the same or less cost, so YMMV.

I just replaced the oil and filter on my Bluetec; even though I had less than 10K miles on this interval, it has been over 1 year. I drove about 5500 miles during this time, but there was a lot of idling and crawling in traffic as well.

Perhaps when deciding the best OCI, it might be a good rule of thumb to go by (1) total miles up to 10K, or (2) 250 engine hours, or (3) 1-year, whichever comes first.