GLK-Class (X204) Produced 2008-2014

Warped Front Rotors

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Old 06-22-2017, 07:31 PM
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do you have any pictures of your rotors?
Old 06-23-2017, 08:54 AM
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I do not. I requested the old rotors when they were replaced at 20k miles and they said they couldn't give them to me (suspicious).


I've told them that I want to escalate this. I bought a 2013 glk with 10k miles that they took back it had so many problems (which got me into the 2014) and now this one has the rotor warping issue and has had the occasional 3-4 shift clunk for as long as we've owned it that they haven't been able to fix. I'm beginning to question the quality of this car and MB in general given my experiences.
Old 07-13-2017, 12:19 AM
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Well its been a few weeks of driving with my Brembo and Akebono combo. I haven't cleaned the wheels since i installed in June. This picture is of the driver's front.

Oh and btw when i clean my wheels i remove them from the car completely.
Attached Thumbnails Warped Front Rotors-img_3904.jpg  
Old 07-13-2017, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by sleeperZ96BT
I do not. I requested the old rotors when they were replaced at 20k miles and they said they couldn't give them to me (suspicious).


I've told them that I want to escalate this. I bought a 2013 glk with 10k miles that they took back it had so many problems (which got me into the 2014) and now this one has the rotor warping issue and has had the occasional 3-4 shift clunk for as long as we've owned it that they haven't been able to fix. I'm beginning to question the quality of this car and MB in general given my experiences.
They will NEVER fix that damn 3-4 upshift clunk. That is the thing that bothers me the most about my 2015.
Old 09-23-2017, 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by sleeperZ96BT
Quick update - when the did the 'brakes' at 20k they are telling me they only did the rotors. The pads apparently were not changed and now the pads have chewed up the new rotors at 12k miles. They are also telling me that the rear brakes need to be done.


How did you folks who had this covered under warranty get this covered under warranty when the warranty is only 10k miles? I know some feel otherwise, but my wife is NOT riding these brakes hard and neither of us have ever warped rotors in our lives on any car except this one (even our 2013 GLK was fine, my 2013 E550 is fine, etc.). There is something else going on, either sh*tty MB parts or calipers dragging on the rotors creating excessive heat, etc.
Add me to the list of X204 owners who suspect MB pads may not be the best quality. I am told by dealer that both my fronts and my rears have pad material deposits on them causing vibration. First started at 17k miles on the front and now at 19K+, front and rear. Raised the issue to MBUSA and they are helping out with a subsidy.

But I am disappointed: With my Japanese cars, this stuff only happened well after 40k miles of ownership. Makes me think the MB pads are not compatible with the MB rotors even though that is how they come from the factory.

Best after market combo I have found so far: R1 Concepts drilled slotted Premier series rotors with Akebono ceramic pads. Nice gradual feel and good strong braking bite when I want it. Have them on my Lexus ( probably about 20k miles now) and boy do they feel good.

If my new set of MB pads and rotors crap out again after another 17-20 k miles, I will go after market and never buy MB pads/rotors ever.
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Old 12-04-2017, 12:47 PM
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I have a 2015 GLK250. I have the front rotors and pads replace at 40k miles and now at 70k the hand brake is sticking. Any solution or fix for this problem?
thanks
Old 12-04-2017, 01:49 PM
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Manual brake is operated by a cable to connects to the rear suspension. The rear rotor hat is a drum from drum style brakes.

Periodically, you will need to adjust the spring and inspect the shoes to keep them moving smoothly. You will need to remove the regular hydraulic brake caliper and rotor to get access to the drum brake. The cable pulley may also have corrosion or debris. Usually there will not be any issues with the actually plastic lever and foot pedal.
Old 12-04-2017, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnnyC
Manual brake is operated by a cable to connects to the rear suspension. The rear rotor hat is a drum from drum style brakes.

Periodically, you will need to adjust the spring and inspect the shoes to keep them moving smoothly. You will need to remove the regular hydraulic brake caliper and rotor to get access to the drum brake. The cable pulley may also have corrosion or debris. Usually there will not be any issues with the actually plastic lever and foot pedal.
Thank you! JohnnyC. It will be my project this weekend!
Old 12-09-2017, 04:10 AM
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Originally Posted by formerjeepguy
Yup, there is no argument.

Warped rotors on road cars is a fallacy. The real problem is uneven transfer of pad material to the rotors causing uneven friction.

Have a read:

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths

I would not be surprised to learn that the brake hold function in the glk is a contributing factor given that you have to press harder than normal on the pedal to engage the hold. Using the hold after hard braking with hot brakes is the perfect recipe for uneven pad transfer to the rotor.
Complete garbage. I have built and driven race cars for years. Warped rotors is not a fallacy. The hold function is not an issue except after hard braking. The metal in the brakes change in grain during the heating process. When the brakes go on hold after such hard raking under huge heat can create a hot pocket on the rotor. Under pressure it can warp a rotor under high heat when the car is at a stop.
Old 12-09-2017, 04:18 AM
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Originally Posted by JohnnyC
I just bought a full set of Brembo rotors and matching pads, but will be using Akebono Euro Pads in place of the Brembos. I previously used Centric rotors on my toyota before and I didn't like them because they started to show wear really quickly.

As for the best hardware, its hard to say as there are so many variables. Some things to take in consideration:

-Type of Brake Fluid used
-Using Hard or Soft Pads
-Using Metallic or Ceramic friction material pads
-Correct installation including torquing hardware correctly
-Are you using brake quiet paste/grey brake paste?
-Brake lines free of air?
-Were the pads installed without any oil contamination?
-Do rotors have slots, dimples, flat, or holes?
-proper bedding in procedure

So if you buy the most expensive rotors and pads, but don't install them correctly they will not perform great. Or using crap pads on expensive rotors the pads will eat up the rotors. A common issue is not bedding correctly or riding the brakes.

For the majority of GLK owners, a typical inexpensive smooth rotor and a ceramic pad from EBC or Akebono will do great. Its not necessary to spend a ton of money on wear items.
How do you like them and where did you get them.
Old 12-09-2017, 05:28 AM
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5 months still working great. Amazon was the source of my parts. The Akebono pads were made in USA whereas my Brembo Rotors were made in Poland and China. Another forum member asked my about part numbers so I'll put em in here as well.

The only thing I noticed is that the direction of the cooling vanes on my front rotors are the same for both rotors; which equates to one side in the correction direction and one side not. This is really a non-issue because the vast majority of car owners never put the brake system to its maximum failure point. I wonder if maybe i ordered two left sides instead of right/left???

Brembo Rotors are:
-09.9825.21 (FRONT GREY UV COATED)
-09.A358.11 (REAR GREY UV COATED W INTEGRATED DRUM)

Akebono:
-Akebono EUR1406 (Ceramic front pad kit)
-Akebono EUR1341A (Ceramic rear pad kit)
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Old 12-09-2017, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Mazspeed


Complete garbage. I have built and driven race cars for years. Warped rotors is not a fallacy. The hold function is not an issue except after hard braking. The metal in the brakes change in grain during the heating process. When the brakes go on hold after such hard raking under huge heat can create a hot pocket on the rotor. Under pressure it can warp a rotor under high heat when the car is at a stop.
Yes warped rotors are a real problem on race cars where the brakes see extreme usage and temperatures, But these are not race cars and our brakes do not see the extreme temperatures needed to cause warping. I challenge you to put a runout indicator on pulsing GLK rotors to prove they are warped.

If you want to believe it is warping rather than uneven pad transfer then that is your choice. Either way the rotor gets replaced.
Old 12-09-2017, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by formerjeepguy
Yes warped rotors are a real problem on race cars where the brakes see extreme usage and temperatures, But these are not race cars and our brakes do not see the extreme temperatures needed to cause warping. I challenge you to put a runout indicator on pulsing GLK rotors to prove they are warped.

If you want to believe it is warping rather than uneven pad transfer then that is your choice. Either way the rotor gets replaced.
Warped rotors are a real problem on some cars. You don't have to have a race car to cause high temps if you drive fast and or aggressively or even have a stuck brake caliper. We did use a dial indicator and had a 4/1000's runout with one of my front rotors and 2 /1000's with the other. Yep overheated. I knew when it happened and where. Simple turning of the rotors fixed it. If you go onto youtube and key this in "warped brake rotors" you will find real professionals tell you how it happens, how to fix them and so on. Your statement is 100 percent false.

Last edited by Mazspeed; 12-09-2017 at 01:10 PM.
Old 12-09-2017, 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnnyC
5 months still working great. Amazon was the source of my parts. The Akebono pads were made in USA whereas my Brembo Rotors were made in Poland and China. Another forum member asked my about part numbers so I'll put em in here as well.

The only thing I noticed is that the direction of the cooling vanes on my front rotors are the same for both rotors; which equates to one side in the correction direction and one side not. This is really a non-issue because the vast majority of car owners never put the brake system to its maximum failure point. I wonder if maybe i ordered two left sides instead of right/left???

Brembo Rotors are:
-09.9825.21 (FRONT GREY UV COATED)
-09.A358.11 (REAR GREY UV COATED W INTEGRATED DRUM)

Akebono:
-Akebono EUR1406 (Ceramic front pad kit)
-Akebono EUR1341A (Ceramic rear pad kit)
Ok cool. I will check in with this. Lots of owners of the GLK's are seeing warped rotors because they are a bit too small with the taller wheel packages. Lot's of force. Thanks for the info, I will be getting a set. Did you have any issues with brake bias after with front and rear?
Old 12-09-2017, 01:49 PM
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No issues. I am still using my original fluid too.

And I want to point out I live in high elevation, so I have to make steep descents frequently. Still has good stopping power even on hard downhill stops.
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Old 12-09-2017, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Mazspeed
Warped rotors are a real problem on some cars. You don't have to have a race car to cause high temps if you drive fast and or aggressively or even have a stuck brake caliper. We did use a dial indicator and had a 4/1000's runout with one of my front rotors and 2 /1000's with the other. Yep overheated. I knew when it happened and where. Simple turning of the rotors fixed it. If you go onto youtube and key this in "warped brake rotors" you will find real professionals tell you how it happens, how to fix them and so on. Your statement is 100 percent false.
I never said warped rotors is not real. It is just not the common cause of pulsing brakes on ROAD cars. Sheesh.
Old 12-09-2017, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by formerjeepguy
I never said warped rotors is not real. It is just not the common cause of pulsing brakes on ROAD cars. Sheesh.
How would you know? You physically checked all these cars brakes? That statement alone is just ridiculous.

Last edited by Mazspeed; 12-10-2017 at 05:52 AM.
Old 12-10-2017, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Mazspeed
How would you know? You physically checked all these cars brakes? That statement alone is just ridiculous.
Have you? Did you even read the article? Have you done any research beyond your own anecdotal evidence? Are you an expert in the field because you once sat in a race car? Are you arguing to win silly internet points?
Old 12-10-2017, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by formerjeepguy
Have you? Did you even read the article? Have you done any research beyond your own anecdotal evidence? Are you an expert in the field because you once sat in a race car? Are you arguing to win silly internet points?
I have worked for Goodyear and Firestone and Bruces tires when I was younger and changed out hundreds of rotors and put them on brake lathe machines and "turned" the rotor and fix warped and damaged rotors. When I raced for JRE Johnson Racing Engines we did a ton of racing and street brake replacements and for our own comp cars and customer cars. I know brakes. This has nothing to do with "internet points" or whatever you think it is. I have a ton of experience in the field. It's clear you do not. When googling "warped brakes" you get a ton of pros who have videos on what to do when you warp your rotors. Yes not all vibrations are due to it, but a lot of them are. In my personal experience it's the number 2 cause of instability during braking. Number 1 being poor alignment. This is just a fact, it has nothing to do with winning arguments or internet points (whatever that means) I have seen it, it's all over the internet with experts saying so. It may not be the only cause, which is why you see some of these other videos with different issues as to why someone is having this problem, but that's all they are. None of them say that it's not due to having warped rotors, but they give you another scenario as to why you may have this shake under braking. None of them discount warped rotors. It's just not the ONLY cause. The fact is, is that you're flat out wrong and you are having a problem with it.

Last edited by Mazspeed; 12-10-2017 at 01:59 PM.
Old 12-11-2017, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Mazspeed
I have worked for Goodyear and Firestone and Bruces tires when I was younger and changed out hundreds of rotors and put them on brake lathe machines and "turned" the rotor and fix warped and damaged rotors. When I raced for JRE Johnson Racing Engines we did a ton of racing and street brake replacements and for our own comp cars and customer cars. I know brakes. This has nothing to do with "internet points" or whatever you think it is. I have a ton of experience in the field. It's clear you do not. When googling "warped brakes" you get a ton of pros who have videos on what to do when you warp your rotors. Yes not all vibrations are due to it, but a lot of them are. In my personal experience it's the number 2 cause of instability during braking. Number 1 being poor alignment. This is just a fact, it has nothing to do with winning arguments or internet points (whatever that means) I have seen it, it's all over the internet with experts saying so. It may not be the only cause, which is why you see some of these other videos with different issues as to why someone is having this problem, but that's all they are. None of them say that it's not due to having warped rotors, but they give you another scenario as to why you may have this shake under braking. None of them discount warped rotors. It's just not the ONLY cause. The fact is, is that you're flat out wrong and you are having a problem with it.
I disagree.
Old 12-11-2017, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by formerjeepguy
I disagree.
Very vague without any info given and have no idea what you're disagreeing with since I passed on a lot of info. But it is certainly your right to say the incorrect and wrong info to forum members as you see fit.
Old 04-05-2018, 04:03 AM
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Originally Posted by JohnnyC
5 months still working great. Amazon was the source of my parts. The Akebono pads were made in USA whereas my Brembo Rotors were made in Poland and China. Another forum member asked my about part numbers so I'll put em in here as well.

The only thing I noticed is that the direction of the cooling vanes on my front rotors are the same for both rotors; which equates to one side in the correction direction and one side not. This is really a non-issue because the vast majority of car owners never put the brake system to its maximum failure point. I wonder if maybe i ordered two left sides instead of right/left???

Brembo Rotors are:
-09.9825.21 (FRONT GREY UV COATED)
-09.A358.11 (REAR GREY UV COATED W INTEGRATED DRUM)

Akebono:
-Akebono EUR1406 (Ceramic front pad kit)
-Akebono EUR1341A (Ceramic rear pad kit)

Wanted to say thanks to Johnny for the recommendation on the Brembo and Akebono pads for the GLK. It fixed the warped rotor issue and very little to no dust. Great call. It has a higher iron/carbon content for better abuse handling.
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Old 04-05-2018, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Mazspeed



Wanted to say thanks to Johnny for the recommendation on the Brembo and Akebono pads for the GLK. It fixed the warped rotor issue and very little to no dust. Great call. It has a higher iron/carbon content for better abuse handling.
Just curious about the cost of the set. I Bought a CPO with 36k and from service history it looks like previous owner did all 4 rotors and pads at 24k and i can already feel the pulsing and see the badly scored rotors. Did you do the instal?
Old 04-06-2018, 12:10 AM
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I did the install. The rotors and pads came to about 600 or so which is a great deal. Amazon had both.

Old 04-06-2018, 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Mazspeed
I did the install. The rotors and pads came to about 600 or so which is a great deal. Amazon had both.

Interested to see the longevity on these. Just got this car and I feel that the braking is it's weak point thus far. Pulled up service from previous owner and it looks like a brake job (all 4 ends) was done last year. Already feeling a pulse at 30+ MPH


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