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I have a E250CDI (212.082) Blue Efficiency 4Matic 2013 that all of a sudden started running the radiator fan on Full. This happens everytime but only when the engine is running.
Fuse 22 in front SAM is OK.
Xentry NO codes
Xentry Pressure ACC is within Green parameters
Xentry it is possible to Control the fan speed manually 0 - 90%
As the fan i running high it is affecting the consumption as well
I have read all the "fan on full" threads and nothing is matching up to my problem, If anyone can point me in a direction where to look i would be forever grateful.
I have a E250CDI (212.082) Blue Efficiency 4Matic 2013 that all of a sudden started running the radiator fan on Full. This happens everytime but only when the engine is running.
Fuse 22 in front SAM is OK.
Xentry NO codes
Xentry Pressure ACC is within Green parameters
Xentry it is possible to Control the fan speed manually 0 - 90%
As the fan i running high it is affecting the consumption as well
I have read all the "fan on full" threads and nothing is matching up to my problem, If anyone can point me in a direction where to look i would be forever grateful.
Did it start doing this with very hot ambient temperature?
I had this happen out of the blue with a very hot day. It was blowing just barely cooler air thru vents with the fan in the front just screaming.
Lack of cooling made me think it is low on refrigerant and added some. This made it worse for cooling as now there was no cooling at all with the fan still screaming.
With adding refrigerant making it worse I then let some refrigerant out and voila, it started working. System started blowing cool air like it is supposed to do and the fan in front slowed down.
Without driving the fan runs sometimes with very fast speed as the air flow is needed for the a/c system to work. The difference now is that the system blows cool air with fast fan speed.
I have a E250CDI (212.082) Blue Efficiency 4Matic 2013 that all of a sudden started running the radiator fan on Full. This happens everytime but only when the engine is running.
Fuse 22 in front SAM is OK.
Xentry NO codes
Xentry Pressure ACC is within Green parameters
Xentry it is possible to Control the fan speed manually 0 - 90%
As the fan i running high it is affecting the consumption as well
I have read all the "fan on full" threads and nothing is matching up to my problem, If anyone can point me in a direction where to look i would be forever grateful.
Did it start doing this with very hot ambient temperature?
I had this happen out of the blue with a very hot day. It was blowing just barely cooler air thru vents with the fan in the front just screaming.
Lack of cooling made me think it is low on refrigerant and added some. This made it worse for cooling as now there was no cooling at all with the fan still screaming.
With adding refrigerant making it worse I then let some refrigerant out and voila, it started working. System started blowing cool air like it is supposed to do and the fan in front slowed down.
Without driving the fan runs sometimes with very fast speed as the air flow is needed for the a/c system to work. The difference now is that the system blows cool air with fast fan speed.
I think the fan speed is controlled by the refrigerant pressure in the a/c system and over pressure makes the fan run max speed.
Nope temp was stable and AC has been cold all the time no problem with that at all. As i have googled the pressure seem to be ok as well (Always serviced at authorised MB dealers)
Assuming nothing been done to the HVAC system and it is healthy and this trouble appears suddenly.....................
.
99% culprit is a defective refrigerant pressure sensor reading fake high. Fake high ref-press reading will make ECM speed up the fan to avoid over pressure of HVAC system.
In order to prove it, very simple :
Cool down engine and engine bay at least 12 hours, to make it back to ambient temperature including engine coolant temp.
And use this chart below to compare the R134A pressure reading at your Xentry #1 in red , based on the ambient temperature, which you can use the one in your bumper the B14 #2 in red.
Difference of 1 to 1.5 BAR between MB sensor to the chart is acceptable.
.
.
Convert the PSI to BAR, divided by 14.5.
I give you an example of an engine and engine bay at ambient temperature, see the R134A pressure at the LIQUID ( High ) side and the Xentry one.
YES, that is way too high if after 12 hours engine shut down. It is then 100% guaranteed your Ref-Press sensor gone bad.
Its common to fail at the age it is now, it lives in a very stress state/location.
Your R134A is like being at 78C...... ambient temp
Last edited by S-Prihadi; Jul 19, 2024 at 05:48 AM.
Reason: ADD INFO
GREAT! Thanks for this S-Prihadi
I will get hold of an sensor and replace it as soon as i can.
Is it necessary för it to be an original part (A2110000283)?
You do have empty the whole system to be able to change it right?
Is it some kind och special oil, or is the PAG 46 ok with this compressor?
GREAT! Thanks for this S-Prihadi
I will get hold of an sensor and replace it as soon as i can.
Is it necessary för it to be an original part (A2110000283)?
You do have empty the whole system to be able to change it right?
Is it some kind och special oil, or is the PAG 46 ok with this compressor?
Do not mess with the compressor oil.
You want to DIY this or get it to a proper HVAC specialist ?
Use genuine MB parts, don't use others, its conversion value may not be the same.
Read my link on the AMG63 CLS repair I did, it tells you everything, including pre-caution
Last edited by S-Prihadi; Jul 19, 2024 at 05:59 AM.
One word of advice, make sure the vacuuming process is minimum 2 hours or better if the so called HVAC Pro, has stand alone micron sensor like me to see proper result at HVAC system and not
at shop RRR machine manifold.
Those RRR machines are piece of sh-iet for their vacuum pump size and super long small 9/16" hose is bad.
For something like this I would diy it and a way to eliminate the need for the vacuum process is to screw the new sensor in place before letting just all refrigerant out.
You can screw the sensor by hand against pressure that is almost zero. As long as there is any refrigerant pressure at all in the system there is no air going in. I assume this sensor screws in the side of a pipe (tube).
After new sensor in place just add new refrigerant and if you let it almost all out you can go by the amount the sticker in the front under the hood says. A pair of pressure gauges helps but you can also monitor the air temp at the vents for the system performance.
But I would add new compressor oil as most of the oil in system comes out with the old charge.
Your car is 2013, that means it is 11 years old.
It by now would loose approx 80 - 100 grams out of the typical 590 grams R134A ( must see the WIS for your engine type ) charge level.
The only way to verify and correct the charge level is to do it properly in a proper HVAC shop or you buy the DIY gear like I did, which will cost you a "fortune" if for your own single car use.
What Arrie propose is in blue and red : For something like this I would diy it and a way to eliminate the need for the vacuum process is to screw the new sensor in place before letting just all refrigerant out.
The one in red is I am sure is illegal if in Sweden ( and in USA ) if you do not recover it to a proper recovery bottle to be send back to a recycling center.
Also there is no way to know the r134A charge level in your car unless you recover it with a recovery machine and not dumped it to atmosphere.
With a recovery machine, you can weight it with a proper 2 grams accurate scale.
A good proper vacuum down to a true 400 microns or lower will do your HVAC system lots of good for longevity.
Last edited by S-Prihadi; Jul 19, 2024 at 11:17 PM.
Your car is 2013, that means it is 11 years old.
It by now would loose approx 80 - 100 grams out of the typical 590 grams R134A ( must see the WIS for your engine type ) charge level.
The only way to verify and correct the charge level is to do it properly in a proper HVAC shop or you buy the DIY gear like I did, which will cost you a "fortune" if for your own single car use.
What Arrie propose is in blue and red : For something like this I would diy it and a way to eliminate the need for the vacuum process is to screw the new sensor in place before letting just all refrigerant out.
The one in red is I am sure is illegal if in Sweden ( and in USA ) if you do not recover it to a proper recovery bottle to be send back to a recycling center.
Also there is no way to know the r134A charge level in your car unless you recover it with a recovery machine and not dumped it to atmosphere.
With a recovery machine, you can weight it with a proper 2 grams accurate scale.
A good proper vacuum down to a true 400 microns or lower will do your HVAC system lots of good for longevity.
Dear S-Prihadi,
The 134a refrigerant was developed for no ill effects to the environment after the law makers banned selling the R12 (I think it was called R12) to public as Ozone Layer Destroying Chemical. R134a is now considered as a "Greenhouse Gas", but so is CO2 that we drink millions of gallons every day.
You can have the a/c system evacuated with proper equipment to a point that the system has almost zero pressure and then swap out the sensor eliminating the long vacuuming process.
Your talk is correct about how to do it, but I can guarantee most of the DIYers that have to empty the system for whatever reason just let it all out...
Yes Arrie, I agree with you. R134A has GWP ( Global Warming Potential ) of 1,430 and 14 years lifetime while C02 is 1 GWP ........
is not as bad as the oldie R12 at 10,800 GWP and 100 years lifetime.
All reference/comparison are made to C02. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Global...B1%202%20years.
Let's leave it to OP to decide if he wants to go DIY, at the least I told him the legality side in his country.
My country has no such laws/restriction for DIY., hell there is not even any refrigerant recycling facility available.
While you think vacuuming is a long waste of time process, it is actually one of the most important process of any HVAC work, proper vacuuming down to as "dry" as possible level.
If one wants maximum HVAC performance and longest longevity, good vacuuming is the first line of defense, all other requirement done properly too.
Good vacuuming removes the "enemies" of HVAC system, which is air and water moisture.
Also it is good for Flash's 11 years old HVAC system to get a proper RRR, including leak test and if the HVAC shop is really good, they can do acid test on the compressor oil and inspect the
oil and R134a mix visually to see how good or bad is the current HVAC system. When done properly all these inspection, one can have a peace of mind for his HVAC condition many years down the road.
When I give advice to a fellow members, priority 1 is the proper way to do the job and if cost or inconvenience comes with the job, well... it is what it is.
If we can cut cost while doing proper job DIY, it is good, but not always possible when and if the job requires special equipment we do not own....yet.
Thanks to both of you, I will go for the ProShop version. Both for the enviroment and for the reason S-Prihadi mentioned. 11years and prolly no AC service on the car ever, so the fact that there is any refrigerant at all left is a miracle.
When done please share the report with us.
I am curious on your car R134a loss over the 11 years ( assumed this will be its first time RRR ) , in much colder climate like in Sweden where your HVAC is not run all the time like
mine in the tropics.
Of course the loss is based on assumption that MB did the R134A charge a 100% accurate during its initial assembly.
My car was about 200 grams short , 9 years when at April 2023, 36,000KM there about.
I strongly believed this is the local MB assembly plant poor job was responsible for 100 grams of it.
My car is locally assembled in Indonesia.
Still havent replaced it, garage is on vacation still..
If i remove the connector to the pressure/temp sensor will the fan keep going on full or will it stop?
Still havent replaced it, garage is on vacation still..
If i remove the connector to the pressure/temp sensor will the fan keep going on full or will it stop?
I strongly believe if it is unplugged, the fan will go maximum as safety measure.
BTW, where is your actual ref-press sensor location, is it under the condenser ( easy ) or at its LEFT side which will require much more work ?
Mine is the unpleasant location, at the side.
Stored code for the ref-press sensor can happen when and if you disconnect the said sensor connector while engine computer was not totally DEEP sleep yet.
It is a STORED DTC right ? Not CURRENT.
DEEP sleep of our typical W212 gasoline modules version will be 6 hours after car use.
If car been un-used 24_ hours and you open the door, modules will wake up to, but will go to deep sleep much faster like less than 15 minutes.
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E250CDI 2013 RadiatorFan on full
, hell there is not even any refrigerant recycling facility available.
