tuffcalc

When using the oil extraction method (I'm using a Pella) should there be any residual oil left over? How long should it take?

I pumped like a madman for at least 20 minutes. The last 10 minutes sounded like it was just sucking air and very little oil. Took only 6L to fill, so looks like about 1.5L was left in the pan.

Is this normal when using this method? It's my first time ...

iewoals

Are you using the oil drain adapter to suck it out or snaking a tube down there? I use the adapter and get ~ 7.4 Qts out on my 2010.

tuffcalc

Just snaking the tube in. Haven't heard about the oil drain adapter but will look into it.

iewoals

I think I got my adapter for like ~35 bucks shipped. Makes it much easier I think.

Here are some previous threads about oil changes with the adapter:

https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ctures-11.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/4449021-post194.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...er-method.html

NYCGLK

Why not unscrew the drain plug, which forces you to get under the car and take a look for any other leaks/cracks/dirt build up etc. It's once a year occurrence.

cmasten

i bought the harbor freight unit mentioned here and get the full 8 qts, takes between 5-8 min depending on if the oil is hot or warm. i keep the compressor running to make sure the it sucks up the bottom. I dump the full 8.5 qts back and the dipstick is perfect so i am getting the vast majority of it. You need to make sure you use the right probe. mine came with 5 and only one fits the tube perfectly to the bottom.

I also change mine out at 5000 miles with Mobil 1 0-20wt

NYCGLK

why so often and why not 0w40, which is recommended by MB and Mobil 1?

cmasten

simple its dirty at 5000 here in So Cal with all the winds and the dust bowl we live in ( I use their extreme weather recommendation which is about ½ the normal interval) and our weather is very consistent we average 60-80 ish all year round pretty much.

From what I have researched the 0-20 is sold as their economy improvement oil and the ranges seem to more than cover the band of temperatures I have seen.

I would not recommend this for everyone on this forum, obviously, but the car seems to run smoother and I do notice a slight improvement in mpg. About 2mpg on average and I fill up 2x a week and track it from oil change to oil change.

just a personal preference i guess. I recycle the oil and do it myself so I guess there is some value in the piece of mind it gives me :-)

Bob338

For the doubting Thomas's re oil extraction:

cindyclk

QUOTE=Bob338;6029451]For the doubting Thomas's re oil extraction:QUOTE][/I]


I have loved the topsider but the topsider will not extract all oil from lower pan ....I've used topsider on all my MB prior to this but need to get under car to get all the oil. In the past, I have been able to simply thread the tub down into engine and remove all oil. There might be some type of extension/adapter for the top sider but have not found it yet.

Bob333, have you used the topsider on our car...if so, what adapter did you use?

Bob338

No, I've not used it, but I just ordered one from Amazon. I'll soon know!

NYCGLK

If you track it, then 5k oil changes may not be a bad idea but it will be dirty after 1k miles...prolly as soon as you put it in and start the engine. You need to change air filters more often not oil. Why would dust in the air be in your oil?

0-20 in warm climate might be too thick to provide adequate protection to your engine, especially if you track your car. That also maybe why it look very dirty after 5k miles. In CA, given warmer temps I would use thicker oil. Would be interesting to see what oil analysis would show.

cmasten

I'm good, but thanks and I change the air filters out ever other oil change.

fabbrisd1

Well... 0-20 is not a right match for me, 0-40 is "the real spec" oil but 5-40 is what "most" dealers use..

In SoCal what is more important is air filter changes, personally I recommend SoCal replace air filter every oil change.. and Stabil Marine Formula treatment (Blue) every 10K miles too for crazed wide changes in Cali pump gas on a weekly basis..

107123210

The owners manual say that oils with following specs are approved for the GLK250:

228.51, 229.31 and 229.51. These are the "real specs"

Under these specs, there are many viscosity ranges. 0W-30, 5W-30, 0W-40, 5W-40, 10W-40. (see https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/index.php?language_id=1)

I don't see 0W-20 specified under the approved specs. I realize that light oils may offer less friction and better mileage on some modern cars. However, for a modern Mercedes diesel (esp with with Bluetec), I wouldn't diverge from the MB approved specs. And, I wouldn't use a light oil in a warm climate. Mobil 1 ESP Formula 5W40 with MB Approval 229.51 is one correct oil.

Using 0W-20 in your climate gives you Peace of Mind ??

NYCGLK

Is it that dusty in SoCal? I changed my filters at 40k after 5 years and they didn't look that bad.

rmfnla

It can be in the inland areas and near the deserts.

I live near the water so I don't consider dust to be much of an issue...

107123210

Link to this video just came in email. To me it reminds me of WHY I do use my extractor and probably why dealers do the same! While watching it, I kept thinking about doing it his way without a hoist.

http://blog.fcpeuro.com/2014/05/09/m...tor-diy-video/

He didn't mention that you needed a new crush washer before putting plug back in (although he did have one). He also did not use a torque wrench on the plug, which is so easy to do. I gave up on video 1/2 way though.

NYCGLK

Why do people think that dealers use extraction tool?
I saw C-class serviced at my dealer and they were draining oil out.

107123210

Well the ones I have been to do use an extraction system - MB even sell the adapter for the top of the dipstick tube, presumably for use by their dealers and independents. There was an earlier thread about the adapters. From that thread, it seems the C250s have a smaller dip tube, so perhaps that is why the C-class was being drained.

Some more info:
https://www.oilchangesystems.com/mer...nz-dealers.php
It would be interesting to hear from other owners. Next time you are at your dealer, ask them how they drain/extract oil.

NYCGLK

It was pre-facelift C-class before so couldn't be 250.
They were using something like this but much more industrial looking. Didn't look like something they would pull out just for occasional oil changes.

My Toyota dealer was draining all cars as well (that was 8-9 years ago).

mjhawkins2346

Did you find 0-20 oil that meets the MB 229.5 specifications?
I checked the list:
http://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/229.5_en.html

There are no 0-20 oils. You might want to pick an oil your engine is designed to use. The engine will probably last longer and there won't be warranty issues.

cmasten

I will be switching to a heavier weight oil, but ... I changed to a 0-20 last year before the holidays and my car saw many 20 degree or under days, as I took it to the mountains. According to the Mercedes owners manual.. 0-20 would have been appropriate. There is no indication on the oil cap. I referred to the owners manual to see what was recommended for colder weather. In So Cal we have pretty consistent weather in the areas between the mountains and the ocean, but the mountains get snow, so I took the lowest common denominator and called it a day.

5-30 or 0-40 it is

mjhawkins2346

I can't tell from cmasten's avatar if the car is a 4Matic or 2WD GLK, but I have a 4Matic and no effort will get my extractor tube to the bottom of the pan. As some other posters have noted, there's about a quart and a half left in the bottom. I like extractors because it's cleaner (I'm not fond of shimming my self under the car to remove a belly shield and a plug) and there's no possibility of leakage. I'm careful but there's always the possibility of a plug leaking one time that the treads aren't clean, the crush washer is defective, etc.

Apparently the dealers use an adapter plug that fits into the top of the dipstick tube and sucks from there. There seem to be a couple that can be adapted to our "home style" extractors:
http://www.pressol.com/portal/page/p...dspMode=Detail
And:
http://fluidevacuators.com/products/...adapter-detail

I'm probably going to order the one from Fluidevacuators expecting that some additional hose pieces and clamps will be necessary.

To once again cover oil viscosity and 229.5 oils, the Mercedes list as well as the chart in the manual never shows an 0-20 oil. In the California mountains (Tahoe, Big Bear, Tehachapi) it rarely gets far below 0 degrees F and the 0-40 oil is good to -13 F or better. The first number is the Winter Weight - the "0" so 20, 30 or 40 will all be the same basically, in cold temps. The higher number deals with the upper temperature characteristics. Dino oil uses viscosity modifiers to thin the oil to its Winter number. PAO oils, Like Mobil 1, use viscosity modifiers to thicken the oil to its Summer number. This is why Mobil 1 still provides protection at start up even when it's older.
Go read the bobistheoilguy.com website and you can learn more than you ever wanted to about oil and how the different oils and different situations apply.

cmasten

good info thank you

I have the 4Matic and use the Harbor freight extractor (6.5 gal) the device without any attachments connects to the dipstick tube perfectly and I am able to draw all of the oil out. It has an indicator to show how much oil is in the tank. I refilled with 8.5 qts when I was finished, ran the engine for a bit and checked and it was right at full.