2013 GLK250BT USA Air Filters
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 145
Likes: 2
From: Hickory, NC USA
2013 GLK250BT
2013 GLK250BT USA Air Filters
I found two parts, but the only description given is "air filter". Does anybody know what the difference is? (engine/cabin?)
651 094 00 04
651 094 01 04
Thanks!
651 094 00 04
651 094 01 04
Thanks!
Super Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 571
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From: Redding, CA
'85 190D , '12 E350 BlueTec, '13 GLK 250 BlueTec
I don't know the answer, but are you sure those air filters are for the cabin? The first 3 digits, 651, are the model designation of the BT engine. Looks like it might be the engine filters to me.
Super Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 571
Likes: 17
From: Redding, CA
'85 190D , '12 E350 BlueTec, '13 GLK 250 BlueTec
Usually the location of the two digits that signify some change, are minor upgrades of some form. Could be different filter material, different seal, or something that doesn't affect the functionality. The parts book would say something like 'sell current stock first.' You'd likely never know the change nor the difference.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 336
Likes: 11
From: Northern California
2016 GLE300d 4Matic
Just make sure you are getting 2 filters - not one. There is a filter on each side of the intake that need to be replaced.
Has anyone replaced the black intake hoses? I find it's hard to take off the top without breaking the hoses. It doesn't seem like particularly wonderful material. I was wondering if some flex aluminum wouldn't be better?
Has anyone replaced the black intake hoses? I find it's hard to take off the top without breaking the hoses. It doesn't seem like particularly wonderful material. I was wondering if some flex aluminum wouldn't be better?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 145
Likes: 2
From: Hickory, NC USA
2013 GLK250BT
Changed Air Filter
I can confirm that 651 094 00 04 will fit my car. Cost was $38.00 from Pelican Parts (no affiliation). Air box is under the engine cover, slightly left of center (from front of vehicle) with a red and a gray electrical plug on top, along with a controller.
Very easy and straight forward. You wil need a T-25 bit and a skinny extension and possibly a few cable ties.
Remove the 6 screws around the perimeter of the air box and there is also one in the middle of the air box. I disconnected the two cam-lock electrical connectors on the computer on top of the air box, but this may not be necessary. I just thought it would be easier. I also cut a few of the cable ties securing the wiring harnesses to get some slack. Also, this may not be necessary.
Pitfalls: If you decide to disconnect the gray and red cam-lock electrical connectors-make sure you press the safety catch on each one. They should easily unlock, as long as you press the safety. Also, the passenger-side air box screw nearest to the firewall is a bit difficult to get to. That's where the skinny extension comes in handy.
Lift the top of the air box up and force the old filter off the intake snorkel. Pop the new one in there. Line up the air box and tighten screws without pinching any wires. Reconnect electrical harnesses, as applicable. Strap harnesses back down and test run the engine.
Not sure what the dealership would charge, but $38 and about 30 minutes and you can save yourself some cash!
Very easy and straight forward. You wil need a T-25 bit and a skinny extension and possibly a few cable ties.
Remove the 6 screws around the perimeter of the air box and there is also one in the middle of the air box. I disconnected the two cam-lock electrical connectors on the computer on top of the air box, but this may not be necessary. I just thought it would be easier. I also cut a few of the cable ties securing the wiring harnesses to get some slack. Also, this may not be necessary.
Pitfalls: If you decide to disconnect the gray and red cam-lock electrical connectors-make sure you press the safety catch on each one. They should easily unlock, as long as you press the safety. Also, the passenger-side air box screw nearest to the firewall is a bit difficult to get to. That's where the skinny extension comes in handy.
Lift the top of the air box up and force the old filter off the intake snorkel. Pop the new one in there. Line up the air box and tighten screws without pinching any wires. Reconnect electrical harnesses, as applicable. Strap harnesses back down and test run the engine.
Not sure what the dealership would charge, but $38 and about 30 minutes and you can save yourself some cash!
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Member
Joined: Jan 2014
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From: Boston , MA
GLK250 BlueTec- 2014
I can confirm that GLK250BT (diesel 651 engine Std for USA) has ONE AIR INTAKE FILTER. Just replaced ONE by MB DEALER @ OTTAWA Canada.
(yip am a US customer on a long road trip)
The MB Dealer was kind enough to let me wonder around in his workshop as they (did some 'pre-due-service' to my GLK) changed OIL + Intake Filter. There is only ONE intake in Diesel engine and even I can see the other intake is blocked off just above the radiator! I did want to change the 'cabin filter' but when the Tech took those out - he recommended to keep it - and change after "spring pollon ' count has reduced!.
Side note = <<<<removed>>>
Hope this helps
Cheers
Last edited by miked807; May 6, 2014 at 10:25 AM. Reason: oops - wrong LINK for shell OILS
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Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 375
Likes: 18
From: Michigan
2014 GLK250BT, Polar White; 2016 GLE 300d, Polar White
Side note = I chose the SHELL DURAMAX engine oil - as recommended by a every LONG RANGE TRUCK DRIVER(s) we chat with @ every truck stop we stopped at. (I would post this @ the other post relating to oils)
http://www.shell.com/rotella/products/tpl-pro.html
I wanted the OIL CHANGE + INTAKE Filter = mostly as to rid of the WINTER salts, rid of bugs etc as we drove from Boston to PEI and all over NS etc. So far we done 8000KM approx.( sorry I switched to KMS in Canada)...
Hope this helps
Cheers
http://www.shell.com/rotella/products/tpl-pro.html
I wanted the OIL CHANGE + INTAKE Filter = mostly as to rid of the WINTER salts, rid of bugs etc as we drove from Boston to PEI and all over NS etc. So far we done 8000KM approx.( sorry I switched to KMS in Canada)...
Hope this helps
Cheers
It's " MB approval 228.31" from the Shell website, but not for GLK diesel. I do not know how big the problem is with that.
All I see is that 229.51 is approved by Mercedes for GLK250.
Member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
From: Boston , MA
GLK250 BlueTec- 2014
So, you chose to use the Shell oil NOT approved for diesel GLK, but recommended by a every LONG RANGE TRUCK DRIVER(s)?
It's " MB approval 228.31" from the Shell website, but not for GLK diesel. I do not know how big the problem is with that.
All I see is that 229.51 is approved by Mercedes for GLK250.
It's " MB approval 228.31" from the Shell website, but not for GLK diesel. I do not know how big the problem is with that.
All I see is that 229.51 is approved by Mercedes for GLK250.
>>so sorry had wrong links >>> should been the SHELL RIMULA OILs (( not the other one))) my bad!
Mmmmm...........Note> read this part of post...
...The MB Dealer was kind enough to let me wonder around in his workshop as they
and when I asked for SHELL (( rather than Mobil1 which I generally prefer to use on our other diesel cars - Audi's)) The Tech Comments were - " they generally prefer to use it on Sprinter trucks mainly in WINTER... but its ok to use anytime in Canada"....
So since it comes recommended by BIG RIGS (where their engines are far more prone to heavier stresses - thus need for better protections etc) WHO AM I TO ARGUE !!! > am ok to use it and would probably change it when am due for my FIRST NORMAL SERVICE (15K km in Canada10K miles in USA) ....
Also - Asked the same tech about the "oil vacuumed out" which is what another poster has had asked for. This dealer does not practice that - the tech said he just flushes out the oil via the bottom and then use their 'oil flushing system' if needed - (((which he showed me - seems like a very low pressure closed loop oil pump system for cleaning any used oil in cars /suvs)). He said that wasn't needed in my car yet - as we have only 8k KMs on it and wasn't really in any 'dirt' yet .............
hope this is helpful... but I am sorry I was not going to post things on THIS THREAD about :oils : and would like to leave it for OP's topic = filters ( just wanted to let everyone know - GLK250 = one inlet = one intake filter
sorry - am removing all mention of GLK OILS here .....!
cheers
Last edited by miked807; May 6, 2014 at 10:24 AM. Reason: oops
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 145
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From: Hickory, NC USA
2013 GLK250BT
I don't know the Mahle model as I've thrown the box away. I had no issues with the Pelican part #, as delivered. I only ordered one, so I don't have another to reference.
You do have to "push" the cover down to get the screws started. There is a "spring" mechanism to the air box so that it seals the air filter so that the dirty air on the exterior of the filter cannot bypass the filter into the intake snorkel.
Hope this helps.
You do have to "push" the cover down to get the screws started. There is a "spring" mechanism to the air box so that it seals the air filter so that the dirty air on the exterior of the filter cannot bypass the filter into the intake snorkel.
Hope this helps.
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2012 C63;1971 280SE 3.5(Sold);2023 EQS 450 SUV 4 Matic (Wife's)
Pelican parts says the 651-094-00-04 is for cars with code 800,801,802 or 809 and 651 094 01 04 is for cars with code 802,803,804,805,806 & U42. Sorry no idea what the codes refer to.
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