Lowered GLK with neg camber
#1
Lowered GLK with neg camber
So I finally got some H&r springs put on my GLK. So far I love the ride height and handling. The springs lowered the car 1.75 inches, actually a little more than I expected. Alignment shop #'s say I have -2.4 camber in both rear wheels. Question is how much neg camber is too much? Anyone else lower their GLK have rear camber issues? I am most concerned about tire wear. I am thinking about changing the rubber coil spring pads to the 4 dot 17mm ones. They say it will raise the car back up .5inches. i am hoping it helps with the camber. Any help would be appreciated!!
#2
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2010 Mercedes GLK 350, 2001 BMW Z3 3.0 Roadster, 1997 Cherokee XJ
This is a concern with the lower springs. What still confuses me is from I have determined, the Euro models have a road height approx. 1" lower than the US market but do these have different arms? Here is a link to a company which can help. Not connected to me in any way shape or form. http://mbartsperformance.com/index.html
#3
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2016 Golf R, 2014 GLK
You'll definitely get uneven tire wear with that much negative camber. But, it sure does look good!
Does the GLK have camber adjustment from the factory or does anyone make a camber kit for this vehicle?
Does the GLK have camber adjustment from the factory or does anyone make a camber kit for this vehicle?
#4
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https://mbworld.org/forums/glk-class...s-exhaust.html
Post #25, K-MAC.
#5
So I finally got some H&r springs put on my GLK. So far I love the ride height and handling. The springs lowered the car 1.75 inches, actually a little more than I expected. Alignment shop #'s say I have -2.4 camber in both rear wheels. Question is how much neg camber is too much? Anyone else lower their GLK have rear camber issues? I am most concerned about tire wear. I am thinking about changing the rubber coil spring pads to the 4 dot 17mm ones. They say it will raise the car back up .5inches. i am hoping it helps with the camber. Any help would be appreciated!!
For me, it is a no brainer to say that your ride (one variable) is WAY rougher. Higher rated springs work at much less suspension travel. If the shocking was done correctly you now also have 1.75 in LESS suspension travel. The correct shocking is specified and required to give you almost violent damping on both the upstroke and downstroke. As a minimum, it will probably put more stress on your suspension components and tires. In addition, if you substituted lower aspect ratio tires, the tire provides less cushioning effects. Now this is a good thing in the handling area, as it gets closer to that ideal "instantaneous" response.
Last edited by Rdub; 05-31-2014 at 10:11 AM.
#6
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GLK250 BlueTec- 2014
Writing to BRABUS, in UK to see what they say about using 22inch wheels and LOWERED KITS......
They have a GLK with V8 (I assume its a 6.3 bi-turbo + lowered)
http://www.brabus.com/cars4sale/en?lang=en
They have a GLK with V8 (I assume its a 6.3 bi-turbo + lowered)
http://www.brabus.com/cars4sale/en?lang=en
#7
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Since the mid 90's model’s there has been no accurate Camber and Caster adjustment facility fitted OEM!
Only current adjustment is front and rear Toe.
To attempt to return vehicle to factory specs to resolve premature inner edge tire wear, improve traction, fix steering pull the only alternative for Camber and Caster is to fit offset, slotted bolts.
But these are inaccurate one only position bolts with a minuscule .3 of one degree adjustment (3mm).
After installation it's no wonder many owners then go on to stating dealerships or alignment shops still did not get it right/fix the problem.
We saw the need therefore "to fix it right the first time" by designing, developing, patenting (and re-instating from the 1990's) fully adjustable front suspension for virtually all models.
The current K-MAC kits have up to 4 times the adjustment of the one position offset bolts (both Positive or Negative). And unlike the bolts can be accurately adjusted - under load, direct on alignment turntable (no need to jack and reinstall each time).
Ongoing precise adjustment of both Camber and Caster settings if altering suspension height, fitting wide profile tires/wheels or for curb knock damage with the unique K-MAC patented design is just a single wrench/no disassembly.
For the rear, similar kits for precise Camber adjustment with additional Toe to compensate for the new Camber facility. Unlike adjustable arms K-MAC rear kits do not move top of tire outwards reducing all important clearance to outer fender when adjusting to reduce premature inner edge tire wear/improve rear traction.
Bonus with the four front and four rear bushes is that they are designed with twice the load bearing area and also replace the highest wearing suspension bushings. And with K-MAC no special tools are required to fit.
![](https://mbworld.org/forums/attachments/c-class-w204/283700d1397109035t-need-drop-what-do-you-suggest-4.jpg)
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#8
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GLK250 BlueTec- 2014
Yips miss you guys from AUSTRALIA and that aussie engine..uity!
KMAC rocks , I had their system on my Toyo LANDCRUISER (turo-biesel model) for years and did nearly 200K Kms all over Australia when I lived there ,,,,
Pity I cannot have their setup AND that
PHP Code:
[URL="http://www.tjm.com.au/en-oceania/products/bull-bars"]TJM BULL BAR [/URL]
SO IMHO , if anyone is thinking of 'lowering' etc AND value their ride quality , KMAC is THE WAY TO GO !!!
<nope just a user who has their stuff works and works>
Cheers
#9
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2.4 seems like a lot. Expect very quick uneven tire wear (inner sides). On my Porsche rear camber is -1.1 to -1.2 and you can see uneven tire.
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2010 Mercedes GLK 350, 2001 BMW Z3 3.0 Roadster, 1997 Cherokee XJ
In the following link, the drop mentioned is 1.2" front & 1" rear.
http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/s...10&autoModClar=
This brings the suspension down to what I believe is the Euro market ride height. There is a lot of air in those wheel wells. Very possible that camber adjustment not needed but now with KMac offering the bushings, a solution is available. Wish someone in Europe with a parts catalog would speak up so that a part comparison could be accomplished with the USA market components.
http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/s...10&autoModClar=
This brings the suspension down to what I believe is the Euro market ride height. There is a lot of air in those wheel wells. Very possible that camber adjustment not needed but now with KMac offering the bushings, a solution is available. Wish someone in Europe with a parts catalog would speak up so that a part comparison could be accomplished with the USA market components.
#11
In the following link, the drop mentioned is 1.2" front & 1" rear.
http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/s...10&autoModClar=
This brings the suspension down to what I believe is the Euro market ride height. There is a lot of air in those wheel wells. Very possible that camber adjustment not needed but now with KMac offering the bushings, a solution is available. Wish someone in Europe with a parts catalog would speak up so that a part comparison could be accomplished with the USA market components.
http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/s...10&autoModClar=
This brings the suspension down to what I believe is the Euro market ride height. There is a lot of air in those wheel wells. Very possible that camber adjustment not needed but now with KMac offering the bushings, a solution is available. Wish someone in Europe with a parts catalog would speak up so that a part comparison could be accomplished with the USA market components.
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2010 Mercedes GLK 350, 2001 BMW Z3 3.0 Roadster, 1997 Cherokee XJ
Really looking forward to hearing from you on the frt. & rr. camber numbers, first what the specs are with the springs installed & how far from recommended measurements. Then the numbers when you add the spacers. I had a fantastic shop in Cincinnati that could handle this kind of work without a question, did this type of work daily. Not so lucky out here to have such.
#15
I may have found another option for an adjustable rear camber arm. I am waiting to hear back from:
http://mbartsperformance.com/index.html
I'll keep you posted as I get the information and I will post it here or start a new thread.
http://mbartsperformance.com/index.html
I'll keep you posted as I get the information and I will post it here or start a new thread.
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#16
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W204 C63 Coupe, W166 ML350 BlueTEC, 928GT, C5 Z06 & IS300 race cars, EQE 4Matic+ on order
I so don't get this... you buy an SUV - whose only reason for being is the higher ground clearance - and then you lower it? Why would you do such a thing? If you wanted something that handles better, you should have bought a normal car instead. I really don't get it. Did you also buy bar stools and then cut all the legs down so they fit better at your dining table?
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#17
I so don't get this... you buy an SUV - whose only reason for being is the higher ground clearance - and then you lower it? Why would you do such a thing? If you wanted something that handles better, you should have bought a normal car instead. I really don't get it. Did you also buy bar stools and then cut all the legs down so they fit better at your dining table?
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W204 C63 Coupe, W166 ML350 BlueTEC, 928GT, C5 Z06 & IS300 race cars, EQE 4Matic+ on order
Indeed. It's called a caravan or station-wagon. Then there is a minivan, which accomplishes the same thing but using a different approach...
A slammed SUV is going to have about as much car-like handling as a large farm tractor. No suspension travel 'cause you molesed it, with a CG that you may have lowered by 2" from the 12" it was originally higher than the equivalent car to begin with, and a 1000lb weight premium. Yeah, keep deluding yourself.
#19
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Indeed. It's called a caravan or station-wagon. Then there is a minivan, which accomplishes the same thing but using a different approach...
A slammed SUV is going to have about as much car-like handling as a large farm tractor. No suspension travel 'cause you molesed it, with a CG that you may have lowered by 2" from the 12" it was originally higher than the equivalent car to begin with, and a 1000lb weight premium. Yeah, keep deluding yourself.
A slammed SUV is going to have about as much car-like handling as a large farm tractor. No suspension travel 'cause you molesed it, with a CG that you may have lowered by 2" from the 12" it was originally higher than the equivalent car to begin with, and a 1000lb weight premium. Yeah, keep deluding yourself.
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W204 C63 Coupe, W166 ML350 BlueTEC, 928GT, C5 Z06 & IS300 race cars, EQE 4Matic+ on order
OK - that's a reasonable answer. I can certainy respect that it's an aesthetihic thing that some people dig. I too have seen some lowered cars that look awesome - but at least in the case of a car, the lowering is conducive to a (at least perceived) performance increase. I just don't get the "Let's start with a heavy SUV with a higher ground clerance and CG than a car to begin with and then lower it", but I understand if it's a looks thing.
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2016 Golf R, 2014 GLK
Yeah it's purely an aesthetic thing. I wouldn't do it either, but I sure do like the look of it.
It's the same with my new Golf R that I have coming- I would love to lower it, but the practical side of me doesn't want to have the hassle and I know it's not really going to handle any much better.
It's the same with my new Golf R that I have coming- I would love to lower it, but the practical side of me doesn't want to have the hassle and I know it's not really going to handle any much better.