Check Engine Light On....This is what the Dealer Said
05-10-2012, 02:44 PM
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2014 CLA 45 AMG; 2012 GLK 350 4MATIC (totaled); 2009 VW GTI (sold)
Check Engine Light On....This is what the Dealer Said
So last night, after paying a visit to my new born baby nephew, noticed the check engine light on, and it never turned off. So today I popped into my local dealership (which sadly I am now getting to know all the staff all too well) and they ran their diagnostic tool. The fault code that apparently came back said there was a minor leak in the EVAP Fuel System 
However, the tech said no other fault codes were triggere/logged which indiciated it was a one time thing. Being that the GLK is so new, and there are so many sensitive senors, he said it could be something as little as during re-fueling, introducing some air into the system. If check engine light persists, MB will have to do full system diagnosis
Comments here would be appreciated with similar issues...
However, the tech said no other fault codes were triggere/logged which indiciated it was a one time thing. Being that the GLK is so new, and there are so many sensitive senors, he said it could be something as little as during re-fueling, introducing some air into the system. If check engine light persists, MB will have to do full system diagnosis
Comments here would be appreciated with similar issues...
05-10-2012, 05:39 PM
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2004 Volvo XC70; 2012 GLK 350 4matic
Conversely, our CEL came on as we started a 250 miles trip on a Sunday. I opened and carefully closed the gas cap. CEL still on. I took the GLK to a Houston dealer on Tuesday. A vacuum line on the intake manifold was the culprit. It does pay to have these things looked at. Good luck!
Wayne
Wayne
05-10-2012, 05:40 PM
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2010 GLK 220CDI 4M BlueEFFICIENCY
Similar issue: https://mbworld.org/forums/glk-class...ine-light.html. 
05-10-2012, 05:44 PM
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2004 Volvo XC70; 2012 GLK 350 4matic
OK, I read that story. Our CEL episode lasted 48 hours. The light remained on until the afternoon I started the car to take it to the shop. The problem was still there, but the light went off. You just never know.
Wayne
Wayne
05-10-2012, 07:22 PM
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Nissan GT-R BE / '12 Ducati-1199 Panigale S / '12 C300-4M Loaded/GLK350-4M Loaded
So last night, after paying a visit to my new born baby nephew, noticed the check engine light on, and it never turned off. So today I popped into my local dealership (which sadly I am now getting to know all the staff all too well) and they ran their diagnostic tool. The fault code that apparently came back said there was a minor leak in the EVAP Fuel System
However, the tech said no other fault codes were triggere/logged which indiciated it was a one time thing. Being that the GLK is so new, and there are so many sensitive senors, he said it could be something as little as during re-fueling, introducing some air into the system. If check engine light persists, MB will have to do full system diagnosis
Comments here would be appreciated with similar issues...
However, the tech said no other fault codes were triggere/logged which indiciated it was a one time thing. Being that the GLK is so new, and there are so many sensitive senors, he said it could be something as little as during re-fueling, introducing some air into the system. If check engine light persists, MB will have to do full system diagnosis
Comments here would be appreciated with similar issues...
#1 - Do you fill your car up leaving the engine running... be honest now? Ever? Don't do this. By removing the cap with the engine running, it can (depending on many factors) throw a code. Turn the engine off and loosen the cap slowly, limiting any quick pressure release.
#2 - Have you ever wiped clean the gasket on the filler cap, and/or its mating surface inside the filler neck with a clean shop towel? If not, GIVE IT A TRY with a little WD-40 too. Also sometimes the metal sealing surface gets heavily scratched up and damaged by the gas nozzle at the station. These scratches are your *Small EVAP LEAK*... Use some 800 grit wet/dry sandpaper (HomeDepot) to remove this linear scratches. Run the sandpaper around & around the circumference until the scratches are eliminated, clean it off with a clean shop-towel and a little WD40. This helps create a clean surface for the cap gasket to seal-off any gases from escaping.
Good luck!
Last edited by MBRedux; 05-15-2012 at 12:01 PM.
05-11-2012, 08:21 AM
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2013 E350
I may be wrong, but if a single event triggers the check engine light (like the gas cap not being closed properly), it takes roughly 16 start-stop cycles to reset the light.
My light will come on occasionally, but before I react and have the code read, I'll wait a week or so to see if the light goes off on its own. Of course, if the car runs badly, I'll have it checked sooner.
My light will come on occasionally, but before I react and have the code read, I'll wait a week or so to see if the light goes off on its own. Of course, if the car runs badly, I'll have it checked sooner.
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05-11-2012, 08:38 AM
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2004 Volvo XC70; 2012 GLK 350 4matic
Based on my event, the CEL may reset sooner than 16 starts. Or certainly in that range. I had not thought about that. It make sense based on the light appearing on Sunday and going away Tuesday.
Wayne
Wayne
05-11-2012, 12:41 PM
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Nissan GT-R BE / '12 Ducati-1199 Panigale S / '12 C300-4M Loaded/GLK350-4M Loaded
I may be wrong, but if a single event triggers the check engine light (like the gas cap not being closed properly), it takes roughly 16 start-stop cycles to reset the light.
My light will come on occasionally, but before I react and have the code read, I'll wait a week or so to see if the light goes off on its own. Of course, if the car runs badly, I'll have it checked sooner.
My light will come on occasionally, but before I react and have the code read, I'll wait a week or so to see if the light goes off on its own. Of course, if the car runs badly, I'll have it checked sooner.
The duration is determined by the severity of the problem. There are some issues where the check engine light will never cycle off. Please keep in mind that although your check engine light may reset and go off, the fault doesn't. The fault issue is listed forever in the system's memory as "UNRESOLVED" and will be seen by anyone with a STAR/OBD-II reader including you local or state emissions inspection agent, who may fail the car because they weren't cleared.
05-13-2012, 08:07 PM
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2004 Volvo XC70; 2012 GLK 350 4matic
More stuff from an S.A. Where we bought our GLK:
CEL comes on if the same fault occurs twice. CEL will then go off if that fault doesn't happen twice. Clear as mud?
The same S.A. Told me that there is no need to drain the torque converter during the 40k mile transmission service. Hmmmmmmmmmm...
Wayne
CEL comes on if the same fault occurs twice. CEL will then go off if that fault doesn't happen twice. Clear as mud?
The same S.A. Told me that there is no need to drain the torque converter during the 40k mile transmission service. Hmmmmmmmmmm...
Wayne
05-14-2012, 02:07 PM
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2004 Volvo XC70; 2012 GLK 350 4matic
Yet another reason to get a CEL light diagnosed promptly:
Frankly, something as potentially dangerous as a thermostat should set off flares, bells, whistles, limp mode, etc.
Wayne
Wayne
05-14-2012, 06:16 PM
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Small EVAP Leak PO442 = No Big Deal. Two questions:
#1 - Do you fill your car up leaving the engine running... be honest now? Ever? Don't do this. By removing the cap with the engine running, it can (depending on many factors) throw a code. Turn the engine off and loosen the cap slowly, limiting any quick pressure release.
#2 - Have you ever wiped clean the gasket on the filler cap, and/or its mating surface inside the filler neck with a shop towel? If not, give it a try with a little WD-40. Also sometimes the metal sealing surface gets heavily scratched up and damaged by the gas nozzle at the station. These scratches are your *Small EVAP LEAK*... Use some 800 grit wet/dry sandpaper (HomeDepot) to remove this linear scratches. Run the sandpaper around & around the circumference until the scratches are eliminated.
Good luck!
#1 - Do you fill your car up leaving the engine running... be honest now? Ever? Don't do this. By removing the cap with the engine running, it can (depending on many factors) throw a code. Turn the engine off and loosen the cap slowly, limiting any quick pressure release.
#2 - Have you ever wiped clean the gasket on the filler cap, and/or its mating surface inside the filler neck with a shop towel? If not, give it a try with a little WD-40. Also sometimes the metal sealing surface gets heavily scratched up and damaged by the gas nozzle at the station. These scratches are your *Small EVAP LEAK*... Use some 800 grit wet/dry sandpaper (HomeDepot) to remove this linear scratches. Run the sandpaper around & around the circumference until the scratches are eliminated.
Good luck!
05-14-2012, 06:18 PM
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2004 Volvo XC70; 2012 GLK 350 4matic
Small EVAP Leak PO442 = No Big Deal. Two questions:
#1 - Do you fill your car up leaving the engine running... be honest now? Ever? Don't do this. By removing the cap with the engine running, it can (depending on many factors) throw a code. Turn the engine off and loosen the cap slowly, limiting any quick pressure release.
#2 - Have you ever wiped clean the gasket on the filler cap, and/or its mating surface inside the filler neck with a shop towel? If not, give it a try with a little WD-40. Also sometimes the metal sealing surface gets heavily scratched up and damaged by the gas nozzle at the station. These scratches are your *Small EVAP LEAK*... Use some 800 grit wet/dry sandpaper (HomeDepot) to remove this linear scratches. Run the sandpaper around & around the circumference until the scratches are eliminated.
Good luck!
#1 - Do you fill your car up leaving the engine running... be honest now? Ever? Don't do this. By removing the cap with the engine running, it can (depending on many factors) throw a code. Turn the engine off and loosen the cap slowly, limiting any quick pressure release.
#2 - Have you ever wiped clean the gasket on the filler cap, and/or its mating surface inside the filler neck with a shop towel? If not, give it a try with a little WD-40. Also sometimes the metal sealing surface gets heavily scratched up and damaged by the gas nozzle at the station. These scratches are your *Small EVAP LEAK*... Use some 800 grit wet/dry sandpaper (HomeDepot) to remove this linear scratches. Run the sandpaper around & around the circumference until the scratches are eliminated.
Good luck!
#2: Nope. Never have since the EVAP contraption came along. Don't plan to start now.
Wayne
