So my factory rotors became warped and the steering wheel was shaking heavily when braking. You could also feel your head jerking back and forth as you’re slowing down. I replaced it with Centric High carbon rotors and centric ceramic pads. I’ve driven about 30,000 kms in these and the rotors are beginning to warp again ever so slightly. How can this be possible? I don’t track the car or brake heavily. I feather the brakes so my head doesnt jerk! The pads aren’t rubbing the rotors either and the slide pins are lubed and working perfectly. Is this car too heavy or something? Are the rotors to small? I need a good pair or front rotors. I’m willing to get C63 front brakes if that fixes the problem. I know the OEM rotors were known for warping problems, but I thought aftermarket would have solved it.
JohnnyC
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When was the last time you did a brake fluid change? Are your pads wearing out at the same rate?
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the fluid was changed a year ago shortly after the new rotors and pads were installed. The pad wear is both even. An alignment was also done last week.Originally Posted by JohnnyC
When was the last time you did a brake fluid change? Are your pads wearing out at the same rate?
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Could it be corrosion developing between the rotor and the hub? I seem to recall a thread about dealers "burnishing" the surfaces because of pulsing. There is only one bolt holding the rotor to the hub so if rust were to develop between the mating surfaces at 180 degrees from the bolt could the rust expansion push the rotor out enough to cause pulsing?
And in one of the videos I watched of a brake changes the guy cleaned the surfaces and applied a thin coating of a mixture of anti-seize compound and synthetic oil. It was a thin coat so it wouldn't work its way to the braking surfaces. It seems to me that the stuff would both allow for easy future disassembly as well as prevent water from getting in and causing corrosion.
It's just an idea....
And in one of the videos I watched of a brake changes the guy cleaned the surfaces and applied a thin coating of a mixture of anti-seize compound and synthetic oil. It was a thin coat so it wouldn't work its way to the braking surfaces. It seems to me that the stuff would both allow for easy future disassembly as well as prevent water from getting in and causing corrosion.
It's just an idea....
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I put over 80,000 miles on that same combination and had no vibration when I turned the car in with over 115,000 miles. The stopping power was not as good as the originals but no warp and no dust. I would look for a caliper that is slightly sticking or something in the equalizing valves that puts too much of the braking on the front wheels. Since you talk Km's, I figure you are in Canada. I wonder if the cold could have an effect on the caliper pistons during the winter months causing an inner or outer to not deploy at quickly. Or the lube on the guide pins.
I will give a try with stoptech rotors. i had it on my w204 and now x204, both no issues. great product, but little pricey
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-That rotor screw would not affect anything even in the most extreme scenario. You could even operate the vehicle without that rotor screw. It purpose is to keep the rotor holes lined up to allow easier wheel bolt insertion and keep the rotor on the hub if you were to remove the caliper assembly.
-Could also be a bad wheel bearing. If the bearing is bad everything connected to it will wobble and vibrate: the hub and rotor disc.
-honestly there are too many variables (brake lines, piston seals, caliper hardware, etc) and not enough information to go on. Try a brake specific mechanic
-You should post pictures and have your mechanic measure out the rotors next time.
-Could also be a bad wheel bearing. If the bearing is bad everything connected to it will wobble and vibrate: the hub and rotor disc.
-honestly there are too many variables (brake lines, piston seals, caliper hardware, etc) and not enough information to go on. Try a brake specific mechanic
-You should post pictures and have your mechanic measure out the rotors next time.
