Honestly I think the braking is very good, it just could not handle the power and weight of the GLK. The Brakes should have been bigger with larger calipers from the factory. But as it is, it stops very well, just undersized and not good enough disks. If you're aggressive with it like some of us are, it's really easy to warp the front rotors, which is what some of us did. The Brembo and new pads seem to do the trick.

 

Doesn't that translate to "the factory brakes are not adequate"?

 

The power is good I should say. The disks and pads are another story.

 

So just as an update, I dig some digging around on the vane orientation and have discovered Brembo does not make it directional. You can see from the dimensional drawing that there are 34 fins that rotate along clockwise. There is not a reverse or mirror part number.

 

I bought a CPO 2015 350 and noticed when applying the brakes at speeds of 50-60 mph on the internet the pedal vibrates until the speed comes down to 40 mph or less. Does this sound like slightly warped rotors? The front had rotors and pads replaced and have about 8k miles on them. Let me know what you guys think.

 

Do you think any Indy shops would have any issues or objections installing these brakes because of the direction issue? There was nothing 'special' or difficult in installing them?
Thanks for the recommendation..

 

there would be no issues. It is a functional feature on sports cars and track cars, but on our GLK the vanes don't cool enough to offer any additional performance.

 

 

You should take it to a brake shop and get it check out. Sometimes problems can arise from improper installation, manufacturing defects, environmental damage (corrosion), etc. It is hard to pinpoint your problem without pictures or actually testing the system. The dealer is going to tooth and nail with you about brakes warranty. If they do replace them and the problem arises you will have to get new hardware anyways.

You also have not described what is messed up on the rotor disc; are there grooves?

 

Sorry about that. Yeah, There are grooves around the rotors. The dealer said today that they were able to see there is an issue with the rotors being warped and replacement would be required to remedy the issue. I am having a hard time wrapping my head around the initial response of it not being covered due to being a wear and tear item. I totally understand that element and having worked with batteries in IT the concept of consumable makes 100%, but when there is a premature failure or defect then that is a different story. Maybe I am thinking about this wrong, but it doesnt sit well that after 6 months and 6k miles the vibration is noticeable. Maybe I am too demanding and thinking I should at least get 50% wear before running into any issues. It might be that the service advisor didnt realize the situation that the brakes were recently serviced and replaced, so sitting down and looking up the history might be worth it too.

 

Sorry about that. Yeah, There are grooves around the rotors. The dealer said today that they were able to see there is an issue with the rotors being warped and replacement would be required to remedy the issue. I am having a hard time wrapping my head around the initial response of it not being covered due to being a wear and tear item. I totally understand that element and having worked with batteries in IT the concept of consumable makes 100%, but when there is a premature failure or defect then that is a different story. Maybe I am thinking about this wrong, but it doesnt sit well that after 6 months and 6k miles the vibration is noticeable. Maybe I am too demanding and thinking I should at least get 50% wear before running into any issues. It might be that the service advisor didnt realize the situation that the brakes were recently serviced and replaced, so sitting down and looking up the history might be worth it too.

I can agree that warping would be normal wear and tear, but to me the premature timing makes that a moot point.

Am I wrong?

I also dont have any pictures as the car is in the shop currently.

Day 2 updated:

Called the purchasing dealer and asked them about coverage and they will cover the rotors as long as they are not rusted together from sitting for months on end. Went and talked to the dealer I am at right now and they have backtracked now after I asked about the two years parts warranty and telling me they will try and get it covered and will need to measure the rotor thickness to try and pass through as a warranty claim. They said normally the only time rotors are covered is within a month or so if something isnt right, which is weird because on a previous car that was new they wouldnt even take a look on a brake and suspension issue since there wasnt a few thousand miles on the car for break-in period. Seems they are trying to underpromise and overdeliver since they have been called out in order to give me a good feeling when the survey comes in. I noticed on the service invoice they noted there was corrosion in order to try and avoid covering, which I dont understand why they wouldnt try and be on the customer side, since they still get paid on valid warranty claims.

 

 

Yeah sure, all 08–15 "X204", uses the same F/R brake Rotors & pads..

-;ZAYED;-

 

eki912,

Its not clear from your post... you still on the stock brakes and rotors and wheels?

 

 

Agree with you, those Rotors are quickly fade up..,,

prefer if you can go with drilled Rotors, at least, Fronts only..

-;ZAYED;-

 

do you have any indie shop recommendations to install the brembos? There is a place called g&t autos in jersey city that has great reviews i might try. Tempted to order from Amazon and have them install... so far no one has complained about the brembos + akebonos

 

Meant to post here as well. Rotors do warp.
I had first set of the original rotors last over 60k miles....grooved to crap.
Replaced with all MB genuine stuff. 20k miles later developed vibration under braking. I read a post that warped rotors is a myth and that vibrations are often caused by pad deposits. Took the car on empty highway and did some braking to heat up pads/rotors and hopefully get rid of stuff. Well...it got worse.
A wt slow speed with light brake you can tell brakes are grabbing a bit on and off
Took wheels off, checked bushing and suspension all looked good.
When I span the rotor it goes easy then hard, easy then hard. Took closer look and I could see the gap between rotor and pad appearing and disappearing as I rotated the rotor.
Went on FCP Euro, ordered are pair of Zimmerans this time for 70 buck each, put them on (about an hour job) and all good.
Zimmermans were not directional although vanes are angled, but MB rotors were the same thing, vanes imply that rotors are directional but they were identical.

 

This is probably a stupid question, If I want to replace all rotors and brake pads then I need to order 2 of each item listed. If i order one of each, the total is $300. but Mazspeed spent $600. Each photo shows a pair so its confusing to me

Thanks

 

here is the break down of my order

$83.97 front rotor
$83.97 front rotor

$55.27 rear rotor
$55.27 rear rotor

$77.95 front pad set
$65.95 rear pad set

 

DOn't forget some anti squeal lube and pad glue

 

Drilled rotors don't really help with heat. In fact on race cars vary rarely do you use a drilled rotor. Drilled rotors leads to cracked rotors. Slotted rotors are all you need along with a good alloy compound. The GLK does have issues with warped rotors and the Brembo replacements have been awesome. The recommendation by Johnny C was spot on. I have driven it a bit harder and have had zero warping issues. But also here is a trick to help not warp rotors.
When your rotors are hot after spiriting driving, when you have to make that stop when they are hot, don't pad the brake to make the car stay stopped on Mercedes brake stop system. When you keep your foot or the auto brake on at a stop light after a hard drive, it can warp the rotor. Stop the car, then put the transmission in Neutral. The reason why is when the rotor gets hot, the metal material changes and can be shaped. The rotor is not perfectly center on the caliper (for a reason) and when you stop on the brakes after some fast driving and you keep your foot or auto brake on at a stop light for more than a handful of seconds, as the rotor cools down a bit it will slightly bend due to the force of the auto stop and or foot on the brake. You can either put the car in neutral after it's 100 percent stopped and take your foot of the brake, or leave a bunch of space between the car in front of you and lightly inch the car forward during the stop as to not keep the brake pad on that same hotspot for more than a few seconds. If you lightly roll forward or put it in neutral, you won't get any warping of the rotor from the pad hot spotting the rotor in 1 place.

 

i dont think the 722.9 transmission are designed to use like that. Cant remember where i read it, they don't recommend put in N during the drive. I use stoptech rotors, and they seems hold up pretty good. I still running my original rear break, and changed the front breaks(pads and rotors) at 80k km. My glk now is at 130k km, i think the rear break can probably last till 160k km before the break service light kicks in.

 

So you're telling me that the transmission is not designed to go into neutral? LOL

 

I don't think so bro..!,

why Brembo provides drilled Rotors on almost all performance AMG models comes with drilled Rotors..?!?,,

drilled holes give the water & hot air a place to escape, that will increasing the time it takes to stop in wet conditions,

and these holes ensure greater grip with more responsive and efficient performance of the braking system,,

also, build-up of ferrous material, which is deposited on brake pad's friction material, these holes will freeing it form materials that can dampen the brake response..

http://www.brembo.com/en/company/new...for-purchasing

-;ZAYED;-