- Mercedes-Benz C-Class: How to Replace Brake pads/rotors
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
GLK350 Brake pad and rotor replacement
Last edited by saab_story; Apr 25, 2018 at 10:01 AM.
My EBC Red Stuff pads are great once heated, but they take a while to heat up, and my commute leaves little room for spirited driving (as if the 250 was a sporty vehicle to begin with).
So hopefully these will give me the added bite I'm looking for.
My EBC Red Stuff pads are great once heated, but they take a while to heat up, and my commute leaves little room for spirited driving (as if the 250 was a sporty vehicle to begin with).
So hopefully these will give me the added bite I'm looking for.
Once warm, the are fun, but that never happens. On to a third brand then.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
It's just how they are. I had similar pads on my Legacy GT, but it was a car that was better suited to spirited driving. Even then, it offered better initial bite, and monstrous performance when hot. Same with my Axxis Ultimates on my Z3 and M3.
I had MB OEM pads and sensors in the bin/cart, and in another company, the Akebono pads as discussed early, in cart.
I have Akebono in 3 other vehicles and never had problems.
Thoughts on OEM MB vs Akebono ?
I think not greasing slide pins may be cause of outside pad wear only..
To me the akebono pads are fine and I love not having dirty wheels three days after washing the car.
Any advice?
I am looking to also buy them from Canadian Tire. (Am in BC, Canada)
Pads:
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/m...p.1160850.html
Rotors:
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/b...p.0168546.html
Thoughts on these?
Cheers
Any advice?
I am looking to also buy them from Canadian Tire. (Am in BC, Canada)
Pads:
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/m...p.1160850.html
Rotors:
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/b...p.0168546.html
Thoughts on these?
Cheers
I would recommend getting one of these: Motive Brake Bleeder Use it to push out all of the old fluid and replace it with fresh stuff. It should be changed out every 30,000 miles anyway. At least that's the schedule for my 2010 GLK350. It's pretty simple to do by yourself, as long as you have the equipment to put the entire car up on jack stands and remove all 4 wheels at the same time. This has been a very worthwhile investment for me, as I use it on all of my cars. You just need to get a different attachment to fit the different vehicles.
Good luck!
M14 x 1.5, radius seat
17mm hex, Mercedes 17mm key, or lock key socket
150Nm ~ 110 ft-lbs
Front brake caliper mount external torx flange bolt:
M14 x 1.5 - 45mm
E18
000000-005639
180Nm ~ 133 ft-lbs
Rear brake caliper mount hex bolt:
M12 x 1.5 - 35mm
18mm
124-421-05-71
120Nm ~ 88.5 ft-lbs
Front floating caliper guide pin hex flange bolt:
M10 x 1.25 - 31mm
15mm hex + 20.6mm flat
000-421-53-74
29Nm ~ 21 ft-lbs
Rear floating caliper guide shoulder screw:
7mm hex key
000-421-08-18
34Nm ~ 25 ft-lbs
Brake disc retention screw:
M8 x 1 - 12mm
T30
220-421-01-71
10Nm ~ 7 ft-lbs
Right brake caliper sensor external torx flange bolt:
M6 x 1 - 20mm
E10
910143-006002
8Nm ~ 6 ft-lbs
Front hub axle flange bolt:
M16 x 1.5 - 60mm
E24
000-990-75-03
160Nm ~ 118 ft-lbs, loosen,120 Nm ~ 88.5 ft-lbs, then 90°
Rear hub axle flange nut:
M26 x 1.5 - 17mm
32mm or 1¼"
000-353-13-73
350Nm ~ 258 ft-lbs, then stake
Rear wheel bearing carrier flange bolt:
001-990-42-03
70Nm ~ 52 ft-lbs
Front outer tie rod flange nut:
M14 x 1.5
000000-008261
50Nm ~ 37 ft-lbs, then 60°
Front tie rod jam nut:
M14 x 1.5
308673-014001
65Nm ~ 48 ft-lbs
Front inner tie rod assembly:
41mm octagonal
212-330-28-03
110Nm ~ 81 ft-lbs
124-421-05-71 (GLK350 rear caliper bolt) -> 018-990-00-01 (CLS63 rear caliper bolt)
000000-005639 (GLK350 front caliper bolt) -> 019-990-79-01 (GLC300 front caliper bolt)
In what way are the suggested updates different? How does the update make it easier?
Many thanks!
















