Multiple errors
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2017
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GLK350 4matic
Multiple errors
I have searched the forums for my answer and although some are similar, they don't have everything that is going on with mine.
2010 GLK350 4MATIC
Three errors showing up on my dash now.
1. ABS and ESC Currently Unavailable See Operators Manual;
2. Tire Pressure Inoperable; and
3. Cruise Control Inoperable.
Before the winter I changed the brakes and sensors but there was no issues until recently.
The first error was the only one for approximately the last 2 weeks. Then today the other two showed up.
Before the other two errors came up, I was looking to figure out what could cause the first error. Not easy to find answers to it. I decided to check the fuses. They all seemed fine. I removed one that dealt with the ABS anyway and replaced it. The error disappeared for a few days then it came back. Originally that error read "ABS and ESC Inoperable" but when I replaced the fuse it changed to "unavailable".
Any thoughts on these errors showing up together?
2010 GLK350 4MATIC
Three errors showing up on my dash now.
1. ABS and ESC Currently Unavailable See Operators Manual;
2. Tire Pressure Inoperable; and
3. Cruise Control Inoperable.
Before the winter I changed the brakes and sensors but there was no issues until recently.
The first error was the only one for approximately the last 2 weeks. Then today the other two showed up.
Before the other two errors came up, I was looking to figure out what could cause the first error. Not easy to find answers to it. I decided to check the fuses. They all seemed fine. I removed one that dealt with the ABS anyway and replaced it. The error disappeared for a few days then it came back. Originally that error read "ABS and ESC Inoperable" but when I replaced the fuse it changed to "unavailable".
Any thoughts on these errors showing up together?
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 4
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GLK350 4matic
The battery is probably 3 years old. It shouldn't be done already. I will check my paperwork and see if there's a warranty left. I will also check the voltage on the battery to see if it's where it is supposed to be.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,308
Likes: 62
From: Bethesda, MD
2000 SL500
voltage should be 12.6v or better at rest, no less than 11.5v when cranking, and at least 14v when at idle. It's best to use an analog voltmeter so you can actually see the needle fluctuate in real-time
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 271
Likes: 24
2014 GLK250
Well, my battery was just over 3 years old when the fuel gelled this winter during a very cold night, and it didn't have enough juice left to get the fuel pump to start the car.
After changing it, I still had a ton of issues, namely a clock that wouldn't be adjustable anymore in Comand, the other clock between the gauges would stay at whatever time the car was started, and finally my wholse gauge cluster went dark (no rpm, no speed, nothing).
Turned out that all that was needed was to unhook the battery and connect the + and - cables of the car for like 15 mins to empty all the condensers and that fixed everything.
After changing it, I still had a ton of issues, namely a clock that wouldn't be adjustable anymore in Comand, the other clock between the gauges would stay at whatever time the car was started, and finally my wholse gauge cluster went dark (no rpm, no speed, nothing).
Turned out that all that was needed was to unhook the battery and connect the + and - cables of the car for like 15 mins to empty all the condensers and that fixed everything.
Member
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 113
Likes: 25
From: Washington State
2013 GLK 350 4Matic
Well, my battery was just over 3 years old when the fuel gelled this winter during a very cold night, and it didn't have enough juice left to get the fuel pump to start the car.
After changing it, I still had a ton of issues, namely a clock that wouldn't be adjustable anymore in Comand, the other clock between the gauges would stay at whatever time the car was started, and finally my wholse gauge cluster went dark (no rpm, no speed, nothing).
Turned out that all that was needed was to unhook the battery and connect the + and - cables of the car for like 15 mins to empty all the condensers and that fixed everything.
After changing it, I still had a ton of issues, namely a clock that wouldn't be adjustable anymore in Comand, the other clock between the gauges would stay at whatever time the car was started, and finally my wholse gauge cluster went dark (no rpm, no speed, nothing).
Turned out that all that was needed was to unhook the battery and connect the + and - cables of the car for like 15 mins to empty all the condensers and that fixed everything.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 271
Likes: 24
2014 GLK250
I wouldn't do this on a GLK350 newer than 2012. If your car has ECO, it will have two batteries. The rear battery runs the ECO function and some other lighting and controls. If you short the cables on the main battery together and have a bad battery relay, you could cause the second battery to short and really blow stuff up.
I described my issues to shop #2 and the very first question was "did they short the battery cables to empty the condensers"?
We're talking about a shop that actually subcontracts jobs that are too tough/too long for local german dealers (like taking apart M5 SMG gearboxes like it's nothing). Supremely competent and highly rated.
I called shop #1 to tell them what the "fix" was and their reply was "aw man, should've known... this is THE fix to try on Audis and BMWs, we just didn't think of doing it on your car..."
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2017
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GLK350 4matic
Battery checks out and is fine.
I'm wondering if the cruise control is tied in to the ABS. Since the ABS doesn't want to work, it shuts off the cruise as a precaution.
The option of connecting the + and - is something I could try. I do not believe my vehicle has ECO. It is a 2010 GLK350. What is ECO and how do I know if I have that?
Also, what are the condensers? Can someone explain how this fixes this problem?
If I have no ECO then I will try this.
I'm wondering if the cruise control is tied in to the ABS. Since the ABS doesn't want to work, it shuts off the cruise as a precaution.
The option of connecting the + and - is something I could try. I do not believe my vehicle has ECO. It is a 2010 GLK350. What is ECO and how do I know if I have that?
Also, what are the condensers? Can someone explain how this fixes this problem?
If I have no ECO then I will try this.
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Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
GLK350 4matic
Also learned the cruise control does get disable when the traction control is turned off. And since the traction control is not available due to ABS and ESC having errors, I have no cruise control. That answers that for me.
Have not tried the battery terminals yet. I'm hesitant to try this. I don't know what the condensers are and what their roll is with the ABS system.
I may go purchase a code reader and see what it gives me.
Have not tried the battery terminals yet. I'm hesitant to try this. I don't know what the condensers are and what their roll is with the ABS system.
I may go purchase a code reader and see what it gives me.
