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Well finally got around to this again, the local dealers (Yes i called several) doesn't want to work with me and look up the part number! BOO!
One stated that I'm looking at several thousand dollars just for the wires and another few thousand to disassemble the car. WHAT?
I don't remember the part number is that expensive, even if it was $300-400 I would still do it. I bought a pretty long Benz wire harness set a while ago and it was only $30. But I suppose I will just get the local Audio shop to build me a separate connection from scratch if I can't order the original harness.
I want it oem as possible, but i have access to mechanic all-data
yeah its easier if i just provide the part number for the original, that way everyone here can have an idea of the OEM cost. I didn't contact my favorite dealer yet, they are quite far away from me, but I will see if they want to help with the project.
I want it oem as possible, but i have access to mechanic all-data
So I finally got some good information. It just is not possible to retro fit using the OEM cable harness. A custom one is recommended to be made just for the footwell lights. I think I will give up.
You would need the US VIN for one that is equipped with the Ambient Light package. Then the part number can be identified and it will be at least $2000 for the cable group as each is custom made to the VIN.
So I finally got some good information. It just is not possible to retro fit using the OEM cable harness. A custom one is recommended to be made just for the footwell lights. I think I will give up.
You would need the US VIN for one that is equipped with the Ambient Light package. Then the part number can be identified and it will be at least $2000 for the cable group as each is custom made to the VIN.
As an update, I pulled off my door card to plan the wiring for the side lights. I will be doing the wiring almost to OEM specs using high quality copper wire.
I ordered most of the supplies from the Mercedes dealer, should be here in a few weeks. I will update again when the time arrives.
That way would work, but quite sloppy. The 2.5mm2 REDWHITE is the primary power wire that connects to the front SAM module and fuse; so that means it will stay on when you open the door and continue to stay on while driving.
Finally got around to installing the front foot well lights. The big delay was trying to figure out how to crimp the ground point wire, I improvised and changed a little of the layout of the wire. The most time consuming part was wrapping the wire harness.
I routed the wire from the front SAM to underneath the dashboard. The original layout has the wires going under the center console/power seats.
Connected to the front SAM on connector 17C.
Puddle lights installed
I took the easy way out and paid an car A/V tech to install my lights to a truck that did not have the lighting package and no wires ran in the doors. The lights work as they should coming on only when the door is open.
I took my car to my local independent shop and they couldn't program with SCN, they need to program it with Xentry Vedoc. I called a few other shops and they all pointed me to the dealer.
Well I am truly defeated now. The dealership isn't allowed to program the VIN Option in. I wasted a 40 mile round trip and a few hours. They said I should try to tap into a circuit and run the lights off that. I am so disappointed.
Well I am truly defeated now. The dealership isn't allowed to program the VIN Option in. I wasted a 40 mile round trip and a few hours. They said I should try to tap into a circuit and run the lights off that. I am so disappointed.
1982 300D TurboDiesel (W123), 1991 300CE (W124), and 2004 SLK320 Special Edition (R170)
I might attempt the footwell lights. Running a wire from the dome light down might not be so difficult, but taking the door panels off just for a light is too much.
Finally got the red connectors in; they are part number 003-540-81-81. Its actually two housings, but you can't order it from the OEM.
@JohnnyC Which pins did you click in on the red connector? I got some wiring diagrams from alldatadiy.com and found it should be pins 3 and 4 for the 2011 GLK350. I plugged those in on their own to test and get nothing on the door light. It sounds like you had success with this route so I'm curious if you found out some other pin combo or what else needs to be done to get them lit.
Edit: Oh, it looks like you *weren't* successful? You had all the parts but it requires some option programmed into the computer? Did you pursue tapping some other wire?
I just gave up on the project. You would have to splice into an existing live connection, really no way around it unless you get it programmed by a dealer or specialist.
Hey, I've made absolutely no headway with this and I'm probably going to get rid of the GLK soon. But if it's cheap enough, I would do the footwell LED's... But I probably never will.
Where do you live? Wanna make some money and do this for me on my 2015 GLK 350?
Originally Posted by Vinnymagic
Hello everyone,
I am new here but wanted everyone to know how I wired in welcome door lights on my 2013 GLK that only had reflectors in the doors. I tipped down the console that houses the interior light. See the picture
Once you tip down the console turn the light sockets a quarter turn and remove the socket and solder the wires on the side and then
snaked the wires towards the windows (remove the sunshade courtesy light) that makes it much easier. You will need to flex the trip that runs along the interior windows down the door. Next sneak a wire inside the door through the door conduit into the foot floor area on both sides of the SUV.
The door wires can be run by removing the part of the door that pops out (horizontal) from the door window switch. See the second and third picture
01-30-2018, 06:25 PM
