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All standard halogen GLK's can easily be "upgraded" to use HID bulbs. I have done this to my 2010, 2011 and now 2016 GLK's. You want to source a decent quality HID kid, with 5-6000K temperature (Crystal white) so you don't look "rice" and have the right light temperature for best illumination.
You also want a 55W system.
The key thing is that your headlight housing HAS to have a focusing lens assembly. If it only has a reflector (the mirror on the back of the housing) then you WILL blind onoming traffic like all those other IDIOTS who just add HID bulbs to their 20 year old trucks that you hate to see around at night.
The focusing lens, will cast a more intense light within the standard pattern that was approved for the vehicle. Typically halogen bulbs emit appx 1500-2000 lumens (amount of light) in the 55-65W range (power consumed to "generate" the light).
You can find HID bulbd that will emit 3000 lumens quite easily.
A typical high quality HID kit will run you about ~95-100 on aliexpress/amazon/eBay and you need to find ones that are CAN-Bus compatible so your car doesn't throw all the bulb errors.
To fit them is a bit of a pain, but there are many instructions on this forum and now take me 10-15 mins per ide, including swearing at the H7 bulb clip design with all swear words known to man - and a few scratches to boot.
You will need to cut a small hole on the back of the access lid to run wires through, but it is EASY!
So, if you have a focusing lens - All good. If you have a reflector headlight (like the new GLK 2014 and up, then don't add HID, you will be illegal and put oncoming traffic at risk.
A 2013 I don't think has focusing lens, I put on 35w Phillips 4300k and simply aimed the lens full down, it doesn't blind oncoming traffic. 4300k is what the factory provides, 55w? With 35w they are probably 3 times as bright as halogen. I've had Phillips Hid for over a year, they are great, re aiming the lens completely down I don't loose any effectiveness, even on unlit highways.
This is interesting, I'm considering an upgrade for our 2011 GLK. I'm curious, have you considered an LED conversion instead of Xenon? I'm seeing more and more LED conversion bulbs, I wonder if that's a better way to go.
Hid should have double the life of Halogen. Led in the proper invironment last even longer, 2x, but they have a big drawback of heat intolerance. Led for cars have a motor and fan to cool them. My feeling is if they are factory design and installed they have a chance of lasting. But the engine compartment is not a normal temp environment, it's like an oven with temps that get hot, easily 350f in summer when you shut off the motor. Hid are not affected by heat. I'm thinking of Led for the high beam only, and because it's a dual light design, so far I've seen only off HID brands for the high beam. My thought is for low beams that are always on, vs high beams, Leds have not built a track record. Years ago I bought Piaa and Silverstar replacement bulbs, and every year one of my lights would fail. You need reliable headlights, lights that last the life of the car, not something that might burn out every year or two. Headlights are to important to me to use products that are unproven. Phillips, Osram, Sylvania, are name brand equipment that should give long life and accurate output ratings. I used a kit from Philipsxenon.com. It's not Phillips but a reseller that uses Phillips products. There is a law against selling Hid kits because of the brightness. I don't know the full law but somehow they are being sold. I'd say go for it but aim them full down. Led low beams, I just don't think they can last In a hot engine compartment.
The dim factory bulbs were aimed horizontally, actually blinding people and giving me no light to see chicagos pot holes. The bright photo is Phillips 4300k 35watt Hid aimed fully down. They don't blind oncoming traffic and have maybe 3x the actual light. The photos are just low beams photographed to actually represent brightness. I am a photographer, I was careful to represent what I actually see.
Looks very impressive indeed! Can you tell me which specific kit you used for the conversion? Also, you said it takes about 15 minutes per side, that's how long it takes me just to get the idiotic bulb out of these headlights (doing it mostly by Braille since I can't see anything in there ). What about the wiring for the conversion, does it just plug into the existing harness?
I sort of agree with you about LED being the new kid on the block and thus probably less reliable than HID (in the aftermarket world). They probably need a few more years to get reliable, although when I see Morimoto making LED conversion bulbs, I think that we're almost there. I'm still intrigued by LED, but I agree, I don't know how long a fan motor spinning at 12,000 RPM can realistically be expected to last, magnetic suspension or not.
If you could tell me the conversion kit you used, that would be great!
Did I say install is 15 min a side? I didn't install it my installer took about an hour for everything, my cost was 70$. I don't know the exact kit - ballast used, I just picked what the site recommended. I did opt for 4300k 35w, which I was recommended to use. I can state as fact that high K - Kelvin lights that are more blue, scatter light and blind traffic. They sell maybe a 6500 k, I didn't want to risk light scatter since I knew blinding was going to be an issue anyway. Luckily aiming the unit full down fixed that. A few pros told me it was a mistake with the 2013 headlights, but obviously they didn't bother aiming the unit down. There is a mirror-shield I front of the bulb, it took him a bit of work to be sure it was properly positioned. He had experience and tools, I think it would have taken me possibly, all day. Mainly trying to figure it all out.
Thanks again! Yeah, your first post said 10-15 min per side, but maybe I misunderstood. Having done HID conversions before, it sounded a little sporty .
No that was another guy ( mbussado) He says you Can Not use Hid in 2013 reflector type systems. He says to use use 5-6000k, 55w, 100$ China made systems.
I responded to him that aiming the light unit fully down make the light non blinding. Therefore legal.
Also he recommends 5-6000 Kelvin. Well , above 4200k is actually illegal in the US, unless factory installed HID. 5-6000 K blinds people as these are actually designed for off-road or emergency vehicles so they Stand Out to oncoming traffic. Yes 5-6000 Kelvin blind due to the scattering of the blue spectrum of light. He is recommending 55watt systems. 35 watt Philips systems put out at least 70% more than halogen. ( possibly much more) so why go to a 55 watt system. Light output might be extreme, and the heat generated by a light that's that extreme might melt things.
I've had the 35w - 4300K, Phillips in a year and a half, never once have I been flashed, standing In front of the vehicle the lights don't blind since they are aimed fully down. But I can drive at 65 on unlit curved country roads and not need bright lights!
Indeed, my bad for confusing the two posters . I was curious about the supposedly quick and easy retrofit he did on the 2011, since that is what I have, and if it can be done quickly and easily, that would be intriguing. I am not familiar with the auto-focusing concept, so I wanted to know more about that.
Ok you have the circular reflector, those are supposed to be non blinding since they are Focused Projector design , focused, there is no auto focus. Just test the aiming when your done, outside in a parking lot, not on a wall. With the improvement of light output aiming down would be a good starting point. My factory aiming was actually horizontal and worthless. ( as shown in my photo) . In reading the Maintenance manual, mb techs are supposed to adjust your lights at certain mileage intervals. Maybe mine were screwed up by someone.
Just want to chime in.... LEDs are not recommended for forward projecting lights in housing not designed specifically to capture LED surface mounted light spread. What you often end up with is reduced throw distance, uneven lighting, and dark spots. HIDs are a closer comparison to halogens and can better utilize the existing structure. Although focal point is slightly off, you won't run into the same issues you will with LEDs. LEDs are more suitable for short throw distance type lighting (interior, puddle, plate), or indication type lighting (signals, parking, reverse).
If looking for Morimoto HID kits, let us know. We're authorized dealers here on MBWorld.
Just want to chime in.... LEDs are not recommended for forward projecting lights in housing not designed specifically to capture LED surface mounted light spread. What you often end up with is reduced throw distance, uneven lighting, and dark spots. HIDs are a closer comparison to halogens and can better utilize the existing structure. Although focal point is slightly off, you won't run into the same issues you will with LEDs. LEDs are more suitable for short throw distance type lighting (interior, puddle, plate), or indication type lighting (signals, parking, reverse).
If looking for Morimoto HID kits, let us know. We're authorized dealers here on MBWorld.
What about the high beam , it's a dual filament , would LED work? I rarely use high beams but don't want the expense of an Hid kit, and all the bulbs I saw were not a brand I know.
Depends on how you use your high beams... If you live in the city and really just use your high beams to flash people in front of you, LEDs will be fine. If you live in rural area where you run your high beams on to actually view the road, HIDs are still preferred.
Depends on how you use your high beams... If you live in the city and really just use your high beams to flash people in front of you, LEDs will be fine. If you live in rural area where you run your high beams on to actually view the road, HIDs are still preferred.
So even the Morimoto 2Stroke bulbs are not good for these applications?
So even the Morimoto 2Stroke bulbs are not good for these applications?
We've tested them in house as Morimoto vendors (as well as many other designs), and they're ok... But not as good as HID. It's just the way LEDs are physically constructed with the LEDs surface mounted facing a single direction instead of true 360. You will always get uneven lumen at different angles which the housing reflectors and projectors were not designed to properly capture. The closest real LED solution are 3D LEDs which are true 360 spread, but unfortunately, they don't have high enough output lumen for low/high..... Yet.
Depends on how you use your high beams... If you live in the city and really just use your high beams to flash people in front of you, LEDs will be fine. If you live in rural area where you run your high beams on to actually view the road, HIDs are still preferred.
Do you sell a bright , 4300k (42-4600) LED high beam that is better than the halogen I have now? Mainly city driving but I would want better than the halogens I have.
We've tested them in house as Morimoto vendors (as well as many other designs), and they're ok... But not as good as HID. It's just the way LEDs are physically constructed with the LEDs surface mounted facing a single direction instead of true 360. You will always get uneven lumen at different angles which the housing reflectors and projectors were not designed to properly capture. The closest real LED solution are 3D LEDs which are true 360 spread, but unfortunately, they don't have high enough output lumen for low/high..... Yet.
Good thoughts, thanks. I apologize in advance for hijacking the thread (I can PM you if you prefer), but let me ask you - on my minivan I installed Morimoto mini H1 HID projector kit, which is really good for low beams. But for high beams, the little flipper thing doesn't do much - it throws more light into the trees, but not really further down the road.
So I've been messing around with some attempts to improve visibility for night driving on country roads - I installed a pair of Hella FF75 in the fog lamp locations. They are good for distance, but very directional, essentially two spot beams. I'd like to get a slightly wider pattern, maybe a cross between fog lamps and driving lights. Is there anything you'd recommend - a different bulb for the Hellas (H7 halogens currently installed), some kind of an LED bar, or?
Hey everyone. Ok, I am buying a glk350 this week and it has a ton of options but it has the standard halogen headlights.
I have a C63 that has the HID self adjusting setup, and would like those for the 350. Is there a link or a specific one I need to get? Will it self adjust or will I lose that with the upgrade?
Thanks in advance.
Hey everyone. Ok, I am buying a glk350 this week and it has a ton of options but it has the standard halogen headlights.
I have a C63 that has the HID self adjusting setup, and would like those for the 350. Is there a link or a specific one I need to get? Will it self adjust or will I lose that with the upgrade?
Thanks in advance.
Aftermarket HID kits will give you the output and nothing else, the cost to add in the sensors makes it way too costly, it is much more then just the headlights. My previous E500 and CLK500 had the xenon package and auto adjust and it is severely missed, the GLK does not have the factory lighting upgrade and the LED headlight upgrade I did works great for lighting output but that's about it.
We were in the same situation last year, our GLK has all the options we wanted except for proximity key and xenon, if you really want the xenon then keep looking, we settle and have been happy with our decision when factoring the timing and good deal we got.
Do you sell a bright , 4300k (42-4600) LED high beam that is better than the halogen I have now? Mainly city driving but I would want better than the halogens I have.
Sorry for late response. Didn't see this till now. We have 6000k CREE units we carry if interested. Currently sold out, but should be back in stock in a couple weeks.
I'm still bothered that everyone is acting like the halogen projector in the GLK is acceptable to install an aftermarket "HID Kit" and be good to go. This is still glaring. You might not get flashed because of it, but it's still throwing light that it shouldn't at oncoming traffic.
Just because you have projectors does not mean you can toss in HIDs and be good to go. Even aiming them down won't solve for X. Look at the photos above with the projectors aimed down. See how the roof and everything above the cutoff still is being lit up? That's because the halogen projector isn't designed to keep all of the HID bulb's light in the right spot, resulting in glare to other drivers.
The ONLY way to ensure you're not blinding other drivers is to do a proper headlight retrofit. I've done it on the GLK and it's totally straightforward with a set of E55R projectors. I bought mine from Retrofit Source, and I think AZN Optics might sell them too.
You don't have to do the quad setup like I did. The simple E55 retro would work out just fine. Please, please, please stop installing HIDs in a projector that wasn't designed for them. https://mbworld.org/forums/glk-class...y-59-pics.html
Technically, NONE of these options is fully legal. HIDs in a halogen projector no matter how they're aimed is not legal. LEDs in a housing designed for halogens is also illegal. Lastly, anything installed in a headlight housing by opening them up, even retrofitting OEM projectors in place of the halogen ones, isn't technically legal, but will be the only way you can actually be fully assured to improve the lighting of your ride without risking others' safety. I'm off my soapbox now.
I'm still bothered that everyone is acting like the halogen projector in the GLK is acceptable to install an aftermarket "HID Kit" and be good to go. This is still glaring. You might not get flashed because of it, but it's still throwing light that it shouldn't at oncoming traffic.
Just because you have projectors does not mean you can toss in HIDs and be good to go. Even aiming them down won't solve for X. Look at the photos above with the projectors aimed down. See how the roof and everything above the cutoff still is being lit up? That's because the halogen projector isn't designed to keep all of the HID bulb's light in the right spot, resulting in glare to other drivers.
The ONLY way to ensure you're not blinding other drivers is to do a proper headlight retrofit. I've done it on the GLK and it's totally straightforward with a set of E55R projectors. I bought mine from Retrofit Source, and I think AZN Optics might sell them too.
You don't have to do the quad setup like I did. The simple E55 retro would work out just fine. Please, please, please stop installing HIDs in a projector that wasn't designed for them. https://mbworld.org/forums/glk-class...y-59-pics.html
Technically, NONE of these options is fully legal. HIDs in a halogen projector no matter how they're aimed is not legal. LEDs in a housing designed for halogens is also illegal. Lastly, anything installed in a headlight housing by opening them up, even retrofitting OEM projectors in place of the halogen ones, isn't technically legal, but will be the only way you can actually be fully assured to improve the lighting of your ride without risking others' safety. I'm off my soapbox now.
I stated that in the photo one light was not set fully down. You can't accurately state I'm blinding oncoming traffic without seeing it. Your making a false statement. Using 6000K or higher is really where people get blinded since over 4200k is illegal and only for emergency vehicles, for the express purpose to be seen through regular traffic.
02-25-2017, 10:22 PM
). What about the wiring for the conversion, does it just plug into the existing harness?
