Ken Ford

Hello,

I have fixed the problem but wanted to let others know in case it may help someone in the future.

2014 GLK250 Bluetec 2.1 Diesel with 52000 miles .
Symptom where lack of power and CEL indication with P0101 and P0299 read from OBD.
After clearing CEL, the car would drive with about 90% of original power and then go into limp mode
and it was hard to get more the 2000 RPM's from the engine. I could stop the car and then restart and the
car would gpo back to about 90% original power.....

Since I focused on the P0101 code, I removed the MAF sensor and noticed that it was slightly dirty so used
CRC MAF cleaner and cleaned the sensor. Re-installed cleared the codes and still had same symptom and codes.

I think I was focused to much on the P0101 code which steered me to the think it was the MAF. I have a BOSCH 1000
code reader which is limited in its abilities to read live data.
in that it basically can onlyt read and clear codes....should have bought a better Code Reader.

But what I should have done was to step back and really think about BOTH codes.

Well after really thinking it over and what the P0101 and P0299 codes were telling me, I started looking at the Turbo charger
air hoses and finally found a crack/split in the inter cooler Charge Air outlet hose (Left side of car)
Was hard to see it at first since it is down low in the engine compartment but after gently pinching the hose, it was obvious that
the charge air from turbo/Intercooler was bleeding off pressure and was causing the MAF sensor to throw a code as well.

Going to install the Inter cooler Charge Air hose tonight and I am 110% sure this will resolve issue.

Just thought I would let others know...... start with the basics when trouble shooting CEL codes.......
$120 Charge Hose versus a $330 MAF sensor is easier to swallow. Just goes to show you that when reading codes on a newer
vehicle, try not to over think things and look for obvious signs as well.
over think things and

formerjeepguy

I think this is the third case of a torn inter-cooler hose that I have read about here in the last month. It makes me wonder how many of them we don't hear about.

flintflyer

I had the same issue in my W212 2014 E250 Bluetec Diesel with 83,000 miles.

First symptoms 2 months ago was the car occasionally would not go or stay in 7th gear but no codes and no loss of power. About 2 weeks ago I started to notice this happening more often and only after the car was running for awhile. Eventually on a trip to the mountains we got a CEL and codes P0101, P0171 and P0299. I took it to my local MB mechanic and he suspected the MAF. He recommended further testing at the MB dealership. They initially looked at the codes and just replaced the MAF for $600. I drove it home and we had the exact same problem. I complained to the MB Service manager. He had two of his guys work on it, they credited me the MAF- $316 and they found a 1 inch split in the Charge Air Hose (212-528-00-00) from the Intercooler to the engine, cost $128.

Five total trips to my mechanic and the dealership and untold amount of hours. If you have multiple codes, make sure to look beyond the sensors, they are a symptom not the cause.

mysterysi

Thank you. I have the cel on 3 weeks ago. Bought an obd2 reader. Got code 0101 and 0299. Found this thread. Found a split in the charger pipe. Replaced it in 60 mins. The car is back to normal.

Million thanks

andreigbs

Common occurrence on these Bluetecs apparently. There was a guy a few weeks back who was being told he had "a bad turbo" that the mechanic would be willing to replace for a measly $3K+. Turned out to be the $120 charge air hose instead.

Sensors don't really just go bad by themselves; they're there to inform you something is going on, which is setting the error codes. Fixing the real issue (in this case, the busted hose) brings everything back to normal.

Thanks to the OP for documenting his experience, as I'm sure it will help others when the time comes.

Happy dieseling!

Vonda's GLK

My wife was heading down to Orlando from Panama City last week. When she got to Tallahassee, she commented that she didn't have much power and when she got on I-75, the car wouldn't go over 80-85 mph (slow lane traffic..) Anyway, she said there was no check engine light on (actually it was, her sunglasses was covering it). Got to Orlando, she remembered I had purchased a scan tool and was in glovebox, she plugged it in and got the MAF code and Turbo underboost code. Drove it back on Saturday. By then I had already used this great forum and had an idea that it was most likely a split in the charge hose (ordered from Nashville MB for $88) When she got home I verified that it was a split in the hose, about an inch and a half long, on top of the hose. While I am waiting on the new hose to arrive, I cleaned the hose with carb cleaner, mixed up a dab of 2-part epoxy($5 @ O'Reilly Auto Parts), spread it on liberally and let it set up overnight and reset the code. Woke up this morning, she had driven it to the gym and back before work, no codes, plenty of power, so I double check my 2-part epoxy repair and everything is holding great! I will replace the hose when it comes in, but, for all GLK 250 owners, be aware that this is a very easy temp fix for this seemingly all too common problem. Her car has only 57k miles, btw. So, WATCH OUT for scammer dealers or even independents that tell you that you need $3000 worth of turbos without even opening the hood. These cars are tough (well, except for the charge hose, apparently) and the turbos should last quite a long time.

Cheers, Al

andreigbs

They're tough indeed, until it comes to the emissions treatment system. That is a slippery slope into poverty and depression if you don't get the right diagnosis and part(s) replaced the first time.

Those of you with Bluetecs less than 8 years old and under 80K miles, remember that there is a federally mandated emissions system warranty that does not expire along with your typical CPO warranty. (See 2nd drop down FAQ on Clean Air Act here).

Many components are covered, so make sure if you have an emissions system fault that you are aware of this warranty. Most dealers won't bother mentioning it.

Edit: the above warranty applies to all cars, not just Bluetecs; I specifically mention these because they are notorious for emissions system woes.

formerjeepguy

Nice temporary fix. I would have used a few wraps of duct tape, but your fix should hold a few days until the new hose arrives.

dofdear

Ken, I just received the same symptoms, codes and CEL. I suspect the same solution will work for me as well. Could you please provide the MB Part Number for the Charge Hose you replaced. Thanks in advance. Dan C

xbzus

Hi, I too have the same issue. Can the hose be replaced from from the top or should the bottom cover be removed to access the hose? Approx how many hours did it take?

Thanks

mysterysi

I replaced from the bottom.

xbzus

Thanks for the quick response. I don't have the tools to raise the car. Will it be possible to reach the hose from the top and replace it?

dofdear

I did mine from the bottom and did remove both of the front 2 lower pansh to access the intercooler and engine connections properly. If you can get both pans off without jacking you will be okay. Otherwise lift and block both front tires say 6 - 9 inches for additional clearance. I doubt you can get the clips off from the top plus you would be working blind.
Here is a set of drive ons from Amazon. There are others The whole job took less than 30 minutes. It was helpful for me to play with the hose clips so there was an understanding of how they worked. Made the job go that much faster. Also, rub some engine oil on the hose connection internal o-ring for a good seal and longer o-ring life. Cheers,

dofdear

xbzus

Thanks

Turbotee

You wouldn't happen to have the part number for the charger hose, would you? I have the exact same issues. Thanks

srb1194

https://mbworld.org/forums/showthrea...96#post7633296

Check this thread. Should have what you need.

srb1194

For what it's worth it was very easy for me. Didn't need a ramp. Just slid under there, removed the pan and presto. Very gratifying experience.

dofdear

The part number for the drivers side is 204-528-00-00. BB

redcs37

Ken,

Thank you. I had the P0101 and P0299 codes as well and found a crack in the inter cooler charge hose on the seam.

2014 GLK250 with 89K miles

Dave

redcs37

This was a pretty easy fix if you can lift the front end with ramps and take off the front plastic cover. Even a 6 inch lift made everything easy to reach. The crack in the hose was pretty small, just a couple of inches.

One additional symptom I noticed. When I noticed the loss of power initially, the power actually got worse as I pushed the accelerator toward the floor. Backing off on the accelerator and the power actually picked up a bit.

It is good to have some torque back!

Flo109

I had the same problem with the intercooler hose, indeed they should issue a recall for these, most get cracks around 50k miles. Just replaced on my glk250.

Flo109

However the "check engine" light is still on after replacing the intercooler hose , how do I reset that?

formerjeepguy

Most code readers also have the ability to clear the codes that triggered the CEL. If you clear the codes and the light comes back on there is still a problem.

Flo109

Thank you Jeep guy, I'll get a reader and delete it

vinglk

Hi guys
Thank-you to all those who post their experiences on this forum . My 2015 GLK 250 ( 50k miles on it ) had a loss of power and a check engine light went on while I was on a 6 hour trip. The next day I went to autozone to pull the code and it was P0101 . Autozone does not remove the check engine light for liability purposes , Autozone's diagnostic tool did not show any parts to repair the problem , it just said Mas Air Fow problem .The power came back and the check engine light went off after a few starts . It drives perfectly now and I've had no issues for the 400 mile trip back home . I will inspect the hoses as per the problems with the forum members have had . Does the Mass Air Flow need to be cleaned or is there a bigger issue ?
Thank-you in advance