SAVZ

Both outer pads worn the same way? Probably something with the caliper bolts, how did you service them? What lube did you use? Any damage to the bolts or bushings?

saab_story

I did not check the passenger side yet, I should have. I can do that tonight but I am suspecting that this is just the driver's side. What do you suspect could be wrong with the caliper bolts? I used anti-seize lube on all the bolts which is what I used on every other brake job I've done before. But I did not grease the bracket bolts, which I just read I should have (never had to do this in the past). The bolts/bushings seemed fine. Is there something in particular with Mercedes that I'm missing as far as servicing the bolts? Or is it possible that something was torqued down too much?

SAVZ

The anti seize was on the threads of the bolts right? What I ment was the slider pins, what kind of lube did you on those? I've seen a paste like lube on there in the past with different vehicles that prevented the slide pins to move freely and caused excessive outer pad wear

saab_story

You are correct, I used anti-seize on the threaded bolts, not the sliders. I didn't even think of that because with my previous cars I've never had to do that. I checked the passenger wheel last night and it looked perfectly fine, so I'm fairly certain my issue is the slider pin(s) isn't retracting which is leaving the pad pressed against the rotor (which makes sense since it's always squealing occasionally when driving). Thanks for your insight - will be ordering all new rotors and pads to redo this the correct way.

Hugo L.

I just pulled the plug on some Akebono Euro Ultra Premiums.

My EBC Red Stuff pads are great once heated, but they take a while to heat up, and my commute leaves little room for spirited driving (as if the 250 was a sporty vehicle to begin with).

So hopefully these will give me the added bite I'm looking for.

saab_story

Not sure how everyone else feels about them, but I had the Akebonos at first and I did not like them. They didn't have the same kind of bite that the OEM pads had. Not to say they aren't a good option that may or may not last as long if not longer, but feel-wise, I did not care for them. I went back to OEM.

Hugo L.

I'll see. I actually bought some OEMs after reading some threads here, and they were a disaster. Zero stopping power. I immediately bought some EBC reds, which have very little initial bite, unless they are warm. So unless I brake like a madman in my stop and go, 20 mph commute to work (and have everything in my trunk fling around or on my seats fall on the floor) to heat them up, they are not appropriate for my needs.

Once warm, the are fun, but that never happens. On to a third brand then.

JohnnyC

likely improper bedding in or improper installation.

Hugo L.

No. I've been installing brakes on my cars for over 20 years, and I know how to install pads and bed them in.

It's just how they are. I had similar pads on my Legacy GT, but it was a car that was better suited to spirited driving. Even then, it offered better initial bite, and monstrous performance when hot. Same with my Axxis Ultimates on my Z3 and M3.

Steves40th

Wow, This was a great thread. I just joined, and this is my first maintenance project.
I had MB OEM pads and sensors in the bin/cart, and in another company, the Akebono pads as discussed early, in cart.
I have Akebono in 3 other vehicles and never had problems.
Thoughts on OEM MB vs Akebono ?
I think not greasing slide pins may be cause of outside pad wear only..

formerjeepguy

So I replaced my brakes about 1200 miles ago which is about four weeks of driving. I used akebono pads and stoptech rotors. After 1200 miles the I can still see the cross hatch machining pattern in the rotors. The wheels still look clean with no hint of brake dust. Yes, the initial bite is not as aggressive as the mercedes pads but it is also not a big deal and does not effect the way that I drive. I do not have to use excessive pressure to stop under any conditions.

To me the akebono pads are fine and I love not having dirty wheels three days after washing the car.

Mo Hassan

Total noob question, but as I'm reading through this, I am considering my situation. I've got heavily scored front rotors at the moment, and the pads need replacing as well. Back is completely fine. But when it comes to the front, how do I know if I need to flush the brake fluid or not. I bought the car used, about 8,000 km ago, it has 120k km on it atm, so around 75k miles. The front and back brakes were marked as done at 94k km, but with that being said, I do not know what they meant. If they meant they changed just the pads, because the rotors are ****ed, it seems crazy that they would've changed the entire thing and the rotors are toast after 26k km. The numbers just don't add up.

Any advice?

I am looking to also buy them from Canadian Tire. (Am in BC, Canada)
Pads:
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/m...p.1160850.html
Rotors:
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/b...p.0168546.html

Thoughts on these?

Cheers

SeaMonkeyGLK350

Greetings!

I would recommend getting one of these: Motive Brake Bleeder Use it to push out all of the old fluid and replace it with fresh stuff. It should be changed out every 30,000 miles anyway. At least that's the schedule for my 2010 GLK350. It's pretty simple to do by yourself, as long as you have the equipment to put the entire car up on jack stands and remove all 4 wheels at the same time. This has been a very worthwhile investment for me, as I use it on all of my cars. You just need to get a different attachment to fit the different vehicles.

Good luck!

C300fan2

I ended up purchasing a Etorx set for the job and my 2014 GLK 250 was standard metric socket. Canadian model if that makes a difference.

thunderbirl

Do the rear caliper bracket bolts also use E18 socket - or is it something else?

JohnnyC

I would HIGHLY recommend updating the caliper bolts. it will make your future brake jobs easier

124-421-05-71 (GLK350 rear caliper bolt) -> 018-990-00-01 (CLS63 rear caliper bolt)
000000-005639 (GLK350 front caliper bolt) -> 019-990-79-01 (GLC300 front caliper bolt)

thunderbirl

Awesome. The E18 was unpleasant to remove - even with the right socket. I'm thrilled to see that the rear is not an E18.

In what way are the suggested updates different? How does the update make it easier?

Many thanks!

JohnnyC

The bolt part numbers I provided have a bigger flange and are hex shaped. My brake system is modified, but you can see the difference.

thunderbirl

Very nice. Thank you!!

sblvro

I just changed my front brakes with oem pads. It didn't come with those black grease for the brake hardware. So it was a breeze. You have to remove the brake pads depth sensors on the right. Easy job.

mikenbrook

At 80,000 my 2013 GLK is on its 3rd set of rotors. The pulsating was again verified for the 4th time by the dealer here in SW Fl., they recommended another brand of rotor, for no charge, which I appreciated. They did say it's a one time final fix. Very strange since my old Buick at 144,000 is on its 2nd set.