GLK-Class (X204) Produced 2008-2014

GLK250BT-USA 10K Service

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Old 11-09-2013, 04:59 PM
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2013 GLK250BT
GLK250BT-USA 10K Service

Just finished an oil/filter change and top-off of DEF. Total cost for parts: approx. $110 and it took about one hour.

Tools needed: 8mm socket for plastic belly pan; 13mm socket for oil plug; and 1/2 drive ratchet for oil filter socket (shown in pic with filter).

You will also need latex/nitrile gloves, shop towels and kitchen cleaner for clean up of oil splatters.

In 9300 miles, I only added less than 3 gallons of DEF and it was completely full. It probably depends on your driving style and length of trips as to how much DEF is consumed, so beware if you get charged at the dealership for 7.5 gallons of DEF, it's not really likely that it's that empty.

Notes: oil plug is very long and there is a torrential flow of oil at the beginning of the draining process, beware and place your catch pan appropriately.

Used one container of OEM AdBlue and cut the bottom out to add the bulk fluid (Peak brand). It gurgles when you push the container down to actually add it to the tank, so direct the vent tube on the bottle so that it does not splash out. When the AdBlue tank is full, it just stops draining out of the bottle. Release pressure on bottle to close valve, unscrew bottle and empty remains back into your bulk tank. Put caps back in place and you are done!

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GLK250BT-USA 10K Service-img_20131109_155420.jpg
Old 11-09-2013, 05:22 PM
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glk250
did you buy the OEM oil? Is it synthetic?

I have always done my own maintenance, but am debating whether to take the glk to the dealership due to future warranty issues.
Old 11-09-2013, 05:46 PM
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'85 190D , '12 E350 BlueTec, '13 GLK 250 BlueTec
Originally Posted by mike-nc

Used one container of OEM AdBlue and cut the bottom out to add the bulk fluid (Peak brand). It gurgles when you push the container down to actually add it to the tank, so direct the vent tube on the bottle so that it does not splash out. When the AdBlue tank is full, it just stops draining out of the bottle. Release pressure on bottle to close valve, unscrew bottle and empty remains back into your bulk tank. Put caps back in place and you are done!
Thanks for posting this! Exactly what I had read and what I plan to do re the DEF. Don't intend to change my own oil but I don't want to get charged those exorbitant prices for the OEM DEF.
Old 11-09-2013, 06:23 PM
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2014 GLK250BT, Polar White; 2016 GLE 300d, Polar White
[QUOTE=mike-nc;5838360]
Notes: oil plug is very long and there is a torrential flow of oil at the beginning of the draining process, beware and place your catch pan appropriately./QUOTE]
How much oil did you put in? 9 quarts?
Old 11-10-2013, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by zboost300
did you buy the OEM oil? Is it synthetic?

I have always done my own maintenance, but am debating whether to take the glk to the dealership due to future warranty issues.
I believe as long as you have receipts showing you purchased the recommended type fluids, filters, etc. , not necessarily MB brands, and performed services at recommended intervals there cannot be warranty issues. Of course a dealer will tell you otherwise because he wants your $$$. I had the Consumer Protection laws (US) about this somewhere.

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Auto Warranties & Routine Maintenance
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How to File a Complaint
Auto Service Contracts and Warranties
Auto Repair Basics
If you own a car, you know how important it is to keep up with routine maintenance and repairs. But can a dealer refuse to honor the warranty that came with your new car if someone else does the routine maintenance or repairs?

The Federal Trade Commission (FTC), the nation's consumer protection agency, says no. In fact, it's illegal for a dealer to deny your warranty coverage simply because you had routine maintenance or repairs performed by someone else. Routine maintenance often includes oil changes, tire rotations, belt replacement, fluid checks and flushes, new brake pads, and inspections. Maintenance schedules vary by vehicle make, model and year; the best source of information about routine scheduled maintenance is your owner's manual.

What is a warranty?
A warranty is a promise, often made by a manufacturer, to stand behind its product or to fix certain defects or malfunctions over a period of time. The warranty pays for any covered repairs or part replacements during the warranty period.

Do I have to use the dealer for repairs and maintenance to keep my warranty in effect?
No. An independent mechanic, a retail chain shop, or even you yourself can do routine maintenance and repairs on your vehicle. In fact, the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, which is enforced by the FTC, makes it illegal for manufacturers or dealers to claim that your warranty is void or to deny coverage under your warranty simply because someone other than the dealer did the work. That said, there may be certain situations where a repair may not be covered. For example, if you or your mechanic replaced a belt improperly and your engine is damaged as a result, your manufacturer or dealer may deny responsibility for fixing the engine under the warranty. However, according to the FTC, the manufacturer or dealer must be able to demonstrate that it was the improper belt replacement — rather than some other defect — that caused the damage to your engine. The warranty would still be in effect for other parts of your car.

Will using 'aftermarket' or recycled parts void my warranty?
No. An 'aftermarket' part is a part made by a company other than the vehicle manufacturer or the original equipment manufacturer. A 'recycled' part is a part that was made for and installed in a new vehicle by the manufacturer or the original equipment manufacturer, and later removed from the vehicle and made available for resale or reuse. Simply using an aftermarket or recycled part does not void your warranty. The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act makes it illegal for companies to void your warranty or deny coverage under the warranty simply because you used an aftermarket or recycled part. Still, if it turns out that the aftermarket or recycled part was itself defective or wasn't installed correctly, and it causes damage to another part that is covered under the warranty, the manufacturer or dealer has the right to deny coverage for that part and charge you for any repairs. The FTC says the manufacturer or dealer must show that the aftermarket or recycled part caused the need for repairs before denying warranty coverage.

Tips To Avoid Warranty Issues
Here's how to get the most out of your vehicle's warranty:

Read your warranty. Often bundled with your owner's manual, the warranty gives a general description and specific details about your coverage. If you have misplaced your owner's manual, look for it online. Check the "Owners" section of your manufacturer's website.
Be aware of your warranty period. If problems arise that are covered under the warranty, get them checked out before the warranty expires.
Service your car at regular intervals. This is a good idea in any case. But for the sake of keeping your warranty intact, follow the manufacturer's recommended service schedule. Details are in your owner's manual.
Keep all service records and receipts, regardless of who performs the service. This includes oil changes, tire rotations, belt replacement, new brake pads, and inspections. Create a file to keep track of repairs; it will come in handy if you have to use your warranty. If you ever have a warranty claim and it appears that you did not maintain your vehicle, your claim could be denied.
Complain. If you think a dealer's service advisor denied your warranty claim unfairly, ask to speak with a supervisor. If you still aren't satisfied, contact the manufacturer or go to another dealer. You also may wish to file a complaint with your state Attorney General, local consumer protection office, or the FTC.
This article was previously available as Auto Warranties, Routine Maintenance, and Repairs: Is Using the Dealer a Must?

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July 2011
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Last edited by 420tee; 11-10-2013 at 09:57 AM.
Old 11-10-2013, 02:41 PM
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2013 GLK250BT
Originally Posted by zboost300
did you buy the OEM oil? Is it synthetic?

I have always done my own maintenance, but am debating whether to take the glk to the dealership due to future warranty issues.
The only oil that meets MB229.51 spec for diesels is Mobil 1 ESP Formula M. This is synthetic oil and that's what I used.
Old 11-10-2013, 02:44 PM
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2013 GLK250BT
[QUOTE=Alex Bel;5838455]
Originally Posted by mike-nc
Notes: oil plug is very long and there is a torrential flow of oil at the beginning of the draining process, beware and place your catch pan appropriately./QUOTE]
How much oil did you put in? 9 quarts?
No, capacity is 7.4 quarts. Being a bit wary on my first change, I added 5 quarts and checked level. Added last two checking in between. After 7 quarts it was on the dipstick, so I just added a bit more. I'll check it in a few days to make sure it is still where it needs to be.
Old 11-10-2013, 02:52 PM
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2013 GLK250BT
Self Maintenance

As 420tee posted, use the correct parts and lubricants, keep your receipts and you'll be fine. I also recommend taking a few pictures to further document what you've done. Oil changes and DEF refill are simple tasks that I can do in my suburban garage very easily plus I like to do it.

For the more complicated services: brake fluid change, transmission service, etc. I'll take to the dealer or independent MB garage. I'm certainly not against dealer service, I just like to do the simple tasks to learn more about my cars, given my limited space and equipment.
Old 11-10-2013, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by mike-nc
The only oil that meets MB229.51 spec for diesels is Mobil 1 ESP Formula M. This is synthetic oil and that's what I used.
Amazon still sells it for $49.43 (Pack of 6):
Mobil 1 105856-CASE M 5W-40 ESP Formula Motor Oil - 1 Quart Bottle, (Pack of 6) : Amazon.com : Automotive Mobil 1 105856-CASE M 5W-40 ESP Formula Motor Oil - 1 Quart Bottle, (Pack of 6) : Amazon.com : Automotive

Not sure where else get it cheaper...

How about re-setting maintenance service indicator and possible software update?

Also according to the "Maintenance Booklet" 10K includes:
Replace wiper blades;
Replace combination filter ( is it cabin air filter? );
Tire rotation;
Activate Tire Pressure Monitoring System (why?)

Last edited by Alex Bel; 11-10-2013 at 03:51 PM.
Old 11-10-2013, 04:05 PM
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2014 ML350 Bluetec
Just placed an order, $53.01 shipped. I had it in my save for later and I thought it only went down $0.10 for the whole pack... Still cheaper than what MB sells it for, $8.25 + 8.25% (TX) = $8.93
Got it for $8.84 each lol...

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Old 11-11-2013, 06:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Alex Bel
Amazon still sells it for $49.43 (Pack of 6):
Mobil 1 105856-CASE M 5W-40 ESP Formula Motor Oil - 1 Quart Bottle, (Pack of 6) : Amazon.com : Automotive

Not sure where else get it cheaper...

How about re-setting maintenance service indicator and possible software update?

Also according to the "Maintenance Booklet" 10K includes:
Replace wiper blades;
Replace combination filter ( is it cabin air filter? );
Tire rotation;
Activate Tire Pressure Monitoring System (why?)
I reset the service indicator already. Wiper blades and filter are only 4 mos. old, so they are fine. Tire rotation is done, also. I cleaned the area under the wiper blades with a brush, there was some clogging of the bottom holes with dirt or caked in debris. Other areas where still looking good. I'll activate the TPMS, but it shows tire pressure just fine. It may need to be done after the tire rotation to correctly read the pressure since it was probably boosted to the proper level by the tire shop.
Old 11-11-2013, 11:06 AM
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GLK250 2014
Originally Posted by mike-nc
Notes: oil plug is very long and there is a torrential flow of oil at the beginning of the draining process, beware and place your catch pan appropriately.
Dealers suck oil out on most modern Benzes using the dipstick tube. I do same using Mityvac evacuator on my other cars.

Any reason not to do same on the GLK250?
Old 11-11-2013, 11:13 AM
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Which Mityvac model would you guys recommend?

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Old 11-11-2013, 01:03 PM
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GLK250 2014
Originally Posted by 14MLBT
Which Mityvac model would you guys recommend?

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I use the model 7201. I have had mine for years. It holds 8.8L, so can handle the large amount of oil that MBs use.

http://www.mityvac.com/pages/products_fee.asp

I once made a copy of the original Topsider (which we couldn't get here) and it worked well. But it eventually rusted at bottom, so I threw it out. After two other junky units (one a Liquivac plastic), I bought the Mityvac. No doubt the less expensive Topsider would do the job, but it looks to me like it is not as solid as the original units that everyone swore by.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too..._390306_390306

Last edited by 107123210; 11-11-2013 at 01:06 PM.
Old 11-11-2013, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by mike-nc
I reset the service indicator already. Wiper blades and filter are only 4 mos. old, so they are fine. Tire rotation is done, also. I cleaned the area under the wiper blades with a brush, there was some clogging of the bottom holes with dirt or caked in debris. Other areas where still looking good. I'll activate the TPMS, but it shows tire pressure just fine. It may need to be done after the tire rotation to correctly read the pressure since it was probably boosted to the proper level by the tire shop.
Mike,

Nice job and thanks very much for posting this info. I too like to do all my oil changes so your info is quite useful.

Best Regards,
Jim
Old 12-01-2013, 04:16 PM
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At 14K (KM), I was able to fit just under 2.5 gal. of DEF. I was surprised...It was mostly city driven.
Old 12-02-2013, 12:32 PM
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great photos, and what's the specs and where to get the oil filter socket(wrench)?
Old 04-21-2014, 07:11 AM
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bump-for a few pictures

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