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I can't say for certain but I would think it needs a good seal. There may be a gasket there. The inter-cooler hose can be difficult to see the split. It's easiest enough to remove and inspect. Do you hear a whooshing noise under acceleration? Mine was very noisy under throttle.
I can't say for certain but I would think it needs a good seal. There may be a gasket there. The inter-cooler hose can be difficult to see the split. It's easiest enough to remove and inspect. Do you hear a whooshing noise under acceleration? Mine was very noisy under throttle.
Ok. Will remove it and go with that route first then. I tried to run my fingers through the whole connection and couldn't feel any defect, let me try to take it off and check. Is it just the driver side? Would the passenger side be problematic too?
My bad ....I did it wrong , I should have just looked closer. I believe I found the split. Attaching two pictures , second one sees the split, the first picture I just want to use the bigger one to show the pipe ( the one that is lower kind of very hidden from the top view.
)
Is it really part 204-528-25-82? That can't be, this is for a 1.8 turbo C-class...
And on a scale of 1-10, how tough is it? Is it as simple as pulling out the undertray and replacing the hose by undoing the two clamps??? I'm mechanically inclined, BTW.
Refer to the other thread for the part number for sure. It is extremely easy to repair. I didn't even jack the car up as I recall. Just slid under there, removed the cover and then the hose clamps. Presto!
Same problem with the Intercooler hose on 2014 GLK 250
Lost the power some time ago, figured it would be the Mexican Diesel fuel, got the error code P0101 and was looking at the MAP sensor, when I found this great thread here on MB World.
The passenger side hose was damaged by the front axle sub frame. I did a quick hose repair until I get a new one shipped to me. Full power again.....I am happy.
One picture from the culprit and the other the part# on the hose.
Thank you guys,
2015 GLK250 Driver side air charge hose to intercooler
2015 GLK250, 140,300km = 87,200 miles
I try to keep my vehicles for a long time. My prior vehicle was a 2003 Subaru Baja with over 800,000km, and the one before that was a Ford F150 with over 900,000km. I am a stickler for maintenance and preventative maintenance. After the Baja went, I purchased this GLK from the local dealership in Dec. 2017 with 35,000km. I wanted a diesel and wanted a vehicle with a hitch for my 4x8 utility trailer. So far, in 3 years, this vehicle is ME! I love the styling, the flexibility, the hauling ability, and the gas mileage is amazing. Other than the usual maintenance items, new summer tires at 110,000km, and this current hose problem, I have had no issues with this vehicle. If a Subaru Baja can last 800,000km, and a ****ty V6 F150 with 5 speed manual can last 900,000km, it is my wishful hope this GLK will last 1 million km. But before I day dream and wish to long, onto the intercooler hose challenge:
Just a quick thanks to Ken for initially starting this discussion, along with the feedback from others along the way. I learned and am grateful for your sharing.
Well, on Monday Dec. 7th, I pulled the same codes with my simple OBDII reader. No loss of power or anything else. Other than the CEL I would not have known anything was off. I had thought it was the MAF, same as what Ken had started out with. I was actually searching this forum to assess how best to clean the MAF. Lo and behold I read Ken's comments, and I became convinced it was either the driver (left) hose or less likely the passenger (right) hose. I figured, at minimum, I would have one or two new hoses which would equal the cost of a less likely new MAF, and after reading the many posts dealing with these two hoses, I would be better off to replace them even if later I found out I needed a new MAF. So that was my backwards logic of just doing it.
I am a hands on guy with lots of backyard automotive experience, but with the cold weather I was in no mood to change it myself in the driveway. I called Benz parts and the part was $127 (Canadian). I tried to locate the tear from the top engine area but could not see anything. I called the Benz service department. Talk about an exponential rip off....they wanted $800+ including their own diagnostic, and that if the MAF it would be another $400+, and if the passenger side hose additional. I advised them I do not need their diagnostic, only to change the part, and I will reset the CEL and I take responsibility if something else. They insisted "NOPE" - they must do their own diagnostic. I am taking it that this Benz shop is godly as they know what is best for me.
Next, I called a local shop two days ago, which would have been Tuesday. They ordered the part, received it the same day, I scheduled the appointment for Thursday (today). In the interim, even though I was not experiencing any issues or loss of power, I left the GLK in the driveway to try not to take chances until the repairs were completed, and with permission, used the partner's newer S Class.
I dropped the vehicle to the shop this morning, they called me at 11am to say ready (also had the oil change done and a summer tire repaired). My invoice for the hose, and R&R of the hose was $165 plus tax. They did not charge me for patching the summer tire from inside and rebalancing. Once in a while you get a pleasant surprise, and these guys at this shop made the whole of December for me. I wish I could give their name but I do not have permission and the intent of this writing was to confirm the maintenance required not to give a shout out to an excellent service provider.
In my review of the old hose, per the attached picture, the rip is about 1.5" long. I do not see anywhere where it has been brushing against a body part. What I did notice is that the blowout was from inside out, and the inside in that area is very mushy. So it is an internal failure. The rest of the hose was firm when squeezed. Overall, it appears to me that the minor oil residue, as oil and rubber compounds are enemies, combined with the changes in heat and pressure, are the culprits to this failure. I believe that if you start to use aftermarket engineering, ie metal alloy extensions of the tubes, you would not be letting the hose flex adequately between the engine and rigidly fixed intercooler, causing other stresses. I believe the oily residue inside the hose is normal as in 15,000km between oil changes (9,300 miles), I consistently only add 1/2 liter of oil during the 15,000km to maintain at the full mark.
I am one of those preventative measures type of guys. Next spring when the weather is warmer, I will do the passenger side hose myself. At 275,000km, if the vehicle is still around, I will buy both side hoses and make sure I change them myself as part of the preventative maintenance measures.
per my post of last week....everything was good until sunday. than on sunday driving back from the cottage, i got the cel again. when i got home i hooked up the scanner and it said p0101. i thought maybe the passenger side hose was also gone. on monday i picked up the red passenger side hose. today, in the cold, I pulled the two lower engine covers and replaced the red passenger side hose. it took about 45 minutes and the hardest part was getting the hose to disconnect from the upper housing. i found that taking off the air snorkel at the hop allowed me to get my hands in to wiggle the hose of the housing. the lower one by the rad support area was a breeze. 1/2 hour of the time was basically setting up the car ramps and taking the two covers off and reinstalling them.
the old hose was perfectly normal. no marks, no touching any other part. the new one had cost about $450. unlike last time, this time there is just the p0101 code. i have cleared it twice but it comes back on while driving. any thoughts....maybe i am not clearing properly (though last time it did clear for a couple of days the two codes, and this time only the p0101 code). should i try to clean the maf sensor? and if so, what should i use that people have had success with?
In the end it turned out to be the EGR Valve. Expensive part. Coincidental that the EGR and driver side hose went at same time! Light reset and all is normal now.
That sure looks like a component-life issue with those two cracks. If a crack opens like that, you certainly would lose power or the vehicle goes into limp mode.
When it happened to my car, I was still able to drive sluggishly 60 Mph back home.
I have fixed the problem but wanted to let others know in case it may help someone in the future.
2014 GLK250 Bluetec 2.1 Diesel with 52000 miles .
Symptom where lack of power and CEL indication with P0101 and P0299 read from OBD.
After clearing CEL, the car would drive with about 90% of original power and then go into limp mode
and it was hard to get more the 2000 RPM's from the engine. I could stop the car and then restart and the
car would gpo back to about 90% original power.....
Since I focused on the P0101 code, I removed the MAF sensor and noticed that it was slightly dirty so used
CRC MAF cleaner and cleaned the sensor. Re-installed cleared the codes and still had same symptom and codes.
I think I was focused to much on the P0101 code which steered me to the think it was the MAF. I have a BOSCH 1000
code reader which is limited in its abilities to read live data.
in that it basically can onlyt read and clear codes....should have bought a better Code Reader.
But what I should have done was to step back and really think about BOTH codes.
Well after really thinking it over and what the P0101 and P0299 codes were telling me, I started looking at the Turbo charger
air hoses and finally found a crack/split in the inter cooler Charge Air outlet hose (Left side of car)
Was hard to see it at first since it is down low in the engine compartment but after gently pinching the hose, it was obvious that
the charge air from turbo/Intercooler was bleeding off pressure and was causing the MAF sensor to throw a code as well.
Going to install the Inter cooler Charge Air hose tonight and I am 110% sure this will resolve issue.
Just thought I would let others know...... start with the basics when trouble shooting CEL codes.......
$120 Charge Hose versus a $330 MAF sensor is easier to swallow. Just goes to show you that when reading codes on a newer
vehicle, try not to over think things and look for obvious signs as well.
over think things and
Got same codes and others, attempted to clean MAF and no noticeable improvements. Read this post and inspected the intercooler hoses. The hose on driver side (left) had cracks which were not obvious until I removed it to inspect it. $160 oem part from local dealership, and a very simple repair. Cleared codes with my scanner tool and running normal again.
I appreciate the insight from this post as I would have likely changed the Mass Airflow Sensor for no reason and still had the codes and poor performance.
My wife was heading down to Orlando from Panama City last week. When she got to Tallahassee, she commented that she didn't have much power and when she got on I-75, the car wouldn't go over 80-85 mph (slow lane traffic..) Anyway, she said there was no check engine light on (actually it was, her sunglasses was covering it). Got to Orlando, she remembered I had purchased a scan tool and was in glovebox, she plugged it in and got the MAF code and Turbo underboost code. Drove it back on Saturday. By then I had already used this great forum and had an idea that it was most likely a split in the charge hose (ordered from Nashville MB for $88) When she got home I verified that it was a split in the hose, about an inch and a half long, on top of the hose. While I am waiting on the new hose to arrive, I cleaned the hose with carb cleaner, mixed up a dab of 2-part epoxy($5 @ O'Reilly Auto Parts), spread it on liberally and let it set up overnight and reset the code. Woke up this morning, she had driven it to the gym and back before work, no codes, plenty of power, so I double check my 2-part epoxy repair and everything is holding great! I will replace the hose when it comes in, but, for all GLK 250 owners, be aware that this is a very easy temp fix for this seemingly all too common problem. Her car has only 57k miles, btw. So, WATCH OUT for scammer dealers or even independents that tell you that you need $3000 worth of turbos without even opening the hood. These cars are tough (well, except for the charge hose, apparently) and the turbos should last quite a long time.
Cheers, Al
GLK 250 2015
I had the same crack in the same spot, changed the hose but not succeeeded to erase the code P0101. Any thoughts? What OBD reader did you use? Thanks, Alex
I had the same codes did a search on the forums and found the charge hose usually tearing and it was - the driver side, I got a new one from the dealer - started it back up, immediately more power as I was losing power from the air lose.
the engine light still wouldn’t clear and kept pullling a P0101 mass Air, I got fed up took it to the dealer - they replaced the MAF no charge under the AEM warranty, all fixed.
hope this helps, thinking back now probably could have got the charge air hose done as well covered.
Another one with the torn drivers side hose, mine went at 87k and threw the P0299 code while driving in the mountains. I use a permanently installed Scangauge II to monitor the soot load and regen on/off and I'd been noticing the car doing more frequent regens for about a month, which may have been an early sign of trouble. You can access the ADR code with the Scanguage which is "average distance between regens." Note after the dieselgate recall work the first regen was after 400 miles, and that distance has slowly been getting shorter over time since the work. I've run a bottle of Liquimoly DPF cleaner and didn't notice a difference. But anyway, regens were down to 90-ish miles with the presumably torn hose even before the error code, so it seems like something was going on. After that mountain trip I patched up the hose with gorilla tape and tried hard to stay out of the boost, ie less than 2gph shown on the scanguage.
Thanks to this thread and others I ordered the two hoses and a really nifty tool (laser tools UK henn clip tool), and replaced the drivers side. The car is still going into limp home mode, and it's setting codes P0101, P02EC, and U029E. Never set P0101 while the hose was torn.
Not sure what's up now. Maybe the ECU trimmed for less air during the time the hose was patched up, and with the fix it is seeing more air than expected? P02EC seems like a rare code related to too much air. U029E (lost comm with Nox sensor B) doesn't seem related to the intake system at all. Going to get back under the car again and see if maybe I torn a cable while removing the under-pans.
Follow-up, tonight it also gave me a P0131 code, that's another new one, along with repeat P0101 and P02EC. Going to make a svc appt w MB Monday morning.
Last edited by FullMoonParty; 11-25-2023 at 09:39 PM.
Update to last post. None of those errors made sense after replacing the hose, so I got back under the car and wiggled the connections to make sure they were fully inserted and the clips were locked. It seemed fine, nothing loose although those connections do move around a bit by design. Then I cleared the codes and started the car and let it idle for about fifteen minutes to see if the ÉCU would relearn the mixture. No codes popped during that. So then I drove the car around town a bit, no codes, then took a highway trip for an hour, no codes yay. Drove back home an hour, no codes.
So idk whether jiggling the hose connections did the trick or idling did the trick, but it seems to be fine now!
09-01-2020, 01:59 PM
