Warped Front Rotors
I've told them that I want to escalate this. I bought a 2013 glk with 10k miles that they took back it had so many problems (which got me into the 2014) and now this one has the rotor warping issue and has had the occasional 3-4 shift clunk for as long as we've owned it that they haven't been able to fix. I'm beginning to question the quality of this car and MB in general given my experiences.
Oh and btw when i clean my wheels i remove them from the car completely.
I've told them that I want to escalate this. I bought a 2013 glk with 10k miles that they took back it had so many problems (which got me into the 2014) and now this one has the rotor warping issue and has had the occasional 3-4 shift clunk for as long as we've owned it that they haven't been able to fix. I'm beginning to question the quality of this car and MB in general given my experiences.




How did you folks who had this covered under warranty get this covered under warranty when the warranty is only 10k miles? I know some feel otherwise, but my wife is NOT riding these brakes hard and neither of us have ever warped rotors in our lives on any car except this one (even our 2013 GLK was fine, my 2013 E550 is fine, etc.). There is something else going on, either sh*tty MB parts or calipers dragging on the rotors creating excessive heat, etc.
But I am disappointed: With my Japanese cars, this stuff only happened well after 40k miles of ownership. Makes me think the MB pads are not compatible with the MB rotors even though that is how they come from the factory.
Best after market combo I have found so far: R1 Concepts drilled slotted Premier series rotors with Akebono ceramic pads. Nice gradual feel and good strong braking bite when I want it. Have them on my Lexus ( probably about 20k miles now) and boy do they feel good.
If my new set of MB pads and rotors crap out again after another 17-20 k miles, I will go after market and never buy MB pads/rotors ever.
Periodically, you will need to adjust the spring and inspect the shoes to keep them moving smoothly. You will need to remove the regular hydraulic brake caliper and rotor to get access to the drum brake. The cable pulley may also have corrosion or debris. Usually there will not be any issues with the actually plastic lever and foot pedal.
Periodically, you will need to adjust the spring and inspect the shoes to keep them moving smoothly. You will need to remove the regular hydraulic brake caliper and rotor to get access to the drum brake. The cable pulley may also have corrosion or debris. Usually there will not be any issues with the actually plastic lever and foot pedal.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG




Warped rotors on road cars is a fallacy. The real problem is uneven transfer of pad material to the rotors causing uneven friction.
Have a read:
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths
I would not be surprised to learn that the brake hold function in the glk is a contributing factor given that you have to press harder than normal on the pedal to engage the hold. Using the hold after hard braking with hot brakes is the perfect recipe for uneven pad transfer to the rotor.




As for the best hardware, its hard to say as there are so many variables. Some things to take in consideration:
-Type of Brake Fluid used
-Using Hard or Soft Pads
-Using Metallic or Ceramic friction material pads
-Correct installation including torquing hardware correctly
-Are you using brake quiet paste/grey brake paste?
-Brake lines free of air?
-Were the pads installed without any oil contamination?
-Do rotors have slots, dimples, flat, or holes?
-proper bedding in procedure
So if you buy the most expensive rotors and pads, but don't install them correctly they will not perform great. Or using crap pads on expensive rotors the pads will eat up the rotors. A common issue is not bedding correctly or riding the brakes.
For the majority of GLK owners, a typical inexpensive smooth rotor and a ceramic pad from EBC or Akebono will do great. Its not necessary to spend a ton of money on wear items.
The only thing I noticed is that the direction of the cooling vanes on my front rotors are the same for both rotors; which equates to one side in the correction direction and one side not. This is really a non-issue because the vast majority of car owners never put the brake system to its maximum failure point. I wonder if maybe i ordered two left sides instead of right/left???
Brembo Rotors are:
-09.9825.21 (FRONT GREY UV COATED)
-09.A358.11 (REAR GREY UV COATED W INTEGRATED DRUM)
Akebono:
-Akebono EUR1406 (Ceramic front pad kit)
-Akebono EUR1341A (Ceramic rear pad kit)
Complete garbage. I have built and driven race cars for years. Warped rotors is not a fallacy. The hold function is not an issue except after hard braking. The metal in the brakes change in grain during the heating process. When the brakes go on hold after such hard raking under huge heat can create a hot pocket on the rotor. Under pressure it can warp a rotor under high heat when the car is at a stop.
If you want to believe it is warping rather than uneven pad transfer then that is your choice. Either way the rotor gets replaced.




If you want to believe it is warping rather than uneven pad transfer then that is your choice. Either way the rotor gets replaced.
Last edited by Mazspeed; Dec 9, 2017 at 01:10 PM.




The only thing I noticed is that the direction of the cooling vanes on my front rotors are the same for both rotors; which equates to one side in the correction direction and one side not. This is really a non-issue because the vast majority of car owners never put the brake system to its maximum failure point. I wonder if maybe i ordered two left sides instead of right/left???
Brembo Rotors are:
-09.9825.21 (FRONT GREY UV COATED)
-09.A358.11 (REAR GREY UV COATED W INTEGRATED DRUM)
Akebono:
-Akebono EUR1406 (Ceramic front pad kit)
-Akebono EUR1341A (Ceramic rear pad kit)
And I want to point out I live in high elevation, so I have to make steep descents frequently. Still has good stopping power even on hard downhill stops.




Last edited by Mazspeed; Dec 10, 2017 at 05:52 AM.




Last edited by Mazspeed; Dec 10, 2017 at 01:59 PM.








The only thing I noticed is that the direction of the cooling vanes on my front rotors are the same for both rotors; which equates to one side in the correction direction and one side not. This is really a non-issue because the vast majority of car owners never put the brake system to its maximum failure point. I wonder if maybe i ordered two left sides instead of right/left???
Brembo Rotors are:
-09.9825.21 (FRONT GREY UV COATED)
-09.A358.11 (REAR GREY UV COATED W INTEGRATED DRUM)
Akebono:
-Akebono EUR1406 (Ceramic front pad kit)
-Akebono EUR1341A (Ceramic rear pad kit)
Wanted to say thanks to Johnny for the recommendation on the Brembo and Akebono pads for the GLK. It fixed the warped rotor issue and very little to no dust. Great call. It has a higher iron/carbon content for better abuse handling.




