Transmission Fluid and Filter Service Time
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Transmission Fluid and Filter Service Time
Hello Guys,
I have a 2010 GLK 350 4Matic and she has 133K on the dash. She needs the tranny fluid and filter service done. From what I see the process is pretty simple but I have a few questions.
1. Who and where should I buy the kit from? Don’t want to buy inferior parts (don’t want to be raked over the coals either).
2. How long does the gasket take to seal so I don’t have leakage?
3. Would it be best to add permatex to the gasket?
4. Should I replace the mechatronics sleeve while I have the tranny fluid pan down?
That’s it and thanks in advance!
I have a 2010 GLK 350 4Matic and she has 133K on the dash. She needs the tranny fluid and filter service done. From what I see the process is pretty simple but I have a few questions.
1. Who and where should I buy the kit from? Don’t want to buy inferior parts (don’t want to be raked over the coals either).
2. How long does the gasket take to seal so I don’t have leakage?
3. Would it be best to add permatex to the gasket?
4. Should I replace the mechatronics sleeve while I have the tranny fluid pan down?
That’s it and thanks in advance!
#2
Super Member
1.) FCPEuro or your nearest Mercedes-Benz Dealer
2.) The gasket for the transmission pan is not reusable once torqued to spec.
3.) Do not do that
4.) yes
2.) The gasket for the transmission pan is not reusable once torqued to spec.
3.) Do not do that
4.) yes
#3
Junior Member
I get the kit from idparts, and pay a bit extra for the Fuchs oil and oem filter. I just follow the WIS, except I use a IR temp gun to check for correct temp when draining the extra fluid. Wanted to try out the transmission temp guage on the Torque app last time but forgot, maybe thats a bit more accurate.
#5
Junior Member
#7
Junior Member
I know Pelican parts has a good write up for the w204, only differences I noticed was that on my 2010 Glk 4matic, the crankcase pulley uses a 27 socket and the TC plug is 4mm. You have to use a long 4mm straight hex to torque it down, it's a soft metal so I stripped it once with a ball hex. One of the E10 bolts on my pan is obstructed slightly by the transmition mount bracket, it doesn't require me to remove the bracket but I do have to use an extention on a slight angle, and extra care not to strip that screw when torqing it down.
I also replaced my transmission pan last time I changed it, there was some rust developing around the drain hole area, didn't want to risk a leak. Although this car is pretty good regarding rust, that and the rear spring coil are the only issues I've had with rust over the 10 years, and we get alot of road salt here in the winter.
I also replaced my transmission pan last time I changed it, there was some rust developing around the drain hole area, didn't want to risk a leak. Although this car is pretty good regarding rust, that and the rear spring coil are the only issues I've had with rust over the 10 years, and we get alot of road salt here in the winter.
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#8
Newbie
Thread Starter
Thanks.. I am going to get the kit from them on Monday.. They have to kits for my truck one is $80 and the other is $153 I plan to get the higher one but I want to know what’s the difference between using liqui moly vs pentosin?
Last edited by Yobuaa; 12-08-2018 at 01:38 PM.
#11
Newbie
Thread Starter
IF you are pulling more than 6 liters from the tranny and the TC combined, why they only give 6 liters in the average kit?
Should I have at least 8-9 liters?
Next, considering how soft the TC drain plugs are should I get another one?
I should get another brass ring gasket for the TC plug too?
Do I really need a temperature gauge for the transmission for this change?
I am seeing a lot scuttlebutt on this subject..
Not being **** but I want to do this procedure right the first time as I want my car to run as best as it can for years to come.
#12
Newbie
Thread Starter
Thanks.. I am going to get the kit from them on Monday.. They have to kits for my truck one is $80 and the other is $153 I plan to get the higher one but I want to know what’s the difference between using liqui moly vs pentosin?
#13
Junior Member
Make sure you use the right kit, my early 722.9 transmission uses the red fluid, my kit came with 10 L, this is the exact kit I use
https://www.idparts.com/automatic-transmission-service-kit-23614-fluid-mercedes-speed-7229-early-p-3727.html plus I get the new fluid guide tube for $3
If it's your first time doing it, read through this thread, lots ot useful info there. You will need a way to measure the fluid temp, such as a temp gun, you need a fluid pump and the specific adaptor for the 722.9 tansmition
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w203/365242-diy-722-9-7g-tronic-7-speed-automatic-transmission-service-thread.html
https://www.idparts.com/automatic-transmission-service-kit-23614-fluid-mercedes-speed-7229-early-p-3727.html plus I get the new fluid guide tube for $3
If it's your first time doing it, read through this thread, lots ot useful info there. You will need a way to measure the fluid temp, such as a temp gun, you need a fluid pump and the specific adaptor for the 722.9 tansmition
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w203/365242-diy-722-9-7g-tronic-7-speed-automatic-transmission-service-thread.html
#14
Member
Copied from another post. Referring to the sump and filter removal.
"Because it's a waste of time. If you take apart a transmission filter you'll see that it's little more than a glorified mesh screen to catch the larger chunks. The only way for it to clog up is if your transmission has already self destructed. Save dropping the pan for when the conductor plate or a solenoid fails."
Makes me wonder now. Should I just suck the oil out the dipstick. Refill, pull the top oil hose on radiator connect a hose to this and start engine a few seconds top up again and continue this process till clean fluid appears. Run engine till appropriate temrature 80deg. Check oil level and add (or remove) as necessary.
Makes me wonder now. Should I just suck the oil out the dipstick. Refill, pull the top oil hose on radiator connect a hose to this and start engine a few seconds top up again and continue this process till clean fluid appears. Run engine till appropriate temrature 80deg. Check oil level and add (or remove) as necessary.
#15
Senior Member
you have to drop the pan, because to get the fluid out you need to knock the stand pipe loose, then reinstall the stand-pipe.
you do not have a transmission fluid dipstick.
you cannot remove the fluid and re-install the same quantity, you have to overfill, drain down at the correct temp, and seal when the flow meets the MB rate in the book (ridiculous i know).
you do not have a transmission fluid dipstick.
you cannot remove the fluid and re-install the same quantity, you have to overfill, drain down at the correct temp, and seal when the flow meets the MB rate in the book (ridiculous i know).
#16
Newbie
Thread Starter
Make sure you use the right kit, my early 722.9 transmission uses the red fluid, my kit came with 10 L, this is the exact kit I use
https://www.idparts.com/automatic-transmission-service-kit-23614-fluid-mercedes-speed-7229-early-p-3727.html plus I get the new fluid guide tube for $3
If it's your first time doing it, read through this thread, lots ot useful info there. You will need a way to measure the fluid temp, such as a temp gun, you need a fluid pump and the specific adaptor for the 722.9 tansmition
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w203/365242-diy-722-9-7g-tronic-7-speed-automatic-transmission-service-thread.html
https://www.idparts.com/automatic-transmission-service-kit-23614-fluid-mercedes-speed-7229-early-p-3727.html plus I get the new fluid guide tube for $3
If it's your first time doing it, read through this thread, lots ot useful info there. You will need a way to measure the fluid temp, such as a temp gun, you need a fluid pump and the specific adaptor for the 722.9 tansmition
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w203/365242-diy-722-9-7g-tronic-7-speed-automatic-transmission-service-thread.html
#17
#19
Thanks so much! Looks like cheap insurance to put one in, while I have everything apart. Thank you!
ETA - wait, are these for 722.6 only, or for 722.9 as well? Mine is a 722.9.
ETA - wait, are these for 722.6 only, or for 722.9 as well? Mine is a 722.9.
Last edited by lyonkster; 12-12-2018 at 02:00 PM.
#20
Member
If there is a dipstick and you are worried about the soft drain plug. Suck the oil out through the dipstick then you can drop the pan to clean and put in new filter.
#21
Newbie
Thread Starter
UPDATE
Just finished my service today and it went really well.. took about 4hrs to complete.. Tranny shifts like new.. Drained Tranny and TC and yes that TC holds a lot of fluid.. Pumped about 8liters back in after all was said and done..
If you have a GLK make sure to be ready to secure the tranny because it will require removal of the tranny mounting bracket.
Be sure to keep wiping the fluid from the rear of the tranny case. I had a leak there and was probably due to last person that did the service neglected to clean that area. Fluid will keep pooling there..
Side note: my TC drain plug was at the bottom so I did not have to turn harmonic balance.
Don’t bump start the motor to turn the TC do it the right way.
MOST IMPORTANTLY...
DRAIN THE TORQUE CONVERTER!!! I DONT CARE WHAT ANYONE SAYS! Most of the tranny fluid is in there.
Thanks to everyone who helped me along with this service..
If you have a GLK make sure to be ready to secure the tranny because it will require removal of the tranny mounting bracket.
Be sure to keep wiping the fluid from the rear of the tranny case. I had a leak there and was probably due to last person that did the service neglected to clean that area. Fluid will keep pooling there..
Side note: my TC drain plug was at the bottom so I did not have to turn harmonic balance.
Don’t bump start the motor to turn the TC do it the right way.
MOST IMPORTANTLY...
DRAIN THE TORQUE CONVERTER!!! I DONT CARE WHAT ANYONE SAYS! Most of the tranny fluid is in there.
Thanks to everyone who helped me along with this service..
#22
Senior Member
I feel like the whole procedure is pretty methodical, with the exception of setting it to the correct level by draining it back out, how did that part go?
Last edited by B737; 12-22-2018 at 10:27 AM.
#23
Newbie
Thread Starter
add 1/2 liter, pull the nozzle and if fluid pushes back out then you are done. You should use about 7.5-8 liters of fluid..
The following users liked this post:
B737 (12-22-2018)
#25
Senior Member
Just wanted to follow up here. We did our third 722.9 transmission service today. First one was a C-class two or so years ago. Today we did 2010 GLK 350 and then my 2012 GLK 350. In the 2010 we also did front and rear diff fluids. The 2010 had been serviced at the dealer before and had 91,000 miles. My 2012 had never been serviced, at 50,000 miles it was well over due. The both trucks drive exactly the same way they did before nice and smooth. The 2010 was completed in about 4 hours. When we did my truck, we had the entire service done in under 2 hours.
In the 2010 we removed 8.75 liters (including TQ), added 6 and 3, when the correct flow rate was reached, it ended up draining out .5L. Net 8.5. We wondered if this was slightly overfilled during its last service at the dealer.
For the 2012 we removed 8.25 liters (including TQ), added 6 and 3 liters, and when the flow rate was reached, it ended up draining .75 liters. Net 8.25
We used carsoft i980 to read temperature from the transmission. For filling used Motive PowerFill with shut off valve on the adapter. The kits we used were available from ECS Tuning, complete with everything you need, all from Mercedes. FCP euro did not have a kit from the dealer, they only had an aftermarket kit (which was about 50% cheaper). My 2012 used blue fluid kit and the 2010 used red fluid kit.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-.../2222772000kt/
Once you get it down pat it's really pretty simple to get this done, I think the forum sometimes cracks it up to be worse than it actually is. Draining the TQ is a must. Next time I service the transmission on my truck I am going to replace the pan with a new one. I could see some areas under the paint starting to blister.
this thread was the biggest help, all you need is here in the first post.
In the 2010 we removed 8.75 liters (including TQ), added 6 and 3, when the correct flow rate was reached, it ended up draining out .5L. Net 8.5. We wondered if this was slightly overfilled during its last service at the dealer.
For the 2012 we removed 8.25 liters (including TQ), added 6 and 3 liters, and when the flow rate was reached, it ended up draining .75 liters. Net 8.25
We used carsoft i980 to read temperature from the transmission. For filling used Motive PowerFill with shut off valve on the adapter. The kits we used were available from ECS Tuning, complete with everything you need, all from Mercedes. FCP euro did not have a kit from the dealer, they only had an aftermarket kit (which was about 50% cheaper). My 2012 used blue fluid kit and the 2010 used red fluid kit.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-.../2222772000kt/
Once you get it down pat it's really pretty simple to get this done, I think the forum sometimes cracks it up to be worse than it actually is. Draining the TQ is a must. Next time I service the transmission on my truck I am going to replace the pan with a new one. I could see some areas under the paint starting to blister.
this thread was the biggest help, all you need is here in the first post.
Last edited by B737; 01-27-2019 at 10:59 PM.
The following users liked this post:
lyonkster (01-28-2019)